Stator Rotor removal

[Steptoe]

So everyone can see what is required, it is as simple as a bolt, the one you need is a 16mm standard fine thread [has a pitch of 1.5, it will also have 8.8 stamped on the head].

The only thing that will help lots, will be to grind/file the concave end off the thread [you will have to clean the thread end], to make it sit flat on the crank end so it will pull straight,load up the bolt & tap with a hammer with a piece of timber under it [you don't want metal on metal] and Bobs' your Uncle.

81xs beat me with the info in another thread but we'll put up here so everyone can know how easy it is.

[Pat Kelly]

Isn't that the same thread as one of the axle bolts? Could be used in a pinch

[Steptoe]

not quite

for some reason I also thought that ,even went and checked last night.
back axle a bit to big, front a tad to small.
I took my spare rotor into a bolt shop to make sure it was right.

[Pat Kelly]

I have the removal tool from my Honda Hawk and it fit my XS. I'm glad I keep all my tools. But..... I now have kids and a wife to lose them for me.

[psycoreefer]

distruction ensues....

well this is an old thread but I'll dig it up to put in my 2 cents.

I need to remove my rotor to change the oil seal behind it, knew about the bolt but the closest place that had one is over an hour away so decided to try a 3 jaw puller instead.

All I can say is that my rotor must have been pressed on by the hand of god! I destroyed two 3 jaw pullers and bent the bolt that holds the rotor on and it never budged. Tried tapping, tried heat, tried oil, tried a gypsy dance, especially tried swearing, just wouldn't move.
One of the pullers striped the thread on the large center bolt, the other twisted that large center bolt clean off. The bolt that holds the rotor on was used so the center of the puller would be pushing against the crank and it bent under the force of the puller.

I've sent SWMBO after the correct "bolt" today, as well as a replacement for the one I bent, so I'll post back how it goes with that tonight!

Oh, and I should mention - don't waste your money on 3 jaw pullers from harbor freight -

[XJOK2PLAY]

psycoreefer,

I just did this not long ago on mine to replace the crank seal.

I couldn't believe how easy and fast it popped off when we put the right bolt to it!

We borrowed ours from one of the local motorcycle shops.

Couldn't find one anywhere else, though. That's a wierd size. (16mm, I believe.)

It's the only way to fly, though.

[DGXSER]

Reminds me of replacing a ball joint

You know, I went and borrowed the ball joint press from a local auto parts store. They "rent" the tool to you, basically you buy it, use it and bring it back and they refund your money, but keep sending out the used tool.

Anyway, I was pulling the lower ball joint on my F150. I put the press on there, and turned and turned and turned and then got out my SS pipe cheater bar and could NOT get that ball joint out for anything, Even hit it with an impact gun at full tilt, just would not budge the thing.

Next morning I went out and looked it again, realized I was pushing against the lip of the ball joint. Got the next bigger sleeve in the press and "Bob's your uncle" out it popped. Gotta wonder if the puller bolt is not pushing on a shoulder like that also.

[psycoreefer]

I assume you've seen how that rotor goes together, there is a bolt that goes through the rotor and thread into the end of the crank and holds the rotor on (although I don't see how it could ever possibly slip off), to remove the rotor you take that bolt out and then thread the "tool" into the rotor which presses on the end of the crank.

What I did was remove the bolt, take the washers off it, and then re-install it until it was nearly touching the rotor, then put the jaws behind the rotor and the center of the puller pushing on the head of that bolt. I can't see how it could have been pressing on anything other then the crank.

[randy]

When I removed mine I got the correct tool from Motion-Pro. Still it took heat, oiling the threads, more heat, banging, cursing and all. I walked a way for a bit and when I came back I just looked at it and it fell off. Maybe the heating / cooling did the trick. Even though I used the proper tool, I found the first thread in the crank was a little crushed by the tip of the tool, so I had to run a tap in to clean it up.

It's just one of those things that's either real easy or near impossible.

[DGXSER]

I assume you've seen how that rotor goes together

No, I have not. I was just throwing out a concept to see if it helped.

[Rasputin]

I had trouble finding That 16mm bolt up here. I went to the John Deer dealership and they had a wide selection of lengths of that very bolt. Seems that some of their equipment is metric threaded. Cost me