Some ? about venture tensioner

[79XS11F]

I would agree that "soft" rubber like that which is used to make grommets would not be a good type to use but the plasticized rubber, or what ever it is that is used to make engine bearing seals should be good. Nylon may not like the heat but I'm sure there's lots of different grades of nylon as well.
Rob

[tarzan]

I agree that UHMW would work very well in an engine.It wears well and is cheap.And as was pointed out it is used commonly in engines.It is also used in industrial equipment when wear is a factor.It isn't a hard plastic, it is a tough plastic though.
But like Ivan said if the tensioner works as is in a venture as is,what is the difference in an XS?

[TADracer]

Don't think it makes a difference

I have been running a manual tensioner for years now and it is one I made up in my humble shop. The rod on mine is nothing more than a stainless steel metric carriage bolt. I did round the head off, make a slight flat in the center and polish it up on a buffing wheel. It rides nicely against the the metal plate on the chain guide and after 6 years there is absolutely no wear.

Probably the composition cover on the original tensioner is there to lessen noise transmission or something though I did notnotice any different sound after I installed my solid metal tensioner.

I know some of you guys have seen this before.

[melbxs]

There seem to be some concerns about the long term use of these tensioners. They certainly have some force behind the spring-loaded plunger.

Here's an idea that seems more sensible ...


You fit the VMAX tensioner and set it. The plunger is pushed out and the ratchet is engaged.

You then take the spring out of the tensioner. No continual pressure on the plunger, but a nice snug fit.

Tensioner never slips like a worn original is prone to do and no thread on the lock mechanism to strip.

I have taken the tensioner apart and there seems no reason for this not to work.

Have I missed something?

[cywelchjr]

There seem to be some concerns about the long term use of these tensioners. They certainly have some force behind the spring-loaded plunger.

Here's an idea that seems more sensible ...


You fit the VMAX tensioner and set it. The plunger is pushed out and the ratchet is engaged.

You then take the spring out of the tensioner. No continual pressure on the plunger, but a nice snug fit.

Tensioner never slips like a worn original is prone to do and no thread on the lock mechanism to strip.

I have taken the tensioner apart and there seems no reason for this not to work.

Have I missed something?

Yeah, then it doesn't adjust. The whole point of an auto adjuster is that it's set and forget, otherwise you may as well keep the original.

[melbxs]

Yeah, then it doesn't adjust. The whole point of an auto adjuster is that it's set and forget, otherwise you may as well keep the original.

Like DUH????

A lot of guys are looking for a tensioner that doesn't leak oil and doesn't rely on a flimsy locking mechanism that is worn and possibly stripped.

People are worried about replacing with these because the auto-adjust function is likely to cause wear.

[b.walker5]

Cant see what the issue is Were talking about a plunger that pushes against the tensioner arm,

http://www.benefiscal.co.uk/showpic....%20Ass%202.jpg

If it's an auto tensioner then how much movement is there going to be ?? and what does it matter ?? You have an engine bathed in oil with metal to metal parts all over the place. The infinitismal amount of wear thats likely to occur at this point simply isnt worth worrying about, IMHO.

[Ivan]

The only thing that should wear is the cam chain. Now, I realize this engine has been around for years and years and some or propably most have the original chain.

Chain wear comes from the pins rotating in the plates, and elongating the holes. I suppose if you were to have tension on the chain somewhere in the range of half the tensile strength of the chain, it would wear quicker.

The geometry of the tensioning system spreads the load of the tensioner plunger across most of the front side of the chain, and so, wear on the side of the chain where it rides in plastic will be negligible. The lever of the tensioning system mechanically reduces the force of the tensioner, since the furthest point of load from the fulcrum is past the tensioner. So even if the venture spring had double the force, the actual force the chain will see is a multiple much less than that.

Ultimately, if you don't want to use it, don't. Give it to someone else, I'm sure there is someone who wants one that hasn't got their hands on it yet. My engine has better than a thousand miles on it so far and have had no complaints, other than I don't get the fun of adjusting the tensioner again every time I decelerate hard. I kinda miss that....

[yamahansolo]

i don't understand why some people say you don't have to adjust the vmax one and some people say you do??? i have a vmax manual in my garage.. i'll have to go check it out and see what it says about it!

[yamahansolo]

the v max shop manual just shows how to take it apart and test it to see if it works and then how to reinstall it. they have you putting the housing in first and then the spring and bolt and stuff. i think that's differnet than what i read on here before.

[trbig]

That's the only way I've heard people talk of putting them on in here.

Has anyone ever checked into any other type of automatic adjuster? I guess it would all depend on the bolt spacing really... but maybe some of you have one of these other vehicles and could check. I was looking on Ebay and saw these as just a few of the possibilities now that the Venture adjuster seems to be getting a premium price.


Yamaha Warrior adjuster


Raptor... this looks the closest


Timberwolf.. looks to be tipped like some want


Tod

[dbeardslee]

When I was swaping tensioners on the okie SPECIAL, I couldn't help but notice, as I'm sure others did, the OEM tensioner has a nice nylon end with smooth edges, and the Venture tensioner just a steel rod with sharp edges.

I made a stock tensioner into a manual based on TadRacer's design, and I had the same concern about the end. I wouldn't try plasti dip as it will only withstand a couple hundred degrees and would probably melt. I took a neoprene washer (about 3/16" thick) and JB Welded it to the carriage bolt, and it held up fine. I have since switched to an FZR1000 automatic tensioner, and may try the neoprene trick on that as well, but not because I'm worried about wear. The FZR1000 plunger doesn't extend out as far as the stock unit, so a little added length on the plunger should get it closer to a stock unit and extend the life of the chain. Not sure how far the Venturer tensioner (hey, that rhymes ) extends into the motor, but it's something to think about.

[trbig]

You get considerably more/further extension into the motor with the Venture adjuster than the stock one.


Tod

[Ivan]

If one of you have one out on the bench and can throw a set of calipers across it, ange get me a diameter, I could possibly make some delrin caps, if the diameter is less than about 16mm.

If it is bigger than that I would have to order some more delrin, since I only have 19mm stock.

Personally though, I just put metal to metal in there, and am not worrying about it much. The chain should wear out way before the track.

[tinman905]

If one of you have one out on the bench and can throw a set of calipers across it, ange get me a diameter, I could possibly make some delrin caps, if the diameter is less than about 16mm.

If it is bigger than that I would have to order some more delrin, since I only have 19mm stock.

Personally though, I just put metal to metal in there, and am not worrying about it much. The chain should wear out way before the track.

14.45mm or .569"