Spudder at start

[Bigge_al]

I have been doing a few around the block mid winter rides (20 to 30 mins) just to get away.
I noticed that after starting the bike as I start to take off it spudders and stalls. After getting going I no longer have the problem. Each time I decide to go for a ride thou the same thing. I have even let the bike sit to warm up while I put on my boots and riding gear and still the same spuddering. Any body have an idea as to the cause or should I just live with it. Over the summer TC and I did the 2nd gear fix, rebuild carbs, and I replaced the fuel lines making sure that they had no kinks.

[DGXSER]

Until they warm up mine will also sputter a little especially below 3k. IMO, it is just this big engine wanting fuel and having lots of sace for it to condense. I just ride in a lower gear until it gets warmed up and have no issues there after. JMO

[kta]

You could try something as simple as turning your idle up a tick, might help. Your carbs might also be getting slightly out of sync.

[dbeardslee]

You might try running primary and secondary electrical resistance tests on your ignition coils. If you're still running the stock ignition coils, pay particular attention to the secondary resistance test (pull both plug wires for a given coil, remove plug caps, and attach digital multimeter probes where the plug caps attached. Reading should be about 10K ohms). If the readings are way out of spec, the high tension wires can be replaced but it requires doing some dremeling on the coils. Also check the resistance on your plug caps and make sure they're not worn out. Reading should be 5k ohms on each cap if you're running resistor caps, or still have the stockers installed. The charging system should put out around 12v at idle, and climbs rapidly to 14.2v at 2200 rpm. I've seen bad coils cause low rpm issues. JAT

Might also trace the red/wht wire that runs from the TCI to all it's stops and make sure the connectors are clean. For that matter it's a good idea to go through all your elecrical connectors, including the connectors inside the headlight bucket and behind the fuse block - it makes a difference. The handlebar shutoff switch should also be cleaned (be careful on disassembly - there are small parts inside that can get away from you if not contained).

[CatatonicBug]

When you are first starting out, is it with the choke still pulled at all? For me, if I pull out with the choke still pulled, it studders a bit. Once I push it all the way in, after fully warming up (about 1/2 mile down the road at 30ºF), it runs great. It used to be a lot worse, before I actually took the choke rod out, and removed the choke plungers and cleaned inside the plunger orifices. That's not part of the usual carb cleaning routine, but it made a difference for me.

[Rasputin]

I had a similar problem with my bike. I tended to notice it more with two people on the bike. I had added pods and done some other work as well at that time. Ended up that I was running a tad on the lean side. I turned the air/idle screws out a bit and it was gone. In the end I did rejet to one size bigger Pilots. A synch and colortune and all was well. If the bike is running well otherwise, give those screws a half turn out and see if it makes a difference...JAT

[Bigge_al]

Rasputin it is possible that I am running a little lean should I turn them CW or CCW that half turn. The plugs are just turning a little whitish cinnamon in color.
As far as the choke it is not out when I start riding and it only sputters at the initial twist of the throttle after that it runs great.

[DiverRay]

Righty Tighty, Lefty Loosey!! Turn the mixture screws about 1/4 turn Counter Clockwise to make it a little bit richer. You can go back and turn it another 1/4 turn if you need to. I ALWAYS use small steps when adjusting a carb bank. It does NOT take much to throw it off.