Help for my winter project!+pictures

[CA]

Well its been a while since I have posted on here. The bike has been the best thing a man could ask for during the fall as you can see in the pictures. Yet it is now time for the winter project. Keep in mind when I ask questions, I will be severely limited as the only garage space I have is 45 min. away so I can't spend oodles of time on everything. (If anyone has garage space in Downtown Nashville....ha) I thought I could use this thread as a place for questions that will definitely arise for me, as I am relatively in-experienced with these things. You guys helped with my carbs and getting her set so. Now i am hoping to shed the 30 years of blah and spic her up.

Here's what I am thinking
1. Put new floats in, current ones are old and slightly damaged, and my last two tanks of gas got about 25 mpg, not cutting it. Rest of inerds are new so I suspect its my partially deflated floats giving way.
2. Install new front MC, drag bars, etc.
3. Decide if and what color to paint engine, black vs. silver.
4. Paint headers...I am thinking silver
(I think a black engine with silver headers and chrome tailpipe would look sweet but I am not sure)
5. Paint Gas tank, and make new side covers, as one is gone and I refuse to pay 50 for another stock on.
5.5 Paint wheels and final drive.
5.8 Replace middle and final drive oils.
6. Replace leaking oil pan.
7. If I have time replace fuse block.
8. Really need to figure out the rubber seal on engine thing. Which I will post pictures of...how do I fix those things? What exactly are they?
9. Paint some of the frame as it has rust in a few places and looks drabby.

I don't want to take the engine out. Time is a priority on all this. So rattle can it is. I have done research on a lot of this but will still ask some questions here. Look forward to it, hope to have a clean mean xs11 for the spring!

Here are some pictures of a ride I took here in Nashville, my nasty fuse block, and finally the oil smudges I don't really know about. Any ideas/opinions will be appreciated!

Hope you like my new seat! (I know banana)

[DiverRay]

You have a good start, just need to re-order the priorities. Fuse block should be #1, as it WILL strand you. The floats should be #2, but you may find if you play with the float height they will still work. I've found with the "gas" we have in California, I need to set the floats a little higher than stock. That is, the float is at 27mm, not 25.5mm.
Next is middle and final drive oil change. I use Redline synthetic, and have had no problems. Just be sure you can get the filler plug off BEFORE you drain the oil! There are threads on tips to getting stuck plugs off.
The oil leak in the front of the engine is the cam chain tensioner. the plug for that is still available from Yamaha for about $5. Remember to clean everything well befor installing the new plug.
The half moon plugs on the head can be replaced when you check the valves. I know it's not on your list, but it should be. New gasket and seal can be had from ebay, bike-bandit, etc.

[fredintoon]

1. Put new floats in, current ones are old and slightly damaged, - - -
5. - - -make new side covers, as one is gone and I refuse to pay 50 for another stock one. - - -
7. If I have time replace fuse block. - - -
Hope you like my new seat! (I know banana) - - -

Hi CA,
you can swap in the unsinkable plastic floats from an '80; the search button has details.
$50 is a total deal for a right-hand side cover.
Replacing that tired old fuse block with one of TC's upgrades is the best $10 I ever spent on my XS11.
And I just love the new seat. Where you gonna put the 2nd set of passenger footpegs?

[CA]

Novice

Ha thanks Fredintoon, I underestimated how long it would look when we smoothed it out, But I think the pictures accentuate it! But the more the merrier!! At least my butt doesn't get wet everytime I ride! My upholsterer took off the old cover and we literally wrung out the foam for who knows how long of it soaking up water from a cheap cover job.

DiverRay I assume there are threads for changing the CamTensioner, removing the valve cover/ raplacing half moon, and checking the valves? I have never done these items...I will try to search. Forgive my novice knowledge. That why I have this thing is to learn!

Already got plastic floats from mikesxs...and yes that list wasn't really in an order, I just want to park the thing and hit it all.
thanks!

[dbeardslee]

XV920 fuel valves go very well with plastic floats in the 78/79 carbs. When I first put plastic floats in mine I had to bend the tabs so far that they had to be rounded off to keep from catching on the lip of the seat. The XV920 fuel valves sit a little taller, and I barely had to bend the tabs at all to get the floats to the right level (25.5mm on mine). They've also got viton tipped needles - they seal a lot better and will outlast the all-metal stockers. JAT

[CA]

A little scared...

