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AM I ****ED? ehaust head bolts.....

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  • #16
    Stud extractors work great if there's enough sticking out to get a good grip on. I've several that I use from time to time.

    But on short, already damaged ones, they have the tendancy to chew away at what's left until you can't even get a pair of vicegrips on the remains. They're really designed to install/remove studs without boogering them up (or at least that's the theory). I'll go to the vicegrips right away while there's still as much meat as possible. Sure, the vicegrips will ruin the stud, but I'm replacing it anyway....

    As Larry said, you should observe safety precautions with an open flame.

    '78E original owner
    Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

    '78E original owner - resto project
    '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
    '82 XJ rebuild project
    '80SG restified, red SOLD
    '79F parts...
    '81H more parts...

    Other current bikes:
    '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
    '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
    '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
    Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
    Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

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    • #17
      All good suggestions.
      My .02 worth, spray it with pb blaster and let it sit for a little while, then use vise grips to turn it a little.

      If it turns pretty freely(it probably will),then just unscrew it.

      If it is hard to turn, turn it back the other way a little.
      Then work it back and forth going a little further each cycle.Also, I would spray a little more pb blaster on it every few turns.
      80 SG XS1100
      14 Victory Cross Country

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      • #18
        Both

        Ivan and Larry beat me to it.

        That's the fella I was talking about.

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        • #19
          Jat...

          Soak the studs with PB twice-mig weld a nut on the stud-heat from the weld will aid in the capillary action of the PB-after the studs semi-cool soak again with PB-when cool enough to touch try ever so slightly to tighten to crack the bond between the two dissimiliar metals-then try to loosen very carefully working back and forth-by all means practice patience and Good Luck! HTH
          1980 XS1100G "Dolly G" Full Dresser (with a coat of many colors )
          1979 XS1100SF (stock-euro mods planned)
          1984 XV700L Virago (to be hot-modded)
          1983 XJ750MK Midnight Maxim (semi-restored DD)
          1977 XS650D ( patiently awaiting resto)

          Sometimes it takes a whole tank of gas before you can think straight.

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