AM I ****ED? ehaust head bolts.....

[tbcfreerider]

so i pulled the exhaust off to clean and paint, when i did it looks like nuts were not put on straight by a PO, THEY ARE ****ED! here is a pic, basically 3 of them are like this, this being the worst.... any thoughts?


http://www.flickr.com/photos/johnnycoffin/4319677829/

[joceiphus]

Drill it, and tap it.

[tbcfreerider]

those are in the engine head, it didnt break... a nut goes on there! so your thinking of trying to back those out and ge a reg bolt to go straight to the engine head?

[crazy steve]

Time for a new stud. Replace the nuts too.

These are replaceable, the only trick is getting it out of the head without breaking it off. Even then all is not lost.

Try double-nutting it to get it out, or a pair of vice-grips. If stubborn, apply some heat with a propane torch to the aluminum it threads into until it comes loose. Work slowly and carefully.

Replacements should be available at most parts houses or industrial bolt suppliers. Take a dead one with you to match; they're not going to have a listing for a Yamaha...

'78E original owner

[bikerphil]

I've bought those metric studs before at Ace hardware. Soak 'em with PB Blaster before trying to remove your old ones.

[Larrym]

Don't ya just hate it when..

Congratulations. This is what mechanics have to deal with on a day-to-day basis. It's not fatal...just not gonna be that easy task we'd all wish it to be.

First, find a friend who has a tool like this in his tool box:



It's called a stud extractor and it sells for around $30-40. Better to borrow it than buy it if you have to.

While double nutting the studs may work it may also not work and then the threads are stripped anyways. Also if any if the stud breaks off you're in for ten miles of bad road.

Soak the studs with PB blaster or a real penetrant...then WAIT 24 hours for the chemicals to do their job. I'd use a propane torch on all the studs anyways because it's the best way to ensure they don't break off. Then use the stud extractor. I'd also remove/replace all the studs at this time then use loc-tite on the new ones.

Kinda sucks when this happens but the buck stops here at you and your actions at this point can ruin things or put things back on the right track.

[tbcfreerider]

well... is it better to drop off at the local sop up the road?, i planned on having them do some other work anyways...

[Larrym]

Lions..Tigers...and Bears. Oh My!!

If you haven't ever done this type of removal/repair then I'd say. "Yes."

The danger/consequences of breaking off studs and making things worse is absolutely real. Plus the shop should be set up with the right tools, parts, and safety equipment.

It'll cost ya $$$. But then you'll be out of the woods.

Get an estimate for removal/replacement of all studs/hardware. Make'em stick to it also.

[79XS11F]

Use the stud extractor after applying heat and penetrating oil. Heat - spray - cool off - heat - spray - cool off. Tap on them straight down their length, not sideways with a light hammer from time to time and then use the extractor. Try not to break them puppies off or the real fun will begin.
Rob

[DGXSER]

On my project bike, more than half of the studs came out of the engine as opposed to the nut coming off the stud. So it seems to me that these studs are mcuh more likely to come out than to bust off. Auto heads, they tend to snap off ALOT more often than the nut comes off.

[Bigge_al]

stud extractor

A dishonest way would be to go buy the extractor then use it then return it. I think that you should be able to remove them save the shop experience for more complex task.

[Incubus]

Extractors like that are less than $10 at Harbor freight.

Patrick

[Ivan]

Congratulations. This is what mechanics have to deal with on a day-to-day basis. It's not fatal...just not gonna be that easy task we'd all wish it to be.

First, find a friend who has a tool like this in his tool box:



It's called a stud extractor and it sells for around $30-40. Better to borrow it than buy it if you have to.

While double nutting the studs may work it may also not work and then the threads are stripped anyways. Also if any if the stud breaks off you're in for ten miles of bad road.

Soak the studs with PB blaster or a real penetrant...then WAIT 24 hours for the chemicals to do their job. I'd use a propane torch on all the studs anyways because it's the best way to ensure they don't break off. Then use the stud extractor. I'd also remove/replace all the studs at this time then use loc-tite on the new ones.

Kinda sucks when this happens but the buck stops here at you and your actions at this point can ruin things or put things back on the right track.

Those are great, but have a look at these:



Only work on one size stud, but works to install as well as remove. Best thing for chevy water pump studs, which were 5/16 and our exhaust studs are 8mm. The .003 difference won't matter. Also, don't use power tools on it, cause the vibration won't let it work.

I am guessing, by the pictures someone tried to put a 5/16 nut on a 8mm stud. Common mistake. Usually having a warm engine helps loosen the stud in the thread. When you get it sorted, use anti-seize on the threads and snug (no need to call Charles Atlas to wrench them down) when the engine is hot. They won't come loose and wont get stuck again.

[XSokieSPECIAL]

so i pulled the exhaust off to clean and paint, when i did it looks like nuts were not put on straight by a PO, THEY ARE ****ED! here is a pic, basically 3 of them are like this, this being the worst.... any thoughts?


http://www.flickr.com/photos/johnnycoffin/4319677829/

I had the same problem when I got my 11.

I tried the double nut thing but there wasn't good enough threads and the stud removal tool Larry showed but it was too large to fit where I needed it.

(Not necessarily a problem I've really ever had.)

Mac Tools makes a stud removal/install tool that has rollers like a one way clutch that works really well.

I tried to find a pic of it but was unsuccessful.

It is about the size of a regular socket and works like a champ.

I will get the tool # and give it to you when I get back to the shop if you need. It saved my a$$.

Maybe someone else here can help with a pic or part #.

Y'all know what I'm talkin' about.

[Larrym]

L'est We Forget

Yeah...sometimes they almost fall out by themselves and then other times:



Just takes one of them to snap off and things get complicated: broken extractors, left hand drill bits, heli-coils, metal shavings everywhere.

I'm usually on the "Go For It!" side of DIY/Repair but in this case the use of a propane torch would be helpful. I've been trained in how to use any type of torch safely/successfully and would take the standard precautions like removing the fuel tank, having a fire extinguisher/water spray bottle ready to go, working outside the garage, etc. If tbcfreerider has the prior experience and feels confident that he could safely pull this rabbit out of the hat, then by all means I'd encourage him to try. Otherwise I'd refer all of us back to the beginning of the repair manuals for our bikes where the authors say things like SAFETY FIRST and provide the definition/reasons they include terms like: NOTE..., CAUTION..., and WARNING.

Jeez Ivan!



You're giving me an inferiority complex about my cheap tools.