Hey beardslee, where can i get those xc920 fuel valves? I looked to no avail....here is the update from today:



Installed the new drag bars and new front master cylinder (which I should say looks 100x better than the older one.) Also installed a new horn so for the first time I have a horn. I really like the look of the new bars, much sleeker.
Yet I guess I need a new shorter throttle cable and clutch cables? I know there is no way to adjust the throttle to make up for that much slack, but perhaps the clutch cable?

Here is my real dilemma...I have been reading about doing the periodic tune up...valve clearance and what not. And I am scared crapless...I read a post or two, using terms i didn not understand and how they possibly ruined their engine.

Now I do need to replace my cam tensioner plug and those half moon things so it would make sense for me to do the tune up, but I have no experience in any of it. I read trbig did a good write up on the "no-tool method" but I cant find it.

I read the clymer tutorial, and many threads and they make decent sense but I still feel vastly inadequate. what do i need to know in order not to destroy my bike?

[TopCatGr58]

Hey there CA,

Okay, now is the perfect time and opportunity to fix the cam chain tensioner wth the least chance of damaging the engine. You'll first want to take off the valve cover, this will allow you to see the cam chain, and maintain taking UP the slack when you remove the tensioner.

I say remove, because aside from the rubber plug at the end, you can also have oil leaking from the paper gasket that the tensioner housing is mounted on the head with. Also, there is a small O-ring under the locking nut/bolt combo that can also leak, and so taking it out provides the easiest way to R-R the tensioner and housing.

However, if you've read Trbig's thread about being defeated by Bohn Frazier's machine and the resulting bent valves that ensued, you'll understand the need for caution with actually REMOVING the tensioner, vs. just doing the tensioner adjustment procedure.

I'll try to find that thread and add the link to it, worth a good reading of it and the other comments/tips that are in it! With the valve cover off, of course you can check your valve clearances and hopefully they'll all be within spec, and you won't have to worry about that process. BUT, if they are closer than spec...a little looser/wider is actual okay, and can be left alone...but if they are Too close, then you'll need to adjust the clearances to prevent burning valves....the clearances actually narrow with engine wear due to the valves hammering further into the head/seats. There's threads and such on different approaches to swapping valve shims.....the easiest without having/using the special valve tool(that sometimes works-sometimes not anyways) is to remove the cams...again a more daunting endeavor for sure...so we'll talk about that later IF the need arises!?

The "Defeated" thread talks about ways to take up the resulting cam chain slack when the tensioner is removed. Taking out the tensioner can also help you to see how worn/how much slack is already being taken up by the tensioner, and if you have much distance left in the tensioner travel. If you have plenty of room in the plunger travel...verified by after FIRST doing the basic tensioner adjustment procedure, then removing it, marking where the plunger is, and then loosening the lock nut/bolt and seeing how much more travel the plunger will move will reveal it's remaining adjustability, and whether a new cam chain may be in order soon or not!? How many miles on the engine?? I would think if close to 50K or over that it might be nearing the chain replacement phase...but then again I did my top end rebuild in 2000 with an estimated 50K on mine and I didn't replace the chain, and have been able to perform a few more adjustments since, but I've only put on about 12K more miles since the rebuild...babying the little big bore kit...not a daily rider!!

BTW, the XV920 float needles are for a VIRAGO, that will help you find them, not by the above #...that's just the bike model number!

Others will chime in once you've read that thread and replied with more questions!
T.C.

Tods Got Defeated thread:
http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...light=defeated

[CA]

Mileage

My odometer only reads about 15k miles...I got it on 12k. So I will turn the crankshaft to "c" and remove the tensioner correct? Should i go ahead and replace all the gaskets in it? I still need to purchase the rubber plug. Also is Yamaha dealership the best place to get those half moon things? Can I use gasket in a tube for the valve cover or should I order one of those as well? Just trying to get my shopping list together...


I will read up on that thread probably tomorrow and see what I need to do. I am going to try and check my clearences tomorrow after church.

thanks topcat

heres a better photo showing the handlebars...

[DenyP]

Just a warning to help you avoid much frustration with the tensioner. If it is leaking oil and the rubber plug is gone, you may need to do more then just replace the plug and gaskets. B-sure to do a search of the forum and read the posts regarding this repair.

Deny

[dbeardslee]

CA - XV920 fuel valves can be had at Partsnmore for $8 ea. Part#48-1437

[TopCatGr58]

Hey CA,

PNM also sells the valve cover gasket along with the half moon rubber plugs. The valve cover is rather intricate in design, and can be a bother and floppy trying to use/make it out of roll gasket material. However, others have used the liquid forma gasket type stuff with great success....without any paper gasket .....YMMV.

Being that this is supposed to be a winter project,hopefully you won't be in too much of a hurry. As I stated in the 3rd paragraph of my previous verbose reply, there's more to be cautious about when actually REMOVING the tensioner housing, vs. just doing the adjustment, and so that's why I provided that link to Tod's thread so that you could read in detail about what went wrong, and what the collective have come up with to try to prevent this from happening to others that REMOVE the tensioner! So...please take the time to read that thread before attempting to remove the tensioner.

Here's hoping your clearances are all within spec or just slightly OVER, not under!
T.C.

[DGXSER]

Hey CA, I also was pretty nervous about removing my cam chain tensioner. I bought the self adjusting model and still lamented over weather I would replace it because of my fear of bending valves trying to upgrade the thing. Anyway, I made sure I was on the center stand, turned the engine over a few times and stopped at the C mark, then pulled the tensioner out. Put the replacement back in, and slooowwlly turned the engine over a few times by hand prior to touching the start button. Not a crunch or noise to be heard.

As to gaskets, I have hand cut that valve cover gasket before and it does suck and is a PITA. The gasket drawings on the UK site would make it ALOT easier, but even then I would either buy one or just use gasket in a tube fo your choice. On my project bike, every pan I have pulled incuding the valve cover went back on with black RTV. Not a leak one out of any of them.

[CA]

A lot to think about...

Well Top Cat I am no longer in a hurry..haha. Sunday afternoon I read pretty much the whole thread and was scared but learned a lot. (Wishing I had a centerstand!) And as I embark on that journey I will definately take a lot of time and be posting here like crazy. I decided to wait on pulling the valve cover and checking the clearances mainly because it was 30 degrees outside and my front porch is my ad hoc garage right now, (I know it sounds redneck, but in my case its ghetto) So I may collect all the parts I need, before I embark on the task of tearing her totally up.

As I do collect all the parts I need help me on my list so far and see if i am forgetting anything...

Partsnmore:
1. Valve cover gasket
2. 2 half moons
3. 4 xv90 valves

Yamaha:
1. rubber end for tensioner
2. Paper gasket for tensioner?

Home Depot:
1. rubber ring for tensioner

I also was still wandering about my clutch and throttle cables needing to be shorter (come to think of it I suppose the casings do as well) Should I just buy new ones of those as well?

FYI I will be swapping out my oil pan as it is leaking, and using the gasket in a tube stuff, but for some reason I am worried about the valve cover so may just get one.

After having read that long thread I know realize how noobish I was posting a picture saying what the hell is this thing on the front of my engine.

Thanks for helping a novice.

[DGXSER]

As I do collect all the parts I need help me on my list so far and see if i am forgetting anything...

Partsnmore:
1. Valve cover gasket
2. 2 half moons
3. 4 xv90 valves

Yamaha:
1. rubber end for tensioner
2. Paper gasket for tensioner?

Home Depot:
1. rubber ring for tensioner

Consider adding plastic floats in place fo the brass ones. I would just make the tensioner gasket, the templates on the UK forum make it a snap to make that one.

I also was still wandering about my clutch and throttle cables needing to be shorter (come to think of it I suppose the casings do as well) Should I just buy new ones of those as well?

IF the length will nto work, you will need to buy new ones, no way I know to alter them without more time effort and cost than the new ones.

FYI I will be swapping out my oil pan as it is leaking, and using the gasket in a tube stuff, but for some reason I am worried about the valve cover so may just get one.

As stated before, I have used black RTV for both with great success, and I am not alone on that. Up to you. No idea why one would scare you though.

After having read that long thread I know realize how noobish I was posting a picture saying what the hell is this thing on the front of my engine.

Thanks for helping a novice.

We were all novices at some point, and learned by the more knowledgable pointing the way for us. So no problem!!

[CA]

quick update

Well the highs have been about 30 degrees around Nashville so I haven't been able/wanting to get out and work on the bike. Not having a garage really sucks. Thats why I wanted to ask, would it be rather easy and helpful to just pull the engine so I could bring it inside and work on it? Probably not but I thought I would check...

Guess I could do it little by little and maybe get hand warmers...ha