Front wheel bearing removal

[Rickrod3]

Saw a thread by Big Dick but I couldn't understand what Skids was explaining. Sorry so I have to ask it again.

Have both seals off and the pieces for the speedo gear out.
And have tried to drive the bearings out.
I'm afraid to hit too hard since I'm not sure which way are they supposed to come out?
Does each bearing have to come out its respective side or can the both be driven out from one side?
If so which one?
I get a bad feeling when I'm pounding on something and not sure how something is suppose to happen.

Tia
Rick

[XS1100 Newbie]

You first need to take a prybar of some sort and pry the right side of the spacer in side the hub over. The side opposite the speedo will move off to the side. This allows you to get to the race of the bearing to drive it out. The remove the spacer, and drive out the other side.

[blue giant]

XS1100 Newbie has it right. Place the wheel on a solid block of wood so you don't damage the rim. It will take a good bang to pop them out. If you can use a bit of heat around the outer portion of the rim where the bearing sits it might help. I remember thinking the same thing, something is gonna break but be persistant! An overnight soak with penetrating oil between the bearing and rim might help as well.

[Rickrod3]

spacer wiggles

Spacer wiggles but won't slide over.
I'm starting to feel pathetic.

Rick

[DiverRay]

Use a THIN, LONG punch on it. Once you have one side moving just a little, the spacer will be out of the way. You CAN use the punch on the center of the bearing if you are going to replace it. If you are NOT going to replace the bearing, DO NOT REMOVE IT.

[Rickrod3]

Thanks will give it try in the AM.
Maybe I'll see it in a different light

Rick

[randy]

Alternate your hits either side so as not to cock the bearing in the bore or it will get stuck DAMHIK

[Rickrod3]

Eating the elephant

Thanks to you guys I took another bite of the elephant.
The manual is a little misleading.
It gave me the impression that I would be able to remove them clean and repack them.
Oh well new front wheel bearings on a bike with 34k that sat for 26 years really doesn't take much to Justify.
Especially since their cost isn't bank breaking.
I read some of you have gotten them locally.
Does anyone have a part # the auto parts might be able to cross. I'm thinking the Yamaha #'s won't mean anything.

Rick

[randy]

The number is on the bearing they are common numbers any parts store can cross-ref them

[Rickrod3]

Thanks Randy
BTW nice site

Rick

[Schming]

Repack...

them by carefully ,with a small drill bit, drill a hole in the seal of the bearing. Better if You use a hand drill so you can feel what Your doing and don't go too deep. Then use a needle tip on a grease gun and lube away! Also spin the wheel as You lube so grease is distributed evenly. HTH

[trbig]

The bearings I got were from a local bearing shop.. and yes they were quite common. I think I gave $5.50 a piece? One side of the bearings I had didn't have a dust shield.. just open bearings. Even if you have the shield on them, you can pack them well just forcing grease through the small crack between the shield and the outer race... but you can also drill the hole as mentioned.

If you have a grinder of some sort, take one of your old bearings and spin it slowly while grinding it evenly on the outside of the race until it slips easily in and out of the wheel hub. When you get the new bearing, set it in place in the hub, and use this old bearing... hitting it with a hammer to drive in the new bearing. Don't forget to install that spacer in the middle before putting on the second bearing..


Tod

[Rickrod3]

Good Tip TR.

Using the old one as the tool to drive the new ones in.
I was going back in forth with my sockets must have tried the same ones a few times in disbelief that non of the fit quite right.
The old one is sure to be an exact fit.

Rick

[randy]

Rick,

Also helps to put the new bearings in the freezer overnight. Install them while still 'frozen ', they slip in real easy-like!

[CatatonicBug]

Also helps to put the new bearings in the freezer overnight. Install them while still 'frozen ', they slip in real easy-like!

Maybe that's why I was having such a hard time getting mine OUT! I was attempting it while the temps outside had been below freezing all week, so botht he bearing and the wheel were frozen!

The manual is a little misleading.
It gave me the impression that I would be able to remove them clean and repack them.

I'm concerned about Rickrod's statement about the bearings not being repackable. I gave up on mine and decided to come back to it later, but are you saying that I can't re-pack the stock bearings? Not that $11 for 2 new bearings is expensive, but the manual says I can do it for free. It looked like I could see the actual balls in the bearing once I took the dust shield off the outside. I figured that once I got them to come out, I could easily clean and repack them.