Steering bearing replacement

[dontlikeoc]

It turned out that I need to replace the steering head bearings on my Special. The fiche shows two bearings.

http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/1981-yamaha-motorcycle-xs1100sh/o/m8246

1) Do they both need to be replaced? (are both #1 and #2 used at all?) Or, for US models, is it only part #1 that (is used and) needs replacing?

2) Do I need any special tool for this job?

I dont have a work space where I can leave the bike taken apart so I want to have the parts and tools ready when I take it apart...

[trbig]

Bearing #1 is on the top side of the triple tree and bearing #2 is on the bottom. Yeah, they'll both need replaced.

I've never replaced them, but seems I remember it was simply put a jack under the bike to support the front, take off the brakes and speedo cable, take that center bolt out of the top of tree and take off the double nuts under it, loosen the two pinch bolts on each shock.. and the assembly should drop down.. with maybe some innitial persuasion with a rubber hammer on top of the shocks.

Seems I remember people having a bit of problems getting the bearing races out of the triple tree, but couldn't recommend a special tool for that.

Seems I have seen better prices for buying the bearings on Ebay recently than what you'll find at Bikebandit. They are named aptly.

Good luck... and if I have forgotten something, you guys feel free to point the error of my ways... like ignition wires and such..

Tod

[rpgoerlich]

Ditto what Tod said.
I think I paid just under $38 delivered for a set of AllBalls bearings and seals.

The top race comes out pretty easy. As did the bearing. With it out first you have a bit more room in the top of the steering neck to work.

The bottom outer race and bearing took a little more persuasion. There are 2 indentions inside the steering neck so you can line up your drift punch and be able to tap out the bottom race. That still didn't leave much meat to hit on my special. I ended up using my dremel to just about cut through the race. One I tapped it, it fractured and came right out.

The lower bearing came right apart and revealed the inner race. I had to cut almost through the lower inner race on the triple tree, once tapped it fractured and came right off as well

I used the old races, inner and outer to drive the bearings and races back on.
Don't forget to put the seals back in.

[dontlikeoc]

Thanks, Tod and Richard, for good pointers. I will start shopping for the bearings. Hopefully, I wont need a dremel...

[Lunatic]

bearing races

to get the race out of the neck, it is VERY handy of you have a wire feed welder. 110 flux core works even. Just run a bead abound, right on the face of the race, it'll pull the race in smaller and will fall right out. I have done this several times and it works SLICK.
If you don't have a wire feed welder, then a long punch from the other sided (From the top for the bottom race, and from the bottom for the top race) is about the only way. Boyy-howdy the wire-feed-welder method works good though.

[fredintoon]

2) Do I need any special tool for this job?
I don't have a work space where I can leave the bike taken apart so I want to have the parts and tools ready when I take it apart...

Hi dont,
You can tear down the steering head, inspect the bearings, clean, repack with grease, reassemble and adjust at the kerbside in less than a day.
It's removing the bottom inner cone & rollers from the lower triple tree and getting the upper and lower outer cones out of the frame that takes garage-level effort and the possible use of a MIG welder.
Are you sure the bearings are fritzed? I don't see how you can be sure unless you have taken the steering head apart and examined the races.

[Pat Kelly]

A slick (and inexpensive) tool to install both bearing races is a bearing press.
A piece of all-tread (threaded rod) that is longer than the steering tube, 2 nuts, and 2 washers larger diameter than the races. Assemble in this order (you may already see where this is going):
-nut
-washer
-race
-motorcycle
-race
-washer
-nut
Tighten the nut(s) to draw the races into the steering head. Aligns them and no jarring from pounding them back in.
This tip is from working on bicycles.

[Athedra]

By rule of thumb, if you have it out, replace everything. Top and bottom. I seem to agree. Mine is still running on the original set and dont seem to give me any hassles. How sure are you that yours need replacement?. Did the double nut not just maybe come loose and your yoke feels loose?

[Schming]

Tapered bearings & races...

You can find these at xjbikes.com for the XJ11 but I don't know for certain they fit Specials. I used the tapered in my XJ750 from Chacal and it's like new again. HCP1913 Aftermarket tapered roller bearings STEERING HEAD BEARINGS AND SEALS KIT, for all XJ700, XJ900RK, and XJ1100 models. Contains upper and lower tapered roller bearings, matching races, and an upper and lower dust seal. Note that originally, no dust seals were used on these models, and we feel it is a worthy upgrade to install these seals!
$ 31.00
HTH

[dontlikeoc]

The reason I think I need the new bearings is because a shop said so. They pointed it out along the obviouses such as rear tire and fork seals. (they didnt even mention the stripped oil filter bolt. I dont think they would have mentioned steering bearing if not so bad).

What are the signs to go by to determine whether you need new steering bearings? In the past, with my 1984 GL, I thought the steering bearings felt loose but two shops said they are in a good shape. So, I am horrible to judge that myself. Besides my XS cannot be ridden until the front brake calipers are overhauled.

[Schming]

Test...

Sometimes if You sit on the bike and hold the front brake then rock the bike back and forth you might feel the play in the triple tree or elevate the front wheel (engine off on centerstand) and with two fingers on either grip rotate steering lock to lock to see if You feel any notchniness. HTH

[DGXSER]

Put th ebike ont he centerstand, have someone lean on the back of th ebike, or somehoe get the front end off the ground. Check for movement by grabbing the wheel and seeing if the forks move front to back at all. As stated, move the front end just off of center, it should roll over to the lock on its own and be smooth. Any movement or notchiness in the movement is a sign of bearing issues. Sometimes the movement is just needing to retorque/adjust the bearing lock bolts at the top of the stem.

Here is a good site I have found for how to check out different components of the bike.

[dontlikeoc]

Can leave the forks on, right?

I have the brake calipers off now. I am taking off the forks sometime this week, too. I notice that the Yamaha manual says that you take the forks off to do the steering bearing change. I want to make sure that, if I decide not to change the steering bearings now, I can do it from the top end without having to take off the wheels and forks again.

It would be great if somebody could confirm my understanding.

[bikerphil]

You can only change the top bearing without removing the forks. To get to the lower, everything has to come apart. The lower bearing gets the most wear. It bears all the weight.

[dontlikeoc]

Phil,

Thank you for correcting my understanding. You saved me from having to redo things agan. The bearing - taking them out - race seems tricky. I have to decide if I should really do it myself...