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  • Electrical question

    I'm needing some new plug wires before summer, so I'm considering using it as an excuse to upgrade to some new coils from Mike's XS. My questions is, would I be alright doing this without having the upgraded regulator/rectifier unit, or do I need to have this as well?

    Thanks,
    Spider
    1978 XS1100
    "Of all the adversaries I have faced, I was the worst."

  • #2
    not an expert, but i think.....

    upgraded regulator/rectifier unit?

    hmm, i must have missed that thread,
    i believe the guy's that are running the green coils are useing stock reg's...

    i could be wrong.
    the green coils shouldn't use more "juice" they just handle the juice differently.

    the way i understand coils is that they are modified/tuned capasitors.
    1979 XS1100SF Special.78 E motor/carbs, Jardine 4-2 exhaust, XS Green coils, Corbin seat, S.S. Brake lines, Hard cases, Heated grips.

    2012 FJR1300 Gen 2. Heli bar risers, R-gaza crash bars, mccruise cruise control.

    (2)2008 WR250R. Because kids outgrew others.

    2007 Suzuki V-Strom 1000. (Just added 2024) pre-crashed.

    1975 Kawasaki S1 250. My first bike. Still have it. NO I'm not selling it!!

    Most bike problems are caused by a loose nut connecting the handlebars and the seat!!

    Comment


    • #3
      I'm looking to get the black ones rather than the greens for the time being. And I think a member here makes the upgraded rectifiers. http://www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/Reg_rec_units.html

      I should probably not screw with stuff. The battery doesn't lose charge and it goes down the road(knock wood) But I've developed some popping/backfiring that I think might be related to wear on the wires.
      Last edited by Spider; 01-23-2010, 11:42 PM.
      1978 XS1100
      "Of all the adversaries I have faced, I was the worst."

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Spider View Post
        But I've developed some popping/backfiring that I think might be related to wear on the wires.
        If you haven't already, you might try what I just had to do today. Take the plug caps off the ends of the wires (just pull or twist), and cut off 1/2" of wire from each one, leaving a nice clean end. Re-attach the caps, and put it back on the plugs. I thought my left coil had died, but all I had to do was trim the wires, and it's running great again.
        1980 XS850SG - Sold
        1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special (Sold) - purchased 9/29/08
        Fully Vetterized and Dynojet Kit added, Heated Grips, Truck-Lite LED headlight, Accel Coils, Irridium plugs, TKAT Fork Brace, XS850LH Final Drive & Black SS Brake lines from Chacal.
        Here's my web page devoted to my bike! XS/XJ User's Manuals there, and the XJ1100 Service Manual and both XS1100 Service manuals (free download!).

        Whether you think you can, or you think you cannot - You're right.
        -H. Ford

        Comment


        • #5
          I think my coils are healthy*knock wood.* It's just on a couple of the wires, there's wear(looks almost like the first stage of dry-rot) on the outside rubber, and its right smack dab in the middle. If I cut above it, I'd not have enough left to reach.
          1978 XS1100
          "Of all the adversaries I have faced, I was the worst."

          Comment


          • #6
            Mikes black coils should work fine with NO other changes. Backfire while running MAY be from an exhaust leak, running lean, or the pick up coil wires. You will just need to find a place to start, and go from there.
            Ray Matteis
            KE6NHG
            XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
            XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!

            Comment


            • #7
              If the wires don't have good insulation they will crossfire when wet. Mine do, and I plan on going to MikeXS black coils soon (would like green, but they just don't fit into the budget right now).

              As for what coils are, they are transformers. They convert a low voltage to a high voltage, this is done by the pulse of voltage that is applied to the primary coils which in turn creates high voltage in the secondary coils with the moving magnetic field created by this pulse.

              The only thing the upgraded regulator/rectifier does AFAIK is to bring you up to full charging voltage at a lower RPM and last longer. When/if I need to change mine again I WILL go with the upgrade, and I probably will at some point anyways, but for now I'm getting good charging as is, and the MikesXS coils will not make any difference there.

