$20NZ 1980 XS1100 STD 1 owner

[DGXSER]

Yep Rick, I think it is either the engine, or another gear in the tranny that was not in play in first gear. Either that or they broke whatever was stuck free already.

The way I always test an engine is to put the bike in Neutral, pull the timing cover and use an allen head socket, or a wrench to turn the engine over a few times. There you are definitely turning the crank, the cams, and the primary chain.

[Ivan]

I can work on the trans and replace any gears without splitting the cases.

I am VERY interested in how you get the main shaft out of the engine without splitting the cases. My scoot has a problem with the 4th/5th slider or the mainshaft, and I would love not splitting the cases to fix it. This is the shaft the clutch basket mounts on and the middle shift fork engages. Please share your method.

[subike]

Ivan , Im sorry I miss read your post and assumed that you meant the main cluster, not the main shaft.
Anyways attached are some pic of Pocket Change

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/at...9&d=1257918201

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/at...0&d=1257918201

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/at...1&d=1257918201

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/at...2&d=1257918201

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/at...4&d=1257918239

[TomRodgers]

Links redirect you to the KIWI homepage.....

[Ivan]

Darn. I was really hoping for some brilliance that has yet to be discovered.

Ah well. Splitting the cases is a good enough reason to drink a lot....

[daveyg]

Well, after jumping through the hoops of joining yet another web forum, from the pics, that bike is in absolutely immaculate condition, let alone the fact of 350k miles on the clicker!

[b.walker5]

When you get it going you should ride it like you stole it 'cause for 20 bucks you did.

Good find man. I wish I could find one like that down my neck of the woods.

[subike]

When you get it going you should ride it like you stole it 'cause for 20 bucks you did.

Good find man. I wish I could find one like that down my neck of the woods.

Im pulling the motor tomorow, The black one I ride hard, this one will be pampered like a baby.

[Athedra]

I used to drive alot of 2-strokes, and they are heat-seize prone. So will base my knowledge on them, might or might not be use full to you.

If the motor heat seized, I would recommend some form of temp guage on it and see that your oil flow is right. Even though the PO changed oil on a regular basis and did the whole nine yards with it, doesn't mean that the oil cooler is not clogged or on of the pipes. Could even be a bad oil filter. SO if the motor cranks now, and she fires up, get a temperature guage on it and see what she does by just idling it for about 10 minutes or so. When your oil is hot, drain it, and pull of the oil filter. I once found a mechanics rag in one of my oil filter bowls (Glad it wasn't a screwdriver or something) which restricted my oil flow tremendously. If that is all good, pull off your oil cooler pipes and see if your oil firstly gets to the cooler and secondly goes through your cooler. If it is not there, then you might have a blocked oil port somewhere on the motor. The other size of the coin (If it was a heat seize) is that all four carbs could have been to lean making it heat up to fast.

I have never lost a motor due to a heat seize, worst case scenario was a DT400 Enduro that ended up with a bad piston slap after it heat seized, but apart from that there was nothing wrong with it.

Hope you find the fault, and good luck.

[subike]

The engine is out, 2 1/2 hrs from removing the seat, to sitting the motor on the shed floor.
When I drained the oil, it was still very clean, It still had the gold tinge to it, no sign of ever being hot.
But on removal of the sump, I found quite a deposit if sand like metal in the bottom. This leads me to thinking maybe a run crank bearing, or a big end.
As I am replacing the motor, it will be some time untill I find the real cause of the "siezeure". When money allows I will take it complete to my engime man for dissasembly and inspection, then we will decide on the best approach to the repair. I intend to rebuild the motor with new internals where needed, then put her back hime where it belongs.
But
Other motor is sitting ready to put back in, just need to do a touch of cleaning of the frame rails.
So.
Along the way I have discovered why this bike is still in such good overall condition.
Every thing has a sticky coating of grease on it, at first I thought that it was just grime from the years built up on the bike, but every bolt, joint, shaft, bracket wire connection bolt the battery box, fuse box, underside of the tank, all have a coating of a "dry" grease under which is clean bright paint.
I thought that upon dismantling, I would have to refurbish the frame, find siezed bolts, that would snap, hardened electric block connections,which would crumble, all those things that would normally be found on a 30 yr old ride,nope. everything is still remarkably good.
Even the headder bolts spun off with little resistance.
The origional fuse box is still there and all conections sweet
So as a testiment to the PO, he prepared this bike well for a long life.
Apart from the obvious wear points from boots and chips from stones a bit of surface rust on the crome, its just a really good clean to bring her back to a very nice condition.
The jouney continues

[DGXSER]

JAT, I have heard/read more than once of the clutch friction disc disintegrating and becoming a sandy mess in the oil pan. Is it possible that is what you found?

[subike]

JAT, I have heard/read more than once of the clutch friction disc disintegrating and becoming a sandy mess in the oil pan. Is it possible that is what you found?

nice thought sir, but no, I have just come in from the shed after slotting the spare motor into place, as part of the change over I used PC's clutch complete, did this because I changed the clutch cover to keep it looking as it did when I got her. All the plates were in good condition, so no, this was metal not fiber in the sump pan.
Its time for me to finish for today, tomorrow will involve changing over the left side covers, stripping the carbs, cleaning and setting them up on the bike connecting all the electrikery bits, tossing the exhaust back on, fill her with oil, then with some fresh fuel, I just might get to try and fire her up.
All going well, it will be a short ride on sunday.
One week from dead to alive , thats my aim

[b.walker5]

nice thought sir, but no, I have just come in from the shed after slotting the spare motor into place, as part of the change over I used PC's clutch complete, did this because I changed the clutch cover to keep it looking as it did when I got her. All the plates were in good condition, so no, this was metal not fiber in the sump pan.
Its time for me to finish for today, tomorrow will involve changing over the left side covers, stripping the carbs, cleaning and setting them up on the bike connecting all the electrikery bits, tossing the exhaust back on, fill her with oil, then with some fresh fuel, I just might get to try and fire her up.
All going well, it will be a short ride on sunday.
One week from dead to alive , thats my aim

Hey, careful, or I might have to start talking Breach of copyright

[subike]

She lives, Pocket Change has a heart beat,
I put fuel and oil into the bike tonight, hit the starter and it back fired .
huh, plug leads were the same as the other motor, what gives.
So I reversed the plugleads, 2 > 1 / 3 > 4.
Hit the starter, after a couple of spins she fired into life.
So I took her for a short ride. sweet as, everything working perfectly Cool!
Now I have a question for you fellas.
Why would the fireing order be different between two bikes?
One english assembled,one Oceania (New Zealand) assembled.
Other than swapping the plug leads around,is there any other way of changing the firing order, as the leads are of differing lengths and as you know, are not the easiest things to change.
Rather than experimenting in the dark,
Can anyone offer any Ideas?
Oh by the way, I got air under the front wheel , opps

[b.walker5]

Just a guess at this point as I dont have time at the moment to test the theory, but put your plug wires back in the original locations and reverse the coil wires from the pickup's. The firing order is 1-2-4-3 and coil 1 fires plugs 1 and 4 together, and coil 2 fires plugs 2 and 3 together.