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Clutch Fix, Washers AND Steel plate, Overkill, Dangerous?

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  • Clutch Fix, Washers AND Steel plate, Overkill, Dangerous?

    My first post. Got my 1981 Special in late Oct. and squeaked in 5 or 6 rides before the snow. Almost bought a Honda 900 10 speed until I found this site and started reading about the xs11. Looked long and hard for my xs11 so I could join the family. Great bike, great site. Thanks to all who make it possible.

    Snow on the ground in Boston. Great time for a clutch fix.
    I'm slipping in 3rd and up. Took it all apart according to TopCatGr58 post and everything is in spec. 16,000 on the bike. Using 10w-40 Valvoline standard. Going to 20w-50 Mobile one this summer.

    I have searched and read everything I can find on clutch fixes, but did not see this question.
    Should I add the extra plate AND the spark plug washers (they do fit perfectly, great suggestion) or will this damage the clutch? If you recommend only one, which do you think will give the best results.

    Thanks Much and have a blessed New Year.

    Dirk
    Last edited by whimzi2000; 01-02-2010, 01:50 PM.
    PAST
    Honda CB100 punched out to 150 (would do wheelies all day long, my bones didn't break as easy at 16)
    Honda 1971 CB 750
    CURRENT
    Honda 1978 CB 750 (still own, need to junk or part out, any takers)
    Yamaha 1981 XS1100 Special

  • #2
    If the friction plates are in spec, you can usually eliminate the slip with new heavy duty clutch springs for $10-$15. Also, synthetic oils will cause clutch to slip. Best to use regular motor oil with no friction modifiers. HTH
    2H7 (79) owned since '89
    3H3 owned since '06

    "If it ain't broke, modify it"

    Comment


    • #3
      Imho

      Dirk,

      Welcome to the XSives.

      I think your problem is with the motor oil your running. I had the same problem with mine when I first got it.

      I was trying to be a cheap azz and was running Rotella 15w40. Switched to Castrol 20w50 4 stroke m/c oil and the slipping went away once I got the old Rotella worked out of the friction discs.

      Then I changed it again and put fresh 20w50 in. No more problems at all!!!

      Oils designed for automotive engines have friction modifiers in them that don't play well with wet clutches.

      You don't have to use the Castrol but find something at least that is formulated to run with the wet clutch.

      It's about $4 a quart but it's worth it.

      Anything with "reduced wear" or " high mileage formula" written on it is really
      bad.

      Comment


      • #4
        That will more than likely give you a good firm pull on the clutch handle. Some don't mind, some do. BUT.. it's just a suggestion.. if you have it that far apart, new clutch springs cost like $16. I bought some heavy duty Barnett springs this last time and they are heavier than the stock springs. The clutch pull is a bit harder, but I don't mind and there's absolutely no hint of slipping now, but I do have the extra steel plate also. They are a bit more at @ $25, but the stock "Heavy duty" ones only lasted me about 6 months.

        In case anyone is wondering, Barnett's part number for the springs is 501-58-06045, and the old part number in case someone has new old stock is MT-45-6.


        Tod
        Try your hardest to be the kind of person your dog thinks you are.

        You can live to be 100, as long as you give up everything that would make you want to live to be 100!

        Current bikes:
        '06 Suzuki DR650
        *'82 XJ1100 with the 1179 kit. "Mad Maxim"
        '82 XJ1100 Completely stock fixer-upper
        '82 XJ1100 Bagger fixer-upper
        '82 XJ1100 Motor/frame and lots of boxes of parts
        '82 XJ1100 Parts bike
        '81 XS1100 Special
        '81 YZ250
        '80 XS850 Special
        '80 XR100
        *Crashed/Totalled, still own

        Comment


        • #5
          As to clutch parts, count me as a plus one for the new springs. Mine had 26,000 on the clock when I changed the springs out for Heavy Duty springs. I ordered them from my local Yamarobbers for $15. Add an hour of labor to put them in and my clutch issues have gone away.

          As to oil, like many new members, I started a "Which oil is best" thread, and a year later I am tired of them to. I am not about to tell you what oil to use, I will however tell you that using std auto oil has never caused me one ounce of trouble. From the Wally World or Meijer brand 10W40 to Castrol GTX 20W50, never had a problem one that was oil related.
          Life is what happens while your planning everything else!

          When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.

          81 XS1100 Special - Humpty Dumpty
          80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection


          Previously owned
          93 GSX600F
          80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
          81 XS1100 Special
          81 CB750 C
          80 CB750 C
          78 XS750

          Comment


          • #6
            Ive used both the extra steel and the washers
            behind the springs, on the same clutch pack, (not at the same time)
            both have been effective,
            the extra washers will give a harder feel at the lever
            compared to the extra steel, using both tho imo is over kill.
            pete


            new owner of
            08 gen2 hayabusa


            former owner
            1981 xs1100 RH (aus) (5N5)
            zrx carbs
            18mm float height
            145 main jets
            38 pilots
            slide needle shimmed .5mm washer
            fitted with v/stax and uni pod filters

            [url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3pA8dwxmAVA&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL[/url]

            Comment


            • #7
              As long as it's apart just sand the steels, throw in new frictions and new heavy duty springs. Then be prepared to ignore it for another 30 years.

              Once the plates get smoked, they are damaged even if they are still in spec.

              Same amount of work.

              I am ambivalent on synthetic oil. I think if the clutch is already weak, then yeah it can cause slip. But if everything is up to snuff it should be fine.
              XS1100SF
              XS1100F

              Comment


              • #8
                Just want to thank TopCatGr58 for the great illustration on the clutch fix with the extra plate (see Repairs;engine; "clutch fix") and everybodys suggestions. I just installed it with the KG Clutch Factory heavy duty springs. The whole fix was $25.

                I went for a quicky ride yesterday in sunny cold New England (30 degrees), snow on the shoulders but the roads were clear. Am I nuts? I had to test my handiwork. Somehow the wife couldn't relate. Redlined through 3rd and it was solid. Not a hint of slip. Would of kept going, but looked down and saw 90. That was enough, given the road. The fix was great.

                What a bike, what a site.

                Thanks
                Last edited by whimzi2000; 01-24-2010, 08:21 PM. Reason: add info
                PAST
                Honda CB100 punched out to 150 (would do wheelies all day long, my bones didn't break as easy at 16)
                Honda 1971 CB 750
                CURRENT
                Honda 1978 CB 750 (still own, need to junk or part out, any takers)
                Yamaha 1981 XS1100 Special

                Comment


                • #9
                  You can't argue with success! Good job!
                  Skids (Sid Hansen)

                  Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.

                  Comment

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