My XS11 Project - Juggernaut

[TomRodgers]

Some of the electrical guru's will probably chime in...but from what i have read, with the in line resistors, yes they will work, but have roughly the same draw on the system....better solution is to pop for the electronic flasher unit. but everything else sounds good!!

[MrFreeze5]

Some of the electrical guru's will probably chime in...but from what i have read, with the in line resistors, yes they will work, but have roughly the same draw on the system....better solution is to pop for the electronic flasher unit. but everything else sounds good!!

True, and I will eventually. Once I get the thing together and running, then I will start timming down the harness and consolidating things, at that point I will probably upgrade to an electronic flasher.

I am adapting a lot of the parts from my various spare FZR wiring harnesses and I may ba able to use the flasher unit off of it if the stock XS one wont work. The stock FZR flasher unit works with LED signals fine. My FZR hybrid has only LED signals and did not actually need the resistors, they still work with the stock flasher unit, even with a lower draw. Im already taking the fusebox and main fuse and probably starter relay from the FZR, why not the flasher too?

Come to think of it, Im pretty sure I have a 05 R6 flasher unit around here somewhere too.

[Mathh]

So was the headlight on/off switch an option then? I definately dont have one on my switch box, so i am assuming its like every other bike Ive owned and they come on automatically.

That is different per country. I know the US bikes do not have the on/off switch. They usually have the light coming on automatically and some also have a reserve lighting system. The european bikes all have the on/off switch and none have the reserve lghting system. Don't know about other countries, depends on legislation.. You can use the euro switches but you need to get power from somewhere within the headlamp shell.

[MrFreeze5]

That is different per country. I know the US bikes do not have the on/off switch. They usually have the light coming on automatically and some also have a reserve lighting system. The european bikes all have the on/off switch and none have the reserve lghting system. Don't know about other countries, depends on legislation.. You can use the euro switches but you need to get power from somewhere within the headlamp shell.

That was what I was thinking. I know that most bike in the US do not have a on/off switch, but this is the oldest bike I have owned and did not know if it predated that or not. Thanks for the calrification. I dont need to wire in a kill switch for the lights, but I will be removing the reserve lighting unit for sure. I might even end up with no switches on the bars, I havent decided yet. Im not totally sold on the throttle I got and might go with an internal throttle

[daveyg]

This project gives me a stiffy. Is that wrong?

[subike]

That was what I was thinking. I know that most bike in the US do not have a on/off switch, but this is the oldest bike I have owned and did not know if it predated that or not. Thanks for the calrification. I dont need to wire in a kill switch for the lights, but I will be removing the reserve lighting unit for sure. I might even end up with no switches on the bars, I havent decided yet. Im not totally sold on the throttle I got and might go with an internal throttle

Thant a bit of infromation that I did not know before today,
All NewZealand, Australian, British XS1100's come under the same commonwealth rules for the motor industry.
So all are fitted with a three point switch on the right han control block.
The 3 point switch for the lights, off/park lights/head lights.
The power for the switch comes from the headlight IRRC.
Some of the STD's ha the front flasher lights wire in as marker lights,
these were twin fillimint bulbs, the lower wattage being the marker lights.
Not all of mikes XS switch blocks have a proviso fro the light switch so those woul be compatabile with the american wireing .

But this does make me wonder if the Canadian new XS11's had this switch, as they are a commonwealth country

[MrFreeze5]

I think I am going to go with a 08-09 Hayabusa switch pod for the left side. Its got the signal, horn, and hi/lo, and also has a hazards button. The 07 and earlier had a hazard switch on the right side, but I dont want to mess with that. Only problem is the 08-09 ones are still pretty pricey. Maybe come spring they will be cheaper after people have had a chance to wreck them.

Im still undecided on the right controls. I dont like the throttle I got, its plastic. I want something sturdier, so I am looking into other options, so the right switch pod is up in the air as well.

