Electrical Frustrations (long one...)

[argonauteer]

OK, I have a '79 XS Standard. I LOVE the bike, but am a total beginner with repairs. The PPO messed with the wiring a bit, installing a couple extra 'headlights' up front (they never worked since I've had it), and the turn signals have never worked properly: L signal worked fine, but nothing with R signal. Also, when I bought the bike in June, there were non-original signals (round Suzuki ones, I think instead). So me being ignorant and wanting to dive into getting the bike up to specs decided to: 1. replace all 4 signals with OEM parts I found from different sellers on eBay, 2. replace the wiring harness (yikes!) since the original seemed jacked up and had been hacked into. ALSO, the rear brake light - with ignition on, the R bulb lights only; when L signaling, the L bulb blinks!.

OK, so after going through 3 different wiring harnesses (first 2 weren't for the Standard), I took the original out, cleaned the replacement up and put it in, making sure I closely followed the wiring chart(s). Here's what happened: when I turned the key, both front turn signals lit and stay on, as if it were the headlight; no headlight comes on, no high beam, nothing; the L signal will work (again, with the strange blinking L bulb of the brake light), but I only get a rapid clicking sound from the flasher relay when I signal R. Also, the starter button does nothing.

So then, I decide to check the connection in the original harness with a voltmeter - everything checks out fine, I figure it's not as bad as I think and re-install that one. Same thing happens.

I now have major frustrations, obviously. I want to return the bike to as close to factory specs as possible, have very little mechanical / electrical experience, but would like to do the work myself. Possible questions:
1. What is the requirement of turn signals? Do the bulbs need to be a certain type? Would that possibly cause a circuit problem?
2. Where can I find the CORRECT type of signals? I got mine on eBay and they were listed for my bike.
3. How exactly is the rear brake light supposed to work? Do both lights work together always? Are they supposed to blink when you signal a turn?
4. The bike has other issues: gas leaking from air filter, loss of power when switching gears, dragging brakes, etc. What's the best way for me to figure this out? Meaning = is this way too over my head, and are the potential mechanic fees too high to even think about taking it to a specialist?

[redbone]

your not over your head....just take small bites. fix one issue at a time.
the brakes are not difficult, every member here has had to clean them, [that's all they need].
being that you replaced the harness, i assume you had both handle bar control switches apart and found no broken wires or corrosion, that is usualyy a troublespot.
your turn sig relay may be an automotive. it will work but you have to jockey the plug to different prongs.
these ideas i posted were some i discovered when i bought mine and are very common to the xs.
hope this helps and don't be afraid to ask, somebody else has had the prob before.

rebone

[CatatonicBug]

1. What is the requirement of turn signals? Do the bulbs need to be a certain type? Would that possibly cause a circuit problem?
2. Where can I find the CORRECT type of signals? I got mine on eBay and they were listed for my bike.
3. How exactly is the rear brake light supposed to work? Do both lights work together always? Are they supposed to blink when you signal a turn?
4. The bike has other issues: gas leaking from air filter, loss of power when switching gears, dragging brakes, etc. What's the best way for me to figure this out? Meaning = is this way too over my head, and are the potential mechanic fees too high to even think about taking it to a specialist?

The bulbs must be 1157, dual filament for the front signals and brake lights. 1156 single filament for rear signals. Unless you switch out the flasher unit for an electronic model, anything else won't work for signals. If you do that, you lose the auto-cancel feature, but any have done that and switched to LED lights to save on power drain. You can use LED's in the brake lights if you get the right kind, and that won't affect anything.

All the signals are essentially the same, except for the housing shape. Standards are square and Specials are round. Any year XS11 signals will work.

The rear brake light is two bulbs that always do the same thing. They are either on "running" mode, or in the brighter "Brake light" mode. They do not blink at all. If they are blinking, you have a wire swapped somewhere with the turn signals.

Don't take it to a specialist. You have the best ones available to you right here on this site. It sounds like your carbs need more cleaning. Fuel leaking from the airbox means the fuel delivery system is not shutting off properly. This is usually caused by junk under the float needle in one or more carbs, along with the possibility of a leaky petcock. If you take your time, and research like crazy, you'll learn all you need to know right here and you'll be proud to stand back and say, "look what I did!"

[DiverRay]

As an aside,
The headlight will NOT come on until the engine is running.
Turn signals usually need the engine running to blink, as the battery will not supply the current needed. They will also stop blinking when you idle at a light. This is UNTIL you clean EVERY electrical connection on the bike, including ALL ground connections.
Read the tech tips under the XS11 INFO button on the top of the page. This should give you a better idea of what you need to do. As redbone said, focus on just one small thing at a time, fix it, and go on to the next item. You will be amazed at how fast things start to work.

[Larrym]

Standard vs Non-standard

Given your inexperience and concerns about your mechanical/electrical aptitude, I would seriously consider pairing up with another XS1100 Standard owner in your area. Not to say that the other owner will do the work for you or even assist you himself. The best resource you could have at this point is to have a working XS1100 standard as a "Standard" for reference purposes.

"Where should this wire connect?" becomes a simple matter of referring to the working bike.

Then it become a matter of copying what has already proven to work. You then don't have to know (at this point...) which way the current flows or any of the messy details.

To find someone in your area you might first put your location in your "public profile." You could also make a direct attempt to find someone by using the member locater link/thread.

There is no substitute for seeing another working model if you are having difficulties with wiring. Guesswork with the wiring (when things go wrong...) can be a real setback.

[randy]

You do have a wiring schematic don't you?! Oh, and get yourself a good service manual. Try if you can to get the genuine yamaha manual. It has more detail in it than clymer's or haynes. Mine even has a diagram of how to dress the wiring harness and control cables on the frame.

[dbeardslee]

On the turn signals coming on and staying on - they're supposed to do that in the front, but not in the rear. I think the smartest thing I've done in recent history (amid many dumb ones) was to purchase a good terminal crimper from Mikes XS, and a bunch of terminals, and redid every electrical connection I could find. I was able to get a full volt back at the TCI just by redoing the connectors. You can clean them, but lots of times you'll find the wires may have corroded back in the sheath. Cut the ends off and crimp to a 'new' wire and you'll be surprised at the results. The thing I like about the Mikes crimper is that it puts a factory double crimp on the connectors - should be good for another 30 years. Here's a pic -



Also, make sure you have addressed the connectors inside the headlight bucket. IIRC the connector that comes from the ignition switch has a blue wire in it that's for lighting. There are also several connectors behind the fuse block mounting plate. And lastly, you may want to take the handlebar switch apart and make sure it isn't grunged up. You'll find some copper contacts in there, and a pencil eraser will clean them pretty well.