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Will This Work?

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  • Will This Work?

    I've checked the clearances on my valves, and they need the shims replaced to have the proper clearance, and I don't have the special tool. With the two dots on the cam shafts aligned on the cam cap arrows (actually the exhaust dot is slightly forward of the cap arrow) on each cam sprocket I could place a cable tie through atleast three places and tighten the chain to the cam sprocket, I would hope that this would stop the chain from slipping on the sprocket, then I could undo the cam caps and lift up the cams and get out the shims for replacement??? Sounds a bit too easy doesn't it? Also do I need to be aware of the cam chain comming of the bottom or anything else?

    Do you think this would work, or are there too many forces pushing against the cam when i loosen it?

    Any advise is appreciated.

    Cheers

    Lou 81 1.1 RH
    Last edited by beemeerr11; 11-11-2009, 07:15 AM.

  • #2
    I think your making it harder then it needs to be, line up the dots, remove the tensioner, tie something through the chain so you don't drop it and remove the cams. Then change all your shims and reassemble, take your time and work carefully and you won't have any problems. When you think you've got it all back together properly turn it over slowly with a wrench a few times, if it feels like it get stuck don't force it, you messed something up so start over.....
    1979 xs1100 Special -
    Stock air box/K&N Filter, MAC 4-2 exhaust, Bad-Boy Air horn, TC fuse box, Windshield, Soft bags, Vetter Fairing, Blinkers->Run/Turn/Brake Lights, Headlight Modulator, hard wire GPS power

    Short Stack - 1981 xs1100 Standard - lowered for SWMBO.

    Originally posted by fredintoon
    Goes like a train, corners like a cow, shifts like a Russian tractor, drinks like a fish, you are gonna love it.
    My Bike:
    [link is broken]

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    • #3
      Some people do it that way I prefer to use the tool though. The tool is really inexpensive and easy to use when you get used to it.

      If you loosen the caps make certain you have done your math correctly as to which shim you need or you'll be doing it all over again. that is why I prefer using the proper tool. If you miscalculate its only 1 bolt with the tool, the other way its 10 nuts & washers.

      If you do loosen make sure you retorque properly. When I first got my XS they were all loose and one had fallen completely off probably because the PO had attempted this and hadn't retorqued properly.

      IMHO

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      • #4
        When I do mine I just loosen the bolts on the caps such that I can raise one side up higher than the other. I set the cams (prior to loosening the bolts, turning the crank with the timing plate bolt) so the side I want up has the cams pointed away from the valves on the side I'm changing. You don't have to completely remove the bolts - just loosen them farther on the side you're working on so the cam shaft 'pops up' at an angle. That will give you enough clearance to remove and install the shims. Then tighten them back down, rotate the crank until the cams are 'reversed' and do the other side. To get the shims out you usually have to put a small screwdriver in the slot and give it a little tap with a small hammer. As far as I'm concerned the shim tool is a waste of money - sometimes they work, and sometimes they don't. My $.02
        I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.

        '79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines

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        • #5
          I will vote with Mr. Beardslee. I have owned a couple of those tools and in the time it takes to install it on one shim basket, I can have four of them out on the same side of the engine. No worries about the cam chain or anything along that line.
          The Old Tamer
          _________________________
          1979 XS1100SF (The Fire Dragon)
          1982 650 Maxim (The Little Dragon)
          another '82 650 Maxim (Parts Dragon)
          1981 XS1100SH (The Black Dragon)

          If there are more than three bolts holding it on there, it is most likely a very important part!

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