It just stopped running.

[LVTom]

Hi, I feel lucky because I can ride my 78 Standard to work almost every day of the year in Nevada. I've had the bike over 20 years so I know a little about it's good and bad points, but yesterday on my way home the bike died at a stop light and when I hit the start button, I had nothing. The key was in the on position , the kill switch was not tripped. Anyway I pushed it to the side of Las Vegas Boulevard (Very embarrasing: usually I only see Harley's do that). So now I'm out of traffic. I turn the key on and off, there appears to be no power, no lights, no horn. So I pull the side covers and start pushing on wires around the fuse box and move up to the ignition switch. Nothing appears loose or corroded but next time I turned the key on it started.

So, this weekend I will start cleaning all the wire connections, but has anyone had any trouble with the ignition switch. I know the problem is not gone. So next time it happens what should I carry on the bike to check to see where my problem really is. Thanks in advance for your help. Tom

[randy]

Tom,

The ignition switch can corrode internally or the plug can corrode and overheat (BTDT). If you're really handy, the switch can be disassembled and cleaned, but if it's too far gone it can be replaced (partsnmore.com).

In a pinch on the road, you can pull the plug and connect the red to both the blue and the brown, that will power up the whole bike.

[Lucien Harpress]

I had this happen to me recently, everything (I mean EVERYTHING) going dead while I was riding thorugh a parking lot. Come to find out the connection on the negative terminal of my battery (the short wire that leads from the battery to the frame) snapped. Not sure if this is your problem (seeing as how you were able to get it running again), but something is more than likely on its way out.

[dbeardslee]

I had a similar problem when I first got Betsy. I'd be riding along and everything would go dead. If I jumped it, it would start, but it also started after wiggling some wires around the fuse block. Sound familiar? It wound up being the big white wire behind the fuse block. Some of the insulation had burned off of it, and it was shorting against the frame periodically. Taped it up good, and it didn't give me any more trouble. JAT

[Jerry]

Have you fitted an aftermarket fuse block? The original is notorious for failing just like you described. The 'fingers' that hold the glass fuses in place get brittle and corroded, will no longer pass current even if they look OK.

[webbcraft2150]

Did ya check the 30amp main fuse under the left cover? OEM is glass, can look good but breaks up in the cap. Replaced mine with an ATO fuse holder (dont forget to carry a spare fuse).

[LVTom]

Thanks

Thanks for all your help. I can always count on this site for the best information. I think it's time for a TKAT fusebox to start with.

[randy]

The 78 standard doesn't have a main fuse under the left cover.

[DGXSER]

Yep, I would definitely go to the fuse box from what you described.

[xs11lover]

"The 78 standard doesn't have a main fuse under the left cover.
__________________
Randy Rago"

NO

I had a 78 that acted the same way a time or two. It was behind the fuse box. I opened it all up and didn't see anything. Then it just started working again. I think it just needed some love, they get jealous when you give the specials too much attention. I sold the bike so I never had the problem again.

I have some main switches if you need one, just shipping charges.