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Cam Chain gurus needed

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  • #16
    I think it was just a tooth off at the crank

    Well, I moved the chain one tooth on each cam sprocket, and rechecked my marks. As predicted, when I put the dots dead on the pointers on top, I'm at around 5 degrees BTDC at the crank. I put the tensioner back in and set it and rolled it through a few times, but it didn't seem to make any difference on where I was hitting the marks. I tried looking at it a different way, and set the crank dead on TDC, and checked to see where the dots aligned. I think I've got it. Here's the pics - what do you guys think?

    Degree Wheel


    Intake Cam


    Exhaust Cam
    Last edited by dbeardslee; 10-17-2009, 03:31 PM.
    I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.

    '79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines

    Comment


    • #17
      If your TDC is correct, your good to go. To be safe, spin the engine by hand several times and reconfirm. This will make sure the chain is properly engaged with the crank sprocket and that nothing has moved if spinning the engine were to cause an improperly engaged chain to fully engage on the crank sprocket. Don't forget to tougue those other 2 cam sprocket bolts.
      Rob
      KEEP THE RUBBER SIDE DOWN

      1978 XS1100E Modified
      1978 XS500E
      1979 XS1100F Restored
      1980 XS1100 SG
      1981 Suzuki GS1100
      1983 Suzuki GS750S Katana
      1983 Honda CB900 Custom

      Comment


      • #18
        OH ... and yes, check the alignment after using the crank to pull the cams. The cams can't push the crank.
        Rob
        KEEP THE RUBBER SIDE DOWN

        1978 XS1100E Modified
        1978 XS500E
        1979 XS1100F Restored
        1980 XS1100 SG
        1981 Suzuki GS1100
        1983 Suzuki GS750S Katana
        1983 Honda CB900 Custom

        Comment


        • #19
          Rob - First of all, thanks for your help - I appreciate it greatly. I do, however, have a question - why do I have to retorque the cam sprocket bolts? I took the cams out of the head, but I never took the sprockets off the cams.

          Funny you should mention TDC on the degree wheel. While I was checking things, I thought I felt the bolt slip a little where I was turning the crank. I checked my marks and everything was dead on the money, and I thought "this can't be right." I put my dial indicator on the top of the cylinder and rechecked the degree wheel, and sure enough it had slipped 5 degrees. I readjusted my pointer, so what your looking at in the pics is with it reading properly, and after it had been wound through by hand half-a-dozen times. I think the bolt slip was just the motorcycle gods screwing with me .

          Just saw your last post. I've been turning things with a wrench on the bolt that's holding the degree wheel in place.
          I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.

          '79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines

          Comment


          • #20
            If you never took the cam sprockets off the cams then NO, you don't need to torque those bolts.
            Rob
            KEEP THE RUBBER SIDE DOWN

            1978 XS1100E Modified
            1978 XS500E
            1979 XS1100F Restored
            1980 XS1100 SG
            1981 Suzuki GS1100
            1983 Suzuki GS750S Katana
            1983 Honda CB900 Custom

            Comment


            • #21
              After action report

              We buttoned her up, and installed some Mikes XS green monster coils today. Steppenwolf hit the starter and she cranked right up. I synced the carbs (which were off a bit - probably due to the freshly shimmed valves) and she sounded great. I checked the timing with the degree wheel and a timing light and found it to be 5 degrees BTDC. He's got the tamper proof bolts, so we didn't mess with that - figured it was close enough for government work . We went for a test drive and she was running great, so the timing chain setup seems to be correct. From now on when I check my timing, I'm going to do it with a degree wheel - there's just no substitute for accuracy.

              Here's where I think I made my mistake. When we were removing the valve cover (which hadn't been off in 10 years) one bolt broke off at the head, and another had to be cut off. I fixed those issues, but that got me fixated on the upper part of the motor, and I paid way too much attention to getting the dots right on the marks. The other cam chains I've installed I just set the crank on the 'T' and got the dots as close as the chain would allow with nary a problem. After what I've been through this week, I'm pretty sure I'll remember that the next time .

              Thanks for all the help and suggestions. CH11 kicks butt.
              Last edited by dbeardslee; 10-18-2009, 02:51 PM.
              I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.

              '79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines

              Comment


              • #22
                Thanks guys for helping Doug get my bike back on the road and running good.
                '80 XS1100 SG
                Don't let the good times pass you by..grab all you can
                https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x_Z4cjUlIo4

                Comment

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