              If you follow the writeup on putting those coils on it should work out fine. Just remember to bypass the ballast resistor if you have one, as those coils are 3 ohm vs the 1.5 ohm of the stock coils on the 1980 and earlier bikes.
              Cy

              1980 XS1100G (Brutus) w/81H Engine
              Duplicolor Mirage Paint Job (Purple/Green)
              Vetter Windjammer IV
              Vetter hard bags & Trunk
              OEM Luggage Rack
              Jardine Spaghetti 4-2 exhaust system
              Spade Fuse Box
              Turn Signal Auto Cancel Mod
              750 FD Mod
              TC Spin on Oil Filter Adapter (temp removed)
              XJ1100 Front Footpegs
              XJ1100 Shocks

              I was always taught to respect my elders, but it keeps getting harder to find one.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by DiverRay View Post
                Mikes black coils should work fine with NO other changes. Backfire while running MAY be from an exhaust leak, running lean, or the pick up coil wires. You will just need to find a place to start, and go from there.
                If it's still giving me issue after I replace the spark plug wires, then I'll run through the rest. Plug wires fit though. When I first got the bike? No problems.
                But it was nice and sunny and dry and had been garaged when not. Then it sat out at my place for a few weeks with rain and what not, and started getting the popping going on.

                So I'm hoping that's it. Buggered/open plug wires and wetness. If not? Well then I've got more work to do.
                1978 XS1100
                "Of all the adversaries I have faced, I was the worst."

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by cywelchjr View Post

                  If you follow the writeup on putting those coils on it should work out fine. Just remember to bypass the ballast resistor if you have one, as those coils are 3 ohm vs the 1.5 ohm of the stock coils on the 1980 and earlier bikes.
                  I'll keep that in mind. I've also got to nix the tip-over switch. BTW, is the latter just a "disconnect" or do I have to bridge the gap left by it's absence?
                  1978 XS1100
                  "Of all the adversaries I have faced, I was the worst."

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    When you remove the ballast resistor or disconnect it, you have to plug the two ends (wiring harness ends) into each other. They are bullet connectors so they simply click together. A wrap of tape or some heat shrink will help keep out moisture as well.
                    2-79 XS1100 SF
                    2-78 XS1100 E Best bike Ever
                    80 XS 1100 SG Big bore kit but not fully running yet.
                    Couple of more parts bikes of which 2 more will live!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Thanks. Same with the tip-over switch?
                      1978 XS1100
                      "Of all the adversaries I have faced, I was the worst."

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Spider View Post
                        Thanks. Same with the tip-over switch?
                        No, leave it unconnected.
                        XS1100SF
                        XS1100F

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Cool, thanks.
                          1978 XS1100
                          "Of all the adversaries I have faced, I was the worst."

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I'm not a big fan of those black mikes coils. I had a set that lasted 7k miles and then crapped out on me. Several other members have had similar experiences with those coils, but then again many members have had good luck with them, so you pays your money and you takes your chances. The green ones seem to be a lot beefier although they're a little pricy. The other option you have is to graft new wires into your stock coils. If you've got a dremel tool (or even a hand rasp) it's not too tough, and having done several sets I can tell you it works. The pre '81 coils are easier to repair than the later ones, and there's a pretty good write up in tech tips on the procedure. JAT
                            I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.

                            '79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by dbeardslee View Post
                              I'm not a big fan of those black mikes coils. I had a set that lasted 7k miles and then crapped out on me. Several other members have had similar experiences with those coils, but then again many members have had good luck with them, so you pays your money and you takes your chances. The green ones seem to be a lot beefier although they're a little pricy. The other option you have is to graft new wires into your stock coils. If you've got a dremel tool (or even a hand rasp) it's not too tough, and having done several sets I can tell you it works. The pre '81 coils are easier to repair than the later ones, and there's a pretty good write up in tech tips on the procedure. JAT
                              Well given what remains of my rebuild budget, I think I'm going to be adding new cables to my old coils and saving my money for the green ones later down the line. As far as I can tell, it's one or two of the wires themselves that are the issue.*knock wood*
                              1978 XS1100
                              "Of all the adversaries I have faced, I was the worst."

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