Help with front MC rebuild

[Rickrod3]

http://s910.photobucket.com/albums/a...=1264885799582

The above link is pic of my replacement parts.
As best I can recall that is the way the old parts were installed.
does this look right?

I have a question about an additional part pictured in the following link
http://s910.photobucket.com/albums/a...t=IMG00021.jpg

The parts blow up in the manuals show additional washers in between the spring and the plunger.

Are they needed they did not come in the kit.
http://www.benefiscal.co.uk/imagine....fichname=FRONT MASTER CYLINDER

Can any one verify the correct sequence of the part replacement?

Tia
Rick

[rpgoerlich]

The parts are in the correct order with the cup at the botom of the pic being in between the spring and the piston.

That cup should have been in the kit.

http://s910.photobucket.com/albums/a...=1264885799582

The above link is pic of my replacement parts.
As best I can recall that is the way the old parts were installed.
does this look right?

I have a question about an additional part pictured in the following link
http://s910.photobucket.com/albums/a...t=IMG00021.jpg

The parts blow up in the manuals show additional washers in between the spring and the plunger.

Are they needed they did not come in the kit.
http://www.benefiscal.co.uk/imagine....fichname=FRONT MASTER CYLINDER

Can any one verify the correct sequence of the part replacement?

Tia
Rick

[Rickrod3]

Cup installation?

which way does the cup face?
open part toward plunger or spring?

Rick

[Larrym]

Piece of cup..cake

which way does the cup face?
open part toward plunger or spring?

Rick

The cup goes with the open side towards the spring. This way the edges of the cup expand outwards to seal against the side of the bore when applying pressure to the fluid.

Speaking of fluid...brake fluid. Be sure to lube all those "rubber" parts with clean brake fluid prior to installing them.

[wa407mpp]

You will also need to lightly hone the cylinder bore to take the glaze off the cylinder walls, so that new rubber puck can seal properly. For a hone you can use a small wooden dowel with a grove sawed in the end to hold a piece of very fine emery paper doubled over 3 times and sticking out the sides enough to lightly contact the cylinder walls. A variable speed drill driver works good for this, because you only want to hone enough to remove the glaze. Remember don't get too aggressive go slow and light.

[Rickrod3]

Thanks Again Guys

I'm satisfied I got the master cylinder properly put back together.
Giving it a coat of paint, and moving on.
I'm anxious to get the bike to where I can take a test ride.
Debating about trying it out with the original brake lines. I know once I'm riding it regularly they need to go. Have to buy tires and check the forks. How common is it to need fork seals?
chime in with any suggestions.

Thanks Again
Rick

[tarzan]

I have the original brake lines on mine and it stops fine.That doesn't mean
that they aren't breaking down inside.They have to be at this age.
I would however disassemble the calipers and clean and reassemble with
new brake fluid.OH, and make sure you get all the old fluid and any crap out of the lines while you have it apart.Then bleed the brakes and it should work.
I agree with you that it's a good idea to replace the lines as soon as reasonably possible though.
Rick

[bikerphil]

How common is it to need fork seals?

Either they leak, or they don't. If you're disassembling the forks to clean the crap out that accumulates in the bottom after many years, then by all means replace them. Some swear by genuine Yamaha seals. IMHO, unless you're running air, they aren't necessary. Parts Unlimited seals work just fine for $9 a pair. Just stay away from the ones on eBay in the green package. I've heard some bad things about them. Be careful you don't accidentally order the seals for the Special, they are a different size. The correct size for a Standard model is 37X49X8. HTH