ANOTHER oil question

[xs1100avinjar]

I have read all the oil faqs, maintnance tips on oil, and searched the forum (and read just about every post on oil)

and now I am even more confused than before

Mabe I missed something but I would like to know if I should use regular car motor oil (not synthetic) in my 80 xs1100g? Is the 20-40w that yamaha recomends a special type of oil with special detergents for a wet clutch? Can I use standard Valvaline 20-50 or 10-40??? Can I get some peoples opinions of what they use in thier bike and how long they have been running it?


Thank you ,
Vincent

[TopCatGr58]

Alright, another Oil Thread!

Ducking for cover!!

I've used Castrol 20-50 from day one. Got my bike new in 83. Castrol is theoretically engineered for smaller engines that put more stresses on oil, ie. higher temps, RPM's, pressures, than the big slower revving V-8's. It's a car oil, not motorcycle specific, but it's all natural dino juice. I would think that most folks will say using any brand of natural dino 20-50 would be a safe bet. I remember reading another FAQ posted elsewhere by an OIL industry person, that stated something about 20-50 oil used a higher density stronger molecular base than the 10-40 and so was less likely to break down as fast compared to the lower viscosity, and these engines being air cooled run quite warm compared to water cooled types, and so that's why I opt for the higher visc grade. I live in the middle temps zones, rarely gets below freezing, and I'm not out driving in it when it does get that low. But if you do plan to run in the winter, then you might want the lower grades(10-40) in winter, but use the higher grade(20-50) for summer!?!? Most folks say only use the Partial Synthetics if you want to use the synthetics, not the full synthetics, cause they can cause clutch slippage. Okay, anybody else???

T.C. not a guru !!!!!!!

[Jerry]

Wet-type clutch, where engine oil also is used in the clutch, has a few special requirements. Yes, you can use car-type oil, but full synthetics, or those with certain friction modifiers (HTPF sp?) are not recommended and may cause clutch slipping. Stick to a dino-juice or semi-synthetic in the weights recommended by Yamaha. 3 major brands recommended and used by many list members include Shell Rotella 15W-40, Mobile Delvac 1200, and Castrol semi-synthetic or straight dino juice. It is probably more important that you change oil and filter regularly than the brand of oil you use.

I avoid the use of very wide-range oils, like 10W-40. Oil base stocks have chemicals added to them to get this range, but the additives tend to break down more quickly than the oil base. Therefore, at the end of 3,000 miles (or less) the oil viscosity has changed, sometime significantly. Staying within the viscosity of the base stock gives you less viscosity change over many miles.

Air-cooled engines run hotter than water-cooled engines, so the Yamaha and Honda and other oils do have a different 'mix' of additives than car oils. Honda, in particular, claims better clutch performance with their oils. However, repeated tests on street-driven bikes have shown little difference in wear, performance, and longevity between high quality car oils and the oils designated for air-cooled engines.

Yamaha makes a good oil; I use their 2-stroke stuff in my Yamaha oil-injected snowmobile, but use Rotella T in my XJ. Have used it for 3 years now, have a great deal of confidence in it. Also change oil and filter at about 3K mile intervals, and a lot of my miles are superslab at high temps with a load.

Pick a good oil, stick with it, change oil and filter regularly, and you won't have a problem.

[Robert Haller]

It's been awhile since we've had an oil thread. Motorcycle Consumer News did a comprehensive test on oils and found that most of the car oils were equal to motorcycle oils. Shell Rotella in fact was ranked near the top. Some people have experienced clutch slippage with full synthetic oil.

[Snow]

When I was using Mobile 1 15w50 full synthetic, I experienced a *little* clutch slippage, but experienced a *lot* of starter clutch slippage, so badly that it would take me 10 minutes just to start my bike. Switched back to Castrol GTX dino juice and it cleared up after 1 ride.

[Hobbit]

oil debate

Road Bike magazine has a large article on motorcycle oil in this month's issue.
At the end of the article there is still no decession made, but it does contain a lot of good information.

[Dennyz]

Let’s get real about oil. The most important thing about oil in the XS is that there is enough in it and it is clean. 99% of our concerns with oil should be about nothing more.

The other 1% makes good shop discussion and Internet threads. The weight may have some effect on mileage or starting, and even possibly clutch performance. If you tend to go long distances, availability may be a big issue. Mostly the 1% is about theory and opinions.

