Throttle Sticking

[Kmccaslan]

I need some pointers. My throttle is gummy. I originally thought I was having idle issues, I believe there are still some small idle issues, but my throttle is definitely sticking. It feels gummy. When I open it up it slowly twists back to its start position, rather than snapping back. If you guys could give me some pointers on this that would be great.

[bikerphil]

If you take the housing apart, grease up the innards. Also put some grease on the handlebar so the plastic sleeve moves freely. Make sure the end of the grip is not binding against the bar end when installing the housing. Adjust outward if needed. Lube the cable and a couple shots of silicone on the carb return springs, you should be good to go.

[yamahansolo]

grease it good!!!
also my bike has open ended grips because i have tapered bar ends sometimes they grips stick to the edge of it. you could also take of the sleeve and put wd 40 on the handle bar maybe that would help...

[Kmccaslan]

what do i grease the innards with? WD 40 as well or something else?

[bikerphil]

I use bearing grease inside the housing and under the throttle sleeve. Silicone spray down the cable.

[madmax-im]

My experience with WD40 is that over time it causes rust and it also does not stay lubricated...better off using 3 in1 oil or white lithium grease.

[XSokieSPECIAL]

I need some pointers. My throttle is gummy. I originally thought I was having idle issues, I believe there are still some small idle issues, but my throttle is definitely sticking. It feels gummy. When I open it up it slowly twists back to its start position, rather than snapping back. If you guys could give me some pointers on this that would be great.

Is it the handle/grip sticking or is it the cable?

[MrFreeze5]

Ive tried using grease before on my throttle, but its just too thick and was still slow and I didnt like it. I lubed my cables and then used a squirt of the cable lube on the bar and slid the throttle back on. Its worked fine for several thousand miles so far. Afterward my throttle was REALLY snappy, so I kinda mashed my grip between the bar end and the throttle housing so it sticks ever so slightly, so that way if I adjust my hand, my RPMS dont drop suddenly by accident.

[motoman]

WD-40, grease............your just asking for problems! First check and make sure throttle tube and assembly is NOT on bar too far. Next, take it off, clean it out spraying with Brakekleen, make a couple wraps around bar with some fine emory paper and "work" it a bit. Tube assembly and bar clean, re-install and leave dry. Take throttle cable off and spray Brakekleen down it till what runs out is fairly clean. While off and hanging gradually squirt very fine oil(sewing machine type) down housing till it runs out other end. Let hang till excess runs out, install and ride! Problem is cable is inside seperate plastic housing and this housing WILL swell with some lubricants. WD-40 is NOT a lubricant, repeat......NOT a lubricant and will cause more problems than it solves eventually. Don't ask how I know. Just that I've had it verbalized to me after the fact. Put a set of fully adjustable Heli-Bars on my Venturer, same as the ones on my 92ST1100 using just a hint of silicone spray. Bad mistake as the shiny black powder coat started balling up and that is pretty much an excellent durable finish. Had to remove throttle assembly, emory cloth to remove paint till shiney, cleaned and dry, works like a new one. Got alot of other past years experiences not involving paint, but still similar throttle situations that thinking lube of some sort would solve it.........will for a bit, but cleaning and left DRY is what has been needed every time. When it comes to moto-cross and dirt bikes, the above prcedure is a MUST! Applys to our rides also.

[fredintoon]

what do i grease the innards with? WD 40 as well or something else?

Hi mac,
WD40 IS NOT A LUBRICANT! It's for spraying on electrical stuff to displace any water that is there.
Here's what to do for a sticking throttle cable.
Remove it from the carb operating quadrant and from the twistgrip.
Check the carb butterflys that they snap back closed when you open them by hand.
Check the twistgrip that it turns freely.
If both ends of the system work OK it gotta be the cable itself. Now is not the time to be cheap. Go buy a proper cable lubricator and a spraycan of genuine cable lubricant and squirt the cable until the lube comes out the other end.
Check the cable that it moves freely. If the cable don't free up after being lubricated, it's hooped; get a new one.
If it's OK put everything back together.
If everything worked nice when separated but stiffens when together you have an assembly problem &/or the cable is pinched or restricted.