New front M/C

[TomRodgers]

Hey all. I must be doing something wrong.... Brand new MC... added fluid, thumb over hole....small pump(not more than 1/2 inch) let thumb off, air shot out. cover hole, release lever. repeat process until fluid came out hole (bout 3 times). connected all lines. Installed speed bleeders. attempted to pump lever...and not much fluid moving down the lines..... pumped about 30-40 times and the only thing that happened was some air bubbles coming INTO the mc thru the tiny hole...not the big one (is this the infamous spooge hole?). did notice a drop of fluid from the front "joint splitter". do i just keep pumping until its done, or should i back the speed bleeders out and let gravity do its thing for a while? any suggestions?

[redbone]

SEE if you can round up a vaccum pump and suck it thru from the caliper. and make sure that miniscule spooge hole is clean. pull a wire out of a wire brush and run it thru the spooge hole.

[cywelchjr]

Hey all. I must be doing something wrong.... Brand new MC... added fluid, thumb over hole....small pump(not more than 1/2 inch) let thumb off, air shot out. cover hole, release lever. repeat process until fluid came out hole (bout 3 times). connected all lines. Installed speed bleeders. attempted to pump lever...and not much fluid moving down the lines..... pumped about 30-40 times and the only thing that happened was some air bubbles coming INTO the mc thru the tiny hole...not the big one (is this the infamous spooge hole?). did notice a drop of fluid from the front "joint splitter". do i just keep pumping until its done, or should i back the speed bleeders out and let gravity do its thing for a while? any suggestions?

Go slow. I found that if I pump either of my MC's quickly, if there is any air in the lines they seem to pick up more, but if I squeeze, hold for a second and then release, it seems to work better.

[CatatonicBug]

Remove the speed bleeders until the fluid is squirting out the hole. They create too much pressure to start the system with sometimes.

[DGXSER]

pumped about 30-40 times and the only thing that happened was some air bubbles coming INTO the mc thru the tiny hole...not the big one (is this the infamous spooge hole?). did notice a drop of fluid from the front "joint splitter".

Yep, that is the "spooge" hole. fluid coming out at the splitter may be your problem though, if fluid can come out, air can go in and will. May need new copper crush washers there, they can be heat treated for reuse per a resident mechanic named Ivan.

[TomRodgers]

Okay....
Took the speed bleeders off...let gravity do its thing for a bit...then put the old bleeders back in. pumped a couple of times, and released bleeder..did this about a dozen times on each side...then....drip ...drip...drip.... from the splitter assembly. took my socket to it, and tightened it down until i thought it was going to snap off. still a drip drip drip.... all new crush washers. but the new ss lines seem to have a different thickness of 'ends' on them. like the hole on banjo bolt is directly in line with the middle crush washer. any ideas? maybe filing down the bottom crush washer a bit???

[Rasputin]

Could try doubling up the crush washers to get things lined up right. Positioning would depend on where it lines things up best for yours.

[Athedra]

Unfortunately I bleed bike brake systems daily. Here is how we do it:

First remove your pipe completely. Putt your finger on hole coming out of your MC. Pump until you get good pressure from it. This makes sure you have no funnies in your MC. Keep the lever pulled in, and fit your Top banjo. Now close the Pipe at the bottom between your fingers. Now here you keep pumping until you get good pressure. Your fingers wont be able to hold the pressure while pulling the lever. Pump it slowly, so that it gives the bubbles enough time to get together and become bigger air bubbles. When you have good pressure at the bottom of your pipe, keep the lever in and connect you bottom banjo. Now pump it until you feel the pressure building up, keep the lever in and release the last bit of air through your bleeder. Normally needs about 4 openings to be perfect.

If you dont want to go through the whole thing, disconnect your banjo at the bottom, and let it hang in a bowl full of Brakefluid. Pump it till no more bubbles comes through. You will not get pressure yet. Then while holding the lever in, close the bottom between your fingers and pump till you get pressure. Then same as above.

Enjoy, I see many customers come in with their bikes after they replaced something on their bikes and cant get it bled. Unfortunately I'm the idiot needing to solve their problem.

Just for interest. Jonway was a copper washer with a rubber insert. Gives you not only a good seal like the old coppers used to, but also has the added rubber for extra sealing round the Banjo. I replaced all my banjo washers with those, and works like a charm. Don't know if they are re-use-able tho.

[Ivan]

Doubling up crush washers is a guaranteed headache.

The washers can be annealed by heating to glowing hot and quenching in water. This makes them soft enough to use again, and will more than likely solve your drip. The old school monkey wrenchers will tell you that even new washers should be annealed before use. I am not sure if its age or exposure to the atmosphere that makes them harden, or just the force of them getting squished.

[TomRodgers]

Upon further inspection..... The dual hole banjo bolt doesnt seem to fit tight to the brake line end. like the banjo bolt head is warped or something.... i will try to use a thicker crush washer with the heat treatment..maybe that will work. i may opt to get a new banjo bolt, or steal one from 'Frankenbike.

[TomRodgers]

Heat treated the washers......still have the drip. It was not very well lit in my garage this morning at 3 a.m., but i am suspecting a bad splitter joint. the leak seems to be coming from the TOP of the top line. It may be possible that the original crush washer is still stuck up in there, i will check it out this afternoon. I may go with my original plan of stealing the joint off of 'Frankenbike'.... This is starting to piss me off.

Ivan... treating the washers DID allow them to seat. when i pulled them apart this last time, i could visibly see a difference from when i first installed them and tightened it down. Thanks!! Never thought about doing that.

[Rasputin]

I am installing a set of S/S brake lines that I got from Coatsguard something on ebay. The width of the Banjo fittings is quite a bit wider than the stock ones were. This is making mine line up like I imagine yours are. I am going to buy a new banjo bolt (a bit longer one) today if i can find on in town.

[TomRodgers]

Rasputin... yep. fittings are MUCH wider than the stockers. doesnt seem to be an issue anywhere except at the spiltter joint. my bolt is long enuf, but it wont stop leaking.

i wonder if the size of the fitting (being thicker, top to bottom, and slightly larger diameter) is preventing the end from 'seating' properly in the joint? I will have to check these things out today after work.

Just a thought...am i correct in the order of pieces??? Long banjo, crush washer, line, crush washer, line, crush washer, joint.

Since mine is leaking from above the TOP line, im guessing either i missed a washer up there that isnt supposed to be there, the joint is bad, or my above mentioned theory that the end is too large for the joint....

[Rasputin]

When I compare the length of the single banjo bolt to the stockers I see a huge difference. The double banjo bolt is of course more difference. I am changing mine because the stock one just looks wrong. I believe you are correct in the order you are installing them in, as that was the order mine came off.

[DGXSER]

That is the correct order. I have the same set from Coastguard. Mine do not leak (that I have noticed). I used the stock double banjo bolt in the order Tom listed. I alos used the original crush washers as they are thinner than the new ones supplied in the kit.