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  • Jardine 4-2 Exhaust

    Are the Jardine Spaghetti exhaust systems supposed to be so hard to take off and on? I replaced my engine this weekend (job still to be completed in part because of the exhaust and in part because of my stupidity in taking off the airbox) and I literally had to take each downtube out of it's collector before I could get the rest of the system off. And now it looks like I have to get them back in, and they seem to be just a friction fit into there. Is this really the way they are supposed to be? It took me over 2 hours just to get the frackin things off, and I think it's going to take longer to get them back on, and I'm worried about leaks as well.

    Any suggestions or ideas? This includes all the way up to "your an idiot, you should have done it {proper procedure} instead of what you did".

    Also if I didn't do it too wrong, what do I do to minimize leakage at the joints?

    Thanks.
    Cy

    1980 XS1100G (Brutus) w/81H Engine
    Duplicolor Mirage Paint Job (Purple/Green)
    Vetter Windjammer IV
    Vetter hard bags & Trunk
    OEM Luggage Rack
    Jardine Spaghetti 4-2 exhaust system
    Spade Fuse Box
    Turn Signal Auto Cancel Mod
    750 FD Mod
    TC Spin on Oil Filter Adapter (temp removed)
    XJ1100 Front Footpegs
    XJ1100 Shocks

    I was always taught to respect my elders, but it keeps getting harder to find one.

  • #2
    I took the same set off my 79 sf . They came off with no problem left side and right side .I didn't have to break it down to each tube.
    BDF Special
    80SG Vetter bagger 1196 Wiseco big bore kit, Mega Cycle Cams, slotted cam gears, ported and flowed head, bronze intake seats, Dyno Jet kit, Dyno coils and Mikes XS air pods, Venture cam chain adjuster,Geezer's regulator, Clutch mod, Mac 4 into 1 with custom built and tuned baffle, Oil cooler,MikesXS emulators mod.
    Dyno tuned to 98 hp at the rear wheel.

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    • #3
      Jardine 4 x 2, my experience

      Cy,
      I encountered the same situation both on teardown and re-installation. I didn't want to take them apart at the crossover either. What did the trick for me was:
      1. Remove the sidestand and extend the centerstand
      2. Elevate the front wheel about 1' off the cround (I used an engine hoist, and took the tank off to tie in to the frame)
      3. When installing, you have to turn the whole assembly diagonally to get it past the centerstand then position it in place.
      4. You may need help holding the tailpipes up while you're aligning it in the exhaust ports
      5. Once aligned and the flanges are in the studs, you can bolt up the rear and tighten everything up.
      5. Re-install the sidestand
      One nice thing about raising the front up is that the exhaust gaskets don't fall out on their own, so you don't have to fight them.
      Even so, the one pipe that cuts diagonally accross still came off the collector. If high temp rtv doesn't seal it (I think it will) I'll just put a clamp on it somehow.
      Good luck.
      OOHHhhh, don't forget to put that diagonal pipe in first if it's off the collector. DAMHIK
      1980G Standard, Restored
      Kerker 4 - 1
      850 Rear End Mod
      2-21 Flashing LED Arrays on either side of license plate for Brake Light Assist, 1100 Lumen Cree Aux Lights,
      Progressive springs, Showa rear shocks
      Automatic CCT
      1980GH Special, Restored
      Stock Exhaust, New Handlebars, 1" Spacer in Fork Springs, Automatic CCT, Showa Rear Shocks
      '82 XJ1100 (Sold)
      Automatic CCT, RC Engineering 4 X 1 Exhaust, K&N Pods, #50 Pilot Jets, YICS Eliminator. Sorely missed.

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