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Speedometer cable won't go back in!

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  • Speedometer cable won't go back in!

    I got a squeeking sound this last week, coming from the front wheel. So, since I have never torn into the speedo or the wheel bearings, I decided to take a crack at it.

    Having read a post a couple of days ago about how to remove and lube the speedo cable, I figured that would be a sinch! NOT! I got it out just fine, lubed it up really good, and got it ALMOST all the way back in. IT won't go in the last 2 inches! Any tips or tricks to getting it in the rest of the way? I tried using a drill to spin it into place, but that didn't work. I tried sticking a piece of all-thread up into the other end to convince it that it was ok to come out that end - That didn't work either.

    What can I do to get it to go all the way through?
    Last edited by CatatonicBug; 01-27-2010, 09:53 PM.
    1980 XS850SG - Sold
    1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special (Sold) - purchased 9/29/08
    Fully Vetterized and Dynojet Kit added, Heated Grips, Truck-Lite LED headlight, Accel Coils, Irridium plugs, TKAT Fork Brace, XS850LH Final Drive & Black SS Brake lines from Chacal.
    Here's my web page devoted to my bike! XS/XJ User's Manuals there, and the XJ1100 Service Manual and both XS1100 Service manuals (free download!).

    Whether you think you can, or you think you cannot - You're right.
    -H. Ford

  • #2
    Run a piece of fine wire up from the other end, and tape it to the cable. It will help convince it to go on through. Just like pulling wire through conduit.
    1980 XS1100LG Midnight
    1991 Honda CBR1000F Hurricane


    "The hand is almost valueless at one end of the arm if there be not a brain at the other"

    Here's to a long life and a happy one.
    A quick death and an easy one.
    A pretty girl and an honest one.
    A cold beer and another one!

    Comment


    • #3
      I managed to get it back in. I removed the whole thing from the bike, and chucked up the end in a drill press. Then, while running the drill press, I wiggled the outer tube like crazy, right where the hang-up seemed to be. It finally slid right on.
      1980 XS850SG - Sold
      1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special (Sold) - purchased 9/29/08
      Fully Vetterized and Dynojet Kit added, Heated Grips, Truck-Lite LED headlight, Accel Coils, Irridium plugs, TKAT Fork Brace, XS850LH Final Drive & Black SS Brake lines from Chacal.
      Here's my web page devoted to my bike! XS/XJ User's Manuals there, and the XJ1100 Service Manual and both XS1100 Service manuals (free download!).

      Whether you think you can, or you think you cannot - You're right.
      -H. Ford

      Comment


      • #4
        Good job. Glad it went in.
        1980 XS1100LG Midnight
        1991 Honda CBR1000F Hurricane


        "The hand is almost valueless at one end of the arm if there be not a brain at the other"

        Here's to a long life and a happy one.
        A quick death and an easy one.
        A pretty girl and an honest one.
        A cold beer and another one!

        Comment


        • #5
          So NOW order the new cable! You have a problem with the sheath, and the cable WILL break sooner rather than later.DAMHIKIJK.
          Ray Matteis
          KE6NHG
          XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
          XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!

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          • #6
            Urban Legend??

            C-bug,

            "chucked up the end in a drill press."

            Then you connected it to the speedo, set the drill in reverse, turned it on, and left it running overnight??

            I've wondered if this trick works to turn back the odometer on our bikes....

            Probly too late to test this cause you've got it all back together. Maybe next year.....?

            Comment


            • #7
              I tend to agree with Ray, I took mine apart and coated with cabel lube, slid right back in smooth as a babies bottom. Something in your sheeth is loose or pinched to cause that much issue with getting it back in.
              Life is what happens while your planning everything else!

              When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.

              81 XS1100 Special - Humpty Dumpty
              80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection


              Previously owned
              93 GSX600F
              80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
              81 XS1100 Special
              81 CB750 C
              80 CB750 C
              78 XS750

              Comment


              • #8
                I've wondered if this trick works to turn back the odometer on our bikes....

                Yes it does work.. BUT.. at the speed of most drills, you're going to register @ 25-30 mph in reverse. So.. imagine you'd like to have ohhhh.. .say 10k miles off of the odometer. Just turn the drill on and leave it for... 333 hours, or nearly 14 days!


                Tod
                Try your hardest to be the kind of person your dog thinks you are.

                You can live to be 100, as long as you give up everything that would make you want to live to be 100!

                Current bikes:
                '06 Suzuki DR650
                *'82 XJ1100 with the 1179 kit. "Mad Maxim"
                '82 XJ1100 Completely stock fixer-upper
                '82 XJ1100 Bagger fixer-upper
                '82 XJ1100 Motor/frame and lots of boxes of parts
                '82 XJ1100 Parts bike
                '81 XS1100 Special
                '81 YZ250
                '80 XS850 Special
                '80 XR100
                *Crashed/Totalled, still own

                Comment


                • #9
                  From what you described, your cable sheath has kinked where it attaches to the fitting on the end near the wheel. If it didn't break the structural wire inside the sheath, you can straighten it out and then slide a piece of heat shrink over the joint to ensure weather proofing. If the core does end up breaking, thats an easy fix. New cores are available at auto parts stores, and you cut then to length and crimp the end on.

                  The best cable lube I have found is that crappy lubriplate grease that comes in a big tube that looks like a toothpaste tube. Its pretty worthless for anything else, since it dries out over time to a waxy consistency that plugs oil passeges and such, but that is exactly what you want to happen in a speedo cable.

                  Another thought. Spinning the core in a drill and putting force on it is just causing extraneous wear. Probably best to avoid that.
                  Ich habe dich nicht gefragt.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by DiverRay View Post
                    So NOW order the new cable! You have a problem with the sheath, and the cable WILL break sooner rather than later.DAMHIKIJK.
                    Yeah, you're probably right. The inner structure of the sheath is actually visible through a crack in the rubber shell right at that point. The inner structure isn't broken that I can see, but it definitely has some rust on it. I'll end up replacing it this year, I imagine.

                    I used the drill idea, because the cable itself is a coil, and spinning it literally screwed it down into the tube. It made insertion VERY smooth and easy. When adding pressure and spinning it, my hope was that it might be caught on something and it just needed a little convincing. Obviously, it's not supposed to get caught on anything, and that is indicative of some kind of problem. Hopefully it won't be a fatal problem any time in the immediate future.

                    I used the same synthetic grease I used on the speedo gears for the cable. I put on a glove, and scooped up some in my fingers and ran the cable through them. The speedo gears were REALLY nasty though. I cleaned them out with gasoline and a toothbrush, and they came out nice and pretty. Re-packed them with grease, and now there is no more squeaking.

                    I didn't take the wheel bearings out and re-pack those, as they didn't want to come out willingly, and it was getting late. I'll attack that some time in the spring when it's a bit warmer out. Perhaps it will be a task to accomplish at the MOTM rally!
                    Last edited by CatatonicBug; 01-28-2010, 10:43 AM.
                    1980 XS850SG - Sold
                    1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special (Sold) - purchased 9/29/08
                    Fully Vetterized and Dynojet Kit added, Heated Grips, Truck-Lite LED headlight, Accel Coils, Irridium plugs, TKAT Fork Brace, XS850LH Final Drive & Black SS Brake lines from Chacal.
                    Here's my web page devoted to my bike! XS/XJ User's Manuals there, and the XJ1100 Service Manual and both XS1100 Service manuals (free download!).

                    Whether you think you can, or you think you cannot - You're right.
                    -H. Ford

                    Comment

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