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forks - separating outer/inner tubes

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  • forks - separating outer/inner tubes

    Has anybody changed the fork seals themselves on XS1100s? Is separating the outer and inner tubes alot easier than with other bikes? The Yamaha shop manual makes it sound like keeping the inner tube from spinning when you take out the allen bolt at the bottom of the outer tube will be easy.

    I once had a nightmare trying to take them apart myself on a DR650 and given up and taken them to a shop. At the time, I used a home made hex head on a rod and a special tool. I still couldnt do it.
    dontlikeoc
    1981 XS1100 Special Edition
    Alhambra, CA

  • #2
    If you have a Standard, you can make a holding tool from a bolt and 2 nuts. The Special forks don't need the tool to seperate them. Either one is no big deal. Special seal dimensions are 37X48X10.5
    2H7 (79)
    3H3

    "If it ain't broke, modify it"

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    • #3
      I've found that if you pull the damper bolts as the FIRST thing (while the spring is still installed), they come right out and you don't need a 'holder'.

      Of course, the forks promptly leak all over everything, but what the hey...

      '78E original owner
      Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

      '78E original owner - resto project
      '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
      '82 XJ rebuild project
      '80SG restified, red SOLD
      '79F parts...
      '81H more parts...

      Other current bikes:
      '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
      '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
      '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
      Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
      Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

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      • #4
        I'll be keeping an eye on this thread, because replacing fork seals is on the top of my "winter maintenance" list.

        I plan on following the manual, but my luck I'll still probably run into trouble... we'll see.
        Currently XS-less.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by crazy steve View Post
          I've found that if you pull the damper bolts as the FIRST thing (while the spring is still installed), they come right out and you don't need a 'holder'.
          You've been very lucky. Can also use an impact gun, 8MM hex for the Standards, 6MM for the Specials.
          2H7 (79)
          3H3

          "If it ain't broke, modify it"

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by bikerphil View Post
            ... Can also use an impact gun....
            Or, in the case of some, both the tool and an impact gun. I couldn't get mine out, so I took them to my local mechanic. The impact gun alone just spun the damper rod on the inside. I ended up getting a 3-4' threaded rod, tightened two nuts onto themselves till the sides line up (probably that 8mm size, as I have a Std.) at both ends, held one end with a wrench while the other end was nestled in the damper. Then, and only then, did the impact gun get those little buggers out.

            Somewhere on the site is a tip about that tool, but I can't find it right off. If you can't find it, and my description isn't clear, PM me, and I'll go into more detail if you want. The job isn't hard, and you can totally tackle it yourself. You just need to take care with it, same as anything else. Good luck.
            -Do what makes you happy.

            '79 Honda CB 750 K (2)
            '78 XS 11 E - "Rhona"
            ...and a 2nd E, for the goodies on it.

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            • #7
              Thanks for sharing your experiences. They are helpful. I ordered seals. Will see if the inner and outer tubes separate easily. Will post the result, prob. in a month or so.
              dontlikeoc
              1981 XS1100 Special Edition
              Alhambra, CA

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