Help for my winter project!+pictures

[DGXSER]

The shim size you need depends on TWO things. ONE is the current gap, which you have measured. TWO is the current shim size. So you need to check the shims currently in place before you can figure what size shims you need.

Valve clearance changes as the valve wears into the seat in the head. On these engines, the gap will close up as the valve wears into the seat. Manual indicates to check the valve clearance every 5,000 miles. So they must expect some wear in that interval.

[CA]

Process

Your right DGXSER, I think I should be able to swap out the shims here at a local motorcycle shop so hopefully I will be able to complete this portion of the bike this weekend. Now in doing this I will be following a write-up of TRBIG's for it seems to be the easiest, any extra advice would be appreciated. Now my questions are:

1. what do I need to change if anything by replacing the stock CCT with a self adjusting one?
2. What do I need to know about this procedure, more than is written here, because I don't know what the hell I am doing. (I have never messed with Cams, or timing etc...)

Thanks.

TRBIG's write up:

If you find that it works just about as well as the Motion Pro tool, the easiest way is as follows. **Note** If you're a stickler that goes by only what the manual says.. read no further.


Take off your valve cover and carefully measure your valve clearances. Don't just use the smallest and largest clearance clearance feeler gauges to see if it's a go/no go. Find out just what they are.. some may need more than a single size shim adjustment. Carefully write all these numbers down... 4 for the intake side, 4 for the exhaust side.

Rotate the crank back to the "T" mark and make sure the cams line up with their timing marks. (If it was running, they will)

Remove the cam chain tensioner.

Pull the chain guide out between the two cam sprockets, and give the chain a small tug to get some slack in the chain from the exhaust side.

The cam caps are all numbered 1-5 with arrows facing the right side. Carefully remove the screws/washers from all the cam caps and make sure you don't drop anything down the cam chain galley. Anything dropped in the vacinity will go there like a black hole. Remove the cap nuts a few turns at a time each and the cam will slowly rise. Doing it this way will prevent damage to the caps or cams.

With the cam caps off and the cam loose, use a small jewelers screwdriver or similar in the bucket slots provided and remove the shims that need changing. Note what size they are from each bucket since one from another cylinder may be needed at another location. Don't try to raise the cam completely out of the bearings... you want to make sure the cam sprocket stays in the same spot on the cam chain.

After the shims are replaced with the correct size, reverse order. You'll have to get the caps on and the screws started at one end and a couple turns at a time, tighten them until you can get #3 cap on and the screws started. After getting a few turns on the screws for #3, the rest of the screws can be started on the other caps.

Torque the screws to spec, then repeat the process with the exhaust cam.

After you finish and the exhaust cam is retorqued, re-install the chain guide in between the cams, and go back to the left side of the bike. With your left hand, stick your finger through the hole in the front of the motor where the cam chain adjuster goes and push in on that bar with your finger. Slowly rotate the crank CLOCKWISE (To the right) until you get it lined up with the "C" mark.

Loosen your cam chain adjuster screw so you can fully depress (Push in) the plunger. Lock it there lightly with the set screw. Reinstall the adjuster to where it belongs and tighten the mounting screws. Then loosen the adjuster screw so the adjuster plunger strikes the cam chain guide. Torque the set screw and nut to spec (Which isn't very much).

Turn the crank past the "T" mark and keep going until that mark comes around the 2nd time. (The crank spins two revs to the cams' once.) Line up the "T" mark again and double check your cam timing.

Since you never moved anything, it should be pretty foolproof to mess up the timing this way. Slap your valve cover and side cover on and go ride!!

I used to totally remove the cams for this and have since found (Thanks to John) that this really wasn't necessary. It made it a pain to get everything back in time and the possibility of bending valves if you got it wrong.


Tod

[dbeardslee]

The main difference with the automatic adjusters is that you have to remove the bolt on the end, as well as the spring prior to installation. Might be some other small parts in there too, depending on the tensioner you're using, so pay attention to the order you remove them. There should be a detent on the engine side that you'll have to push in order to pull the plunger back. Depending on the tensioner you're using, you may have to elongate the bolt holes for mounting. If you have a tensioner that requires elongation of the holes you may want to cut your own gasket out of relatively thick gasket material, and use some rtv on it. Once the tensioner is mounted, reinstall the spring and other parts (reverse order of disassembly) and reinstall the bolt.

[CA]

update

Well finally pulled out the shims to see what I was working with. I basically had even wear on everything but one (Intake #3 was at .18 right where it should be.) everything else needs more clearance by .05.

So if I decrease all of the shims I need by .05 then I need:

1 - 260
2 - 270
2 - 285
1 - 295

But if I decreased by .10 which would be putting them .05 over normal usage, but my understanding from this form is that thats not necassarily that bad of a thing...then all I would need is

1-260 or 255
1- 285 or 280
(depending if I stay with the .05 standard or keep them all the same at 1.0)

So a little advice and hoping that the library or someone will be able to help me out!

Oh and to see the ones I will be trading just add 5 to the ones I need...

Beadsless, I believe I got a Venturer one, I went in with jrmnpa. It looks like a direct fit. I have some nice sticky-side gasket material i applied today and will be putting the new one on once I can get these new shims...

Oh and the carbs are pretty much done!

[dbeardslee]

if I decreased by .10 which would be putting them .05 over normal usage

It will also decrease how far the valves open. It'll probably make it a little noisier on top, too. Personally I like to set them where they're supposed to be. Shims aren't that expensive, and it's something you don't do that often, so why not do it right?

Carbs are looking beautiful!

[CA]

shims??

So I haven't gotten any traction on the library or anyone having these shims...I called around Nashville and didn't get much luck, if I have to buy some by each one then I will definitely open the gaps bigger to buy less...

Anyone know of a good place to get some??? or have some we could trade??

This is the last thing holding up my bike!!!

Thanks

[tinman905]

So I haven't gotten any traction on the library or anyone having these shims...I called around Nashville and didn't get much luck, if I have to buy some by each one then I will definitely open the gaps bigger to buy less...

Anyone know of a good place to get some??? or have some we could trade??

This is the last thing holding up my bike!!!

Thanks

I have what you need , let me know exactly which ones you need.

[bikerphil]

Don't know if it's been posted, another cheap valve shim source...

http://www.crc2onlinecatalog.com/valve_shims.htm

[CA]

Muchas Gracias

Thanks guys. Now if I can just get my new CCT on and everything timed up correctly I will be set to go...cross your fingers!!

How should I check that? Just make sure my timing marks are lined up once I install the new CCT?

PM sent tinman. Gracias Senor!!