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  • #31
    Keenserts are really great, but not readily available at the local Oreally?s. Which is a shame because they are far superior to helicoils.
    Ich habe dich nicht gefragt.

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    • #32
      Yea but keenserts are a PITA to install.Unless you pre-tap, but I agree a far superior product.
      80 SG XS1100
      14 Victory Cross Country

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      • #33
        ????

        That is the procedure with both. The Keenserts are not self tapping. Am I missing something?? BTW I will check into getting some in quantity in the sizes we might use.
        '81 1100 MNS - "Midnight XSpress"
        Original except:
        120 mains outer cylinders - 125 mains inner cylinders - Ceramic headers - Powder coated pipes, covers calipers, and MC's
        4 pods - Air box gutted--E3 Plugs - High Back seat - Grooved out swing arm - SS brake lines
        Fork brace - 160 speedo - Auto CCT
        All gold paint and chrome replaced with GOLD plate

        "STUPID is Forever" Ron White.
        Contact me by PM -I don't deal with stupid anymore.

        Big John

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        • #34
          I'm willing to pay
          Bummer, your about 12 hours too far north ...
          But for a newbe it looks/sounds like your doing a pretty good job.

          Frame is looking good. The good of using a rattle can is it's easy to touch up, the bad is that you will need a touch up sooner than later.

          mro

          BTW,
          I've done a few compression tests "on the bench" and the 1100 is easier to bench test than some. If you have not a remote starter button you can do it the old fashion way of just using a battery charger hooked to the starter with the neg. to the block.

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          • #35
            I think it is too late to say this now, but if you are just rattle canning the frame, it is better to just finish sand the good areas of the existing original paint and leave it on the frame and only strip the paint that's not worth saving. The reason for doing this is because the original paint was baked on and any paint applied over it will be less likely to flake off over time, then paint sprayed on primer covered bare metal. Also that hole you found in the engine case was probably done at the factory, you will find that a lot in thin cases where there is a boss cast in for a bolt. If you are afraid it will some how leak put a little thread sealant on the bolt before you reinstall it. Some manuals will tell you to do this as part of the reassembly process.
            Fastmover
            "Just plant us in the damn garden with the stupid
            lion". SHL
            78 XS1100e

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            • #36
              Originally posted by jmnjrpa View Post
              Keenserts... They are better than helicoils, easier to install and use standard taps. Use the thin walled kind unless there is ample surrounding material. They are harder than the bolt.
              Been using helicoils for 30 years and I would take the Keenserts hands down over them.
              Yeah, I've seen those used and they are a better choice in some instances. But they're harder to find, quite a bit more expensive and don't always offer the flexibility of Helicoils in some applications.

              If I could have both in my garage, I would; but the Helicoils are expensive enough thank you....

              '78E original owner
              Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

              '78E original owner - resto project
              '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
              '82 XJ rebuild project
              '80SG restified, red SOLD
              '79F parts...
              '81H more parts...

              Other current bikes:
              '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
              '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
              '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
              Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
              Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

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              • #37
                jmnjrpa-
                That is the procedure with both. The Keenserts are not self tapping. Am I missing something??
                Sorry, guess I was talkng about tri-serts.They are self tapping and just require a hole.We used a lot of them on ingot molds and the tapping arms didn't like it.We had to manually finish them.So I would pre tap them, which was a no no according to QA.
                But they are basically the same as keenserts.
                80 SG XS1100
                14 Victory Cross Country

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                • #38
                  And of course, you used a wee dab of high strength loctite to glue the inset into the head, didn't you? That way, if it ever gets tight again, there's less chance of backing the insert out with the bolt next time...
                  Ken Talbot

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