three strikes?

[jmnjrpa]

Cover on ebay

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Y88-1...Q5fAccessories

[Incubus]

Hey Parrot, if it comes down to it and you think Renton is within driving distance of "180 miles northwest of Spokane," where Andreas Weiss resides, perhaps he could help you out with a replacement motor. He has proven to be trustworthy to many members here and he sells XS11 parts at real fair prices. Of course, you would need a way to haul it or find a reasonable way to ship it. Do a search for andreasweiss.

Patrick

[tarzan]

If you do need an engine,you would probably be money ahead to get it from Andreas as he is pretty close to you.Shipping a motor across country can be expensive.

Take you're time with the stuck bolts and extractor,you can do it.You can get a carbide burr at ace hardware.I'd get an 1/8" one and gently grind into the extractor.It may take a couple hours, but I have done it multiple times.Although
like a couple other guys here I am a machinist so I have access to a lot of tooling that some people don't.
Good luck.
Rick

[Ivan]

Works good if the person doing the drilling can keep the drill perpendicular to the plane and in the center of the bolt. Not very many people can with a drill press or hand drill. I have been machining over 40 years and have screwed a couple up with this method. This being so, I believe a combination of these ideas will work best for him. Drill well under the minor diameter of the bolt and heat the head (in an oven) then extract while still hot. Do not apply local heat as this tends to warp the head. This method was most likely what Ivan was detailing but I wanted to insure you knew about the head warpage issue.

My head is warped anyway.

[rover]

Three strikes

I would be extremely careful about buying a used engine off E-Bay, unless you know it came from a crashed bike that did not damage the engine. Almost all the parts on E-Bay are sold by people that make a living out of stripping bikes, cars, etc. If the engine is sold as whole, there would likely be major issues with the internals. These "Bike Breakers" can make much more selling each individual piece of an engine, unless there are major flaws with the insides. Andreas would be the best choice, he is honest, and reasonable. Ask ANYONE on this website. It is possible to replace half an engine block, the Japanese are very good machinists. If you try that, get one from the same year, as there are differences from year to year. Replacing half a block does present several things to consider. If you weren't so far away, I do have a complete engine in my shop, but I am rather reluctant to sell it. The price I would need to get plus shipping would be very high. Try Andreas.

[XSokieSPECIAL]

Ahead... warp 3.... ENGAGE!


You think you #^(*!^* warped!


HIJACK-HIJACK-HIJACK

[TomRodgers]

FWIW....I have used the "heat up the whole thing, cool the bastard part" method and it works well...

Get it all real hot..then use an ice cube or air in a can...cool the bolt down. works like a charm on rusted manifold bolts. used it MANY MANY MANY times on old Chevy's and Ford's. Dont see why it wouldnt work with a Yamaha, providing you can get the cold to the bolt.....

currently i have two engines in the garage...one in Frankenbike, the other came with 'Sunshine when i picked him up...... As soon as the wallet genie brings a lot of gifts, im going to pump a few more ponies into both the 'Ghost and into 'Sunshine....

[Rev.Rick]

Didn't mean to step on your toes Big John, I was agreeing with everything you said and trying to emphasize the problem with an already cracked case. I have in some cases be able to eliminate an further cracking by drilling a hole at the end of the crack and then welding it up. in the area that He has the damage this would be difficult to do. I hate to see anyone (because I've done it) throw good money to the bad. Like y'all said the exhaust bolt can be fixed, however 7000rpms is no time to find that the damaged case was worse than expected.

[jmnjrpa]

No problem Rick.

We are all trying to help a fellow XSer. That's all that counts in my book.

[latexeses]

Snap-on has or had a Carbide Drill Extractor Set. Left hand drills too. The item number used to be EXDL10. Best extractor I have ever used. Go slow and good luck.

Rodger

[parrot820]

After taking a bit of a break during the holidays, I'm back at it.
I've spent the past week or so cleaning up the frame and repainting it.
Yes, paint. The spray can type. I decided against powder coating the frame due to cost. I guess time will tell how it holds up to the elements...and me getting the engine back into the frame.

I also decided against chemical paint strippers and decided to just power drill+various metal brushes to get the old paint off.

Looks pretty good, I think.
Here are some before and after pics:







Now the big one, for me, since it either means getting a new header or just soldiering on with the existing one: my very first heli coil.
First up was drilling out that broken off extractor. A dremel plus diamond coated bits worked great. Probably took less than 30 minutes to get the extractor extracted. Then I just followed the heli coil instructions.
The whole process went so much smoother and easier than I imagined it would.

I'm quite pleased with myself that I got this to work on the first try.
Time will tell, of course how well it'll actually hold once I try to reattach the header pipe, but so far so good.





Now I just need to get the old gaskets off, scrub the engine down one more time, touch up the paint, and get 'er back in the frame.

Oh, yeah, I'm going to keep the current engine and see how she does. Worst case, I'll have to pull the engine back off and get a new one, but I want to give this one a shot, especially since it has a fairly low amount of miles on it.

[crazy steve]

....Now the big one, for me, since it either means getting a new header or just soldiering on with the existing one: my very first heli coil.
First up was drilling out that broken off extractor. A dremel plus diamond coated bits worked great. Probably took less than 30 minutes to get the extractor extracted. Then I just followed the heli coil instructions.
The whole process went so much smoother and easier than I imagined it would.

I'm quite pleased with myself that I got this to work on the first try.
Time will tell, of course how well it'll actually hold once I try to reattach the header pipe, but so far so good.

Properly installed Helicoils are actually stronger than 'standard' threads, so you won't have any worries there. Not to say you can now reef those as tight as you want, but it's a better thread. Some of the hi-po auto aluminum head makers install these before sending the parts out the door. Your install looks good, so you should be good to go.

'78E original owner

[Ivan]

Another good thing about heli coils is that they are replaceable easily.

Your install looks good. One thing to be aware of is that the taper of the tap can cause the coil to be smaller diameter in the bottom of the blind hole. This works ok, especially for studs, as an interference fit. But if it is a bolt that will be removed repeatedly, it is smart to use a bottoming tap (sometimes tough to find a STI bottoming tap) or the coil will grab like Chinese handcuffs and cause hell.

[tarzan]

Nice job on the helicoil.Ive installed thousands of them and like stated above
they are a stronger better thread.Another bonus is that the bolt won't seize like a steel bolt in aluminum.

[jmnjrpa]

Keenserts

They are better than helicoils, easier to install and use standard taps. Use the thin walled kind unless there is ample surrounding material. They are harder than the bolt.
Been using helicoils for 30 years and I would take the Keenserts hands down over them.