opinions wanted

[mack]

Ok so this is the bike that sat out behind a garage for 18 years before I could get back to it. Anyway, I've been taking it apart and cleaning it up as I go. It's a slow process for me, but what I'm finding is that everything so far on the inside looks pristine. The out side was really bad but I've followed the threads on cleaning and polishing and I'm astounded at how everything is coming up. Someone said not to waste money on the chroming, if done right the aluminum will look as good and they were right. Lots of work but the results speak for themselves. My problem is this. I think with a carb cleaning and the frame blasted and repainted, I could re-assemble this thing and it will probably run great as is.(for a while anyway) However I'd hate to have it apart and not check on some probable failure locations (seals, gaskets, springs etc.) from the long period of sitting. I'm no mechanic, and as clint says" a man has to know his own limitations". I really don't want to tear the engine down any farther than I have to. Any thoughts on known problem area's I should address while I have the engine out. I'm aware of the 2 & 3 gear issues, but I hadn't had any problems before I had to park it and it was running like a top the day I did park it. I'm the only one who has ever driven this bike and I was very adept at dragging up the slack in the change lever before I pumped the clutch. It always shifted like an automatic even at red line or better. I'll have a look inside while the covers are off for cleaning and polishing but is there anything specific you'd look for?

[CatatonicBug]

I'd say the only things that would need an extra look are the rubber parts and the bearings. However, unless the bearings got dried out, an extra lube should be all they need. Rubber parts like the carb boots, diaphragms, shaft boot, fuel/vacuum lines, grommets, fork seals, brake system (calipers, MC's, Brake lines), etc. Also be sure that the electrical stuff is thoroughly cleaned and protected (dielectric grease or anti-sieze as needed) as you put the stuff back together. Be sure the tank isn't rusted. That's all I could think of at this point.

Good luck, and be sure to take/post pictures as you go. We like to watch the progress of these kinds of projects!

[latexeses]

Have a good look at the master cylinders and wheel cylinders. Most likely they will look like crud.
I would think about taking a good look at all of the wheel bearings too. Bearings in the triple tree. They all should probably be cleaned a re-greased. Rust is going to be your biggest enemy.
You should do a good cleaning on every electrical connection in the harness and clean every ground connection. A call to TC for a new fuse box if yours looks the least bit shady. Mine did.

Here is some good reading...

http://www.xs11.com/faqs/16-what-to-...ed-xs1100.html

Well I see I am backing up Bugs post...

Good luck on the restoration.

Rodger

[bikerphil]

Don't forget to check 1st/4th gear dogs and slots for wear. First is prone to failure also.

[trbig]

...and I was very adept at dragging up the slack in the change lever before I pumped the clutch.

Huh???


Tod

[Guy_b_g]

I think he means preloading the shifter. If you put soft pressure on the shifter prior to pulling the clutch it helps to engage the dogs and makes a smoother shift, especially on bikes with a somewhat balky shift like the XS11 has.

[DGXSER]

I will only add not to add TO Much pressure to the shift lever either before or after the shift. We all know you have to kick the shifter with a purpose to get it to go into gear, but I am in the process of replacing shift forks due to someone using them to hold the first and second gear in instead of fixing the bloody tranny. Hate to see someone cause this by accident thinking they were doing some good.

[Pat Kelly]

My E sat outside for an equally lengthy time as yours. It looked like a rusty dumpster.
I started with making sure the engine wasnt siezed by turning it by hand (it wasn't). I then bought some oil and changed that, the old oil didn't look contaminated. Then I bought a battery (cost me more than the bike did) and spark plugs. All the lights worked and the engine cranked, had spark. Next was two new petcocks and rebuild the carbs. Got that back together and to my surprize it started. Next came a front brake rebuild and the bike rolled-out on the street for tests.
This bike was dang fast!
I would ride it (quickly) a half mile down the country road we lived on but the bike would sputter and barely make it back (gascap vent hole I discovered).
I ten registered it and started riding.Front brake would gradually lock-up, I discovered this site (on Yahoo) and learned about the spoge hole in the front master cyl.
This was in 2001. I've put 50,000 or so miles on the E and aquired an LG. Only leaks I've had/have are the cam chain tensioner (both bikes) and the oil drain plug on the LG (LG has about 70,000 miles).

[Crazcnuk]

I keep having people look at my G, then say, 'Hey i know where you can get one of those for parts, cheap. It's been sitting for a long time (years) and should have a few good things on it'

I go, look, buy, spend an hour or so and I have a fully running bike, that NEEDS a few minor parts, and a tune-up, but is in no way ready for the wrecker!

So far only the 1st one I bought actually needed anything major (turned bearing). All the ones I bought for 'parts' have been in better shape, for half the money...

[daveyg]

Yeah, well I picked up mine for a grand total of $25... And completely by accident, no less. I was just looking for a good headlight bucket and the guy said, "$25 and the whole bike is yours with a title, just get the damn thing off my lot!"
I've put probably $200 into it total. We'll see how it works out, I haven't gotten it started yet. It has about 43k miles, and from what I've heard, that just means it has many more to come.

[Guy_b_g]

I will only add not to add TO Much pressure to the shift lever either before or after the shift.

I agree, thats why I said soft pressure, (and only for a second or so before the shift).

If you do it right and the dogs are in good shape, it will usually "snick" right into gear as soon as you blip the throttle and pull the clutch, and it really reduces the clunk you get during upshifts.

Try it and see what you think.

[mack]

exactly Guy B G, sorry to cause any confusion, I've been away from it for a long time so my terminology maybe suspect. I'll look it over while it's out of the frame but If it ain't broke I'm not going to fix it. Brakes, wheel bearings and rubber are a different story. Already made up my mine to replace with new.When I was 20 I was bullet proof and probably would have taken a chance but now.... my kids will be on this thing when I'm done and their lives are more valuable then mine so I'll take no chances. What I'm looking for though is a list of things to check in the engine before I reinstall.

[CatatonicBug]

What I'm looking for though is a list of things to check in the engine before I reinstall.

Make sure it goes around by hand, and check compression. That's about it.

[DGXSER]

Hey Mack,

If you have not already been through these things, I highly recommend you check the valve shims, run a compression check as stated, do the first second gear repair.

[jjwaller]

AS Guy said for shifting, but it's called Pre-load.
Put pressure on the shifter, but not enough to force it.
Then between clutch and throttle, goes up into gear without any effort.
Works perfectly and doesn't put unnecessary wear on the moving parts.
Try it.