turn signals are not working

[apndrvs]

when i got the bike running i noticed the blinkers would not flash. they come on but wont flash. i whent today and bought a new flasher fuse, but its not for the bike i bought a generic 12v flasher fuse for a car. they both hook up the same but when i put the new one on there it didnt even light up. so i put the old fuse back on and noticed that when the turn signal is on if i tap the fuse with screwdriver it flashes once. i have checked the wiring that plugs into the fuse it looks fine. does anyone know if i can just buy a regular fuse or do i have to get one that is made for the bike?

[TopCatGr58]

Hey there,

Let's see if I can be the first to answer this? However, I tend to get rather verbose, but you'll see it's necessary!

First, it's not a FUSE, it's a FLASHER relay. Secondly, have you replaced any of the lights/bulbs/turn signals? The OEM flasher as well as the newer AUTO replacement type (2 prong is what will work, not 3), are both THERMAL type. The bulbs are 27 watts in a pair, = 4.5 AMPs draw which causes the flasher to work. IF you have weaker bulbs, it don't heat up enough to cycle.

Also, the turn signals tend to develop rust and corrosion on their grounds...the rear inside the fender well, the fronts inside the headlight bucket if it's a special.

Hopefully you have a test/voltmeter and can check the grounds for EACH light. Check the bulb sockets also for corrosion, clean accordingly.

Have you replaced the OEM fuseblock!? They are notorious for failing, crumbling apart, etc. You ARE getting power to the turn signal circuit, but if you are trying it with the engine OFF, the battery may not have enough oomph to provide the full power that circuit needs, try running the bike, or connecting a jumper battery.

Also, the OEM flasher can build up corrosion or pitting on the contact points inside the mechanism, some folks have taken it apart, cleaned the contact points, and got it to working again. YMMV! If you want to test it further, get a 2 prong auto flasher, it will plug in only 1 of 2 ways, if it doesn't work one way, try the other. The 3 prongs will NOT work!
T.C.

[apndrvs]

i have replaced the rear lights. and they are smaller than the factory ones. the fuse block is in perfect condition no rust or bad connections. the grounds are good. im cunfused as to why a 3 prong RELAY wont work. that is what the factory pigtail is wired up for. are you saying that because i have smaller lights now they dont draw enough power to make the relay work, and that is why i need the 2 prong one. also i have a brand new batterie and i tried it while it was running today.

[Ivan]

The three prong relay in a automotive application uses 12V, ground and bulb.

On this setup, the third prong gets a signal to shut off the signals via a reed switch in the speedo and a timing circuit. the other two are 12, and bulb IIRC.

So, you see, if you stick a three prong flasher in our setup, you essentially feed 12v into the flasher and don't provide it with a ground, so it can't work.

[TopCatGr58]

What Ivan said,

And if you used LED's for the replaced lights, they definitely will not draw enough current to activate the flasher unit. You can get an ELECTRONIC or electro-mechanical flasher....2 PRONG, that isn't LOAD specific, and will usually work with the smaller bulbs, lesser loads vs. the OEM bulbs!
T.C.