@#%/#"!(&#$ Xs!!!

[strom]

Thanx, Ken. I measured the compression to see if the piston rings are OK.
I measured 8:1 on a leaky tester. If I sealed it it would be more. Factory it had 9,1:1 and on a previous measurement with a good comp. tester it had 10,5:1.

The valve seals on another pic... weird. Didn't even notice it before.

LP

[fusionking]

Just got my replacement head and valve cover today and was lookin' at it and realized that the valve guide - spring area is partially submerged in oil, so if that o-ring on the guide or the seal, WAS left out....... it could get really messy. Man I hope that is your problem Strom! Mainly a labor thing, even tho it's a PITA

[strom]

Anyone knows, do I have to pull the engine in order to take off the cylinder head?

LP

[Ken Talbot]

When I did a top-end rebuild on Tsunami a few years back, I left the engine in the frame. The head and cylinders are easy to remove solo. The only time you'll want a second set of hands is when you're trying to slide the cylinders back down over the pistons.

[strom]

Thanks, now thats a load off my mind. I can order my seals now.

LP

[strom]

Got bored today.
Removed the exhausts, header pipes, carbs, airbox, horns, valve cover, cams, and all the rest of the stuff I forgot to mention, cylinder head. Bout an hours work. #1 and #4 had lotsa oil in there. Hmmm... Only #3 spark plug has shown some normal light brown color. Others are pitch black. Cylinders are showing some rust, but due to a good compression I aint too worried.
Waiting for a friend to bring his tools and know-how to take apart the valves.

LP

PS: Its harder to take off the valve cover than the cyl. head. It can be done in the frame, no biggie. Just watch out for washers fallin into the engine.

[Shuriken]

So are you just rebuilding the head, then? (valve seals, valve seat grind, etc?

Keep us posted how it goes.

Ben

[strom]

Yep, basically. Valve seals, o-rings under the valve guides, and maybe valve guides.

LP

[TopCatGr58]

Taking apart heads/valves

Hey there Strom,

When I did my tear down/rebuild, I used a large 8" C-clamp, had a piece of pipe that I had cut a 90+ degree wedge/slot out of, used that to compress the valve springs, was able to get to the keepers thru the slot in the pipe, just was careful not to let the pipe scrape against the valve spring cylinder wall. I did not remove my valve guides, they were still in good condition, no wobbles in valves, so I didnt' replace the O-rings, until earlier in this thread, didn't even know there WERE O-rings there, just valve seals, which I did replace, and did my own valve and seat lapping. So.... I would think/hope that once you get the springs out, you will be able to check the guides for looseness, and if they aren't loose, don't replace them!?!?

Have fun, but be careful when you put the cams back in, I bent a couple of valves being stupid!!!!

T.C.

[Shuriken]

I have 29 pages of xs11 stuff (personal replies, etc) I've archived. Among that is T.C.'s complete rebuild instructions. I'm definitely going to use them when I do my rebuild.

;-)

Ben

[schpiff]

I agree

As TC said...
Do the valve seals and o rings. If the guides (arent completely worn out) ie..obvious wiggle...you will be ok. Cuz thats what seals do is keep oil out of yer cylinders

If you have access to a hand operated valve lapper would be a plus. If not do a good inspection of each valve to make sure they are doing their job. (look for any diff anywhere around each one! and check the valve seats too)

One more..or two things..get cam timing(both) right.....and adjust the cam chain soon after ya get her goin again!(minor but portant to happiness )
Before ya know it....VAROOOOM!

[strom]

Thanks guys.

TC, thats bout the extent of the "tools" my friend has.
I bent 2 valves when I screwed up cams the last time. Didn't do it by the dots on cams, but the line on the sprockets. Hell, kawa has a line, and we didn't have repair manual
Dont worry, got my cams and cranks timing right.

LP