[MrFreeze5]

My CF fairing finally showed today. First thing I noticed is that my turn signals wont work with it, they hit in multiple places, so I need something with a longer, thinner stalk. I also need to make a tab for one of the mounts on the fairing. Im pretty happy with it overall. Still needs some tweaking, but I think it will do. I moved the bike to have more room to work on it and cant really get a good angle on the front, so this is the best I can do right now.

[MrFreeze5]

Nice to see things develop! Hope your M18 nut will not interfere with the U-joint. You definitely need a flat one
I left the axle on that end blank and used an M8 thread on the inside. That way I only needed to drill a hole with the diameter of the axle in the other pivot mount steel plate, then lock the axle with a washer and flat M8 bolt.
Keep up the good work!

I keep going back to this. Im just not seeing it. My Ujoint isnt anywhere near my pivot axle. It looks like I will need to clearance the left frame a bit, but not much really. And I dont think I will need to trim my pivot axle at all either. That is unless you had to open up the hole for the driveshaft and move it way inboard, but it doesnt look like it from the pics, and that much angle would be bad for the final drive. Keeping the driveshaft relatively straight should keep the Ujoint and pivot within a similar distance to stock, maybe a little less since the swingarm is slid right a bit. I think worse case scenario, I might have to grind down the extra threads on the pivot bolt after the nut is tightened down, but I dont think I will need any more room than that.

Of course this theory could go to hell once I have the engine in

I made the pivot mount out of a piece of flat steel, but wasnt happy with the final product just using a grinder. It sucks with no workspace to speak of. Plus, I want to thread the thru hole for the pivot instead of just a pass through hole. M18x1.5 taps are pretty damn $$ and I may never use it again, so I sent my template to my machinist so he can mill the whole thing out and tap the hole for me as well as countersink the right side for two purposes. One will be to help insert the pivot bolt during installation, and there may be just a bit of the flat portion of the axle sticking out past the swingarm, so I dont want the threads to bottom out before it its tight. Should end up costing me less than the price of the tap though, but it will probably take about 2 weeks to get back to me.

[MrFreeze5]

Almost fits! The swingarm still needs to shift just a bit to the right, and Im going to grind liberally on the inside of the left frame pivot mount. Looks like it will clear the pivot bolt just fine. I still need to hook together the FJR and XS yokes, but for clearance purposes, it doesnt really matter right now.

[MrFreeze5]

I got my swingarm pivot plate today. Its milled out of 3/8" steel and threaded through for the pivot axle. Im going to gusset and brace the hell out of it. I think it will do nicely. Ill have the monoshock mounting mocked up in the next few days too. I still need to shave the frame a little and then it will be ready to weld up.

[vileneeds]

How is this project going?

[subike]

Looking at that plate it looks nice, but it concerns me that you are transfering the pressure point from the origonal position, where there is substantial strength in the frame , moving it inboard where that same stress is going to be placed upon but two cross bars. I read that you are going to brace the point, but I think there will be a heap of stress, thus flex going on in that region. The XS frame flexes enough standard, without imparting different loads onto it like you seem to be doing. I would be watching very often for stress fractures and bent cross tubes once this is all togeather. I dont want to put a damper upon your project, as it looks awsome. Just hope you are aware of the change in stress loads you are putting on your frame.

[xschop]

stressin

If He triangulates from the plate to the upper tube and even throw in a plate near the bottom, he will wind up with a mega strong frame in that area. This is the weakest point in the XS11 frame IMHO.
Hey Freeze, what have you decided as far as shaft extension design is concerned? I already finished designing and machining a precision 30mm thick locating spacer/adapter for the Middle drive. I asked mathH about the extended middle shaft he had made, but no reply (he's busy I see)

I see a way that the entire middle drive can be left intact and the end of the splined shaft cut down about 8-10mm and a 1-piece adapter made that goes between the factory middle drive and the middle drive gear located in the case. This would not require removing the 90* pinion gears and having to reset backlash/whatnot.

[jimbyjimb]

That looks like it will be one sweet ride!