That’s my $.02 on oil.

[sixtysix]

Do what I do:

Castrol Semi Synth 20W-50 car oil.......$2.07 a quart at walmart. There now you feel good giving your bike a premium quality oil. Bottom line is this....If I use it, it doesn't suck!

P.S. my XS has nearly 90,000 miles on it and the clutch does not slip....ever.



From the website, these are the two weights I use:

SAE 20W-50: meets the toughest industry standards for volatility protection and provides a higher level of thermal stability and provides an added level of synthetic protection versus conventional oils.

Castrol Syntec Blend Truck, SAE 15W-40: Meets the toughest industry standards for volatility protection. It delivers maximum viscosity protection, provides a higher level of thermal stability, reduces harmful deposits and provides superior wear protection. Carries the spec for API CH-4.


Warranty and Protection Requirements

Exceeds API SJ, SH, European engine tests, Japanese wear tests and the engine protection requirements of ILSAC GF-I, GF-2 and GF-3 for API Certified Gasoline Engine Oils Exceeds all car and light truck manufacturers' warranty requirements for the protection of gasoline, diesel and turbocharged engines where API SL, SJ, SH or SG is recommended.

Castrol Syntec Blend Q & A
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Question: What are the benefits of CASTROL SYNTEC BLEND?
Answer: SYNTEC BLEND Part Synthetic is the only motor oil that is a proprietary blend of Castrol conventional oil and SYNTEC molecular components. Its synthetic blend formula provides added protection versus conventional oils for severe driving conditions. These conditions are defined in car and truck owner's manuals as stop and go traffic, towing & hauling, frequent short trips, extreme temperatures, and even idling -- conditions that you face every day

Question: When should I use Syntec Blend Part Synthetic Motor Oil?

Answer: SYNTEC BLEND is the only part-synthetic product that is a proprietary blend of Castrol conventional base oils and SYNTEC molecular components. Unlike some other products on the market that are made for specific vehicle types, we've developed SYNTEC BLEND because we understand that it's not WHAT you drive, but HOW you drive.

On-going research shows that most consumers operate their vehicles under what manufacturers describe as severe driving conditions such as stop and go traffic, frequent short trips, extreme temperatures, or towing and hauling. Castrol SYNTEC BLEND provides an added level of synthetic protection against the stress these conditions place on an engine.

Question: Wouldn't it be better (or just as good) if I mixed Syntec with GTX?

Answer: Although all the oils are compatible, this is not the way we make Syntec Blend - it is fully formulated in its own right with conventional GTX base stocks and Syntec molecular components to achieve its unique properties.


If your question was not answered:
Send a question to the Expert.
or Call 1-800-462-0835.
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[Bud Manley]

Question: Is CASTROL SYNTEC BLEND a proprietary blend of oils or can just any dumb**** with a chemistry set, a bong and a barrel of crude oil make it?

Answer: SYNTEC BLEND Part Synthetic is the only motor oil that is a proprietary blend of Castrol conventional oil and SYNTEC molecular components.

I had to do it. LOL.

[sixtysix]

If you are worried about weights, here is what you need to know, the first number (say 20) is the weight of the base oil that makes up the blend. This is the winter rating of the oil so they call it 20W. The second number (say 50) is the weight the oil acts like when it gets hot. They do this by adding long chain polymers that 'swell' up when hot and restrict flow somewhat. The further the numbers are apart, the more additives are in it and the 'worse' the oil is from an purity standpoint. So I will use 15W-40 over 10W-40 in spring and fall (since numbers are closer, and base weight is better) and I will use 20W-50 in summer, for the same reason.

If you want to buy regular conventional oil, the best stuff to get is 15W-40 all fleet, Mobil Delvac Super 1300 and Shell Rotella are the most popular, I have used both in bikes with no problems. Only about $5.00 a gallon at Wal-Mart.

Also stay away from this symbol.....the star burst:



It means the oil is energy conserving and contains friction modifiers that are OK in cars but not good for motorcycles with wet clutches....You usually will not find this on any oil 15W-40 or heavier cause it won't pass the test. It will still have the circle on the right but will not have the words 'energy conserving' on it.

I may be wrong about some or all of this...but it is the way I understand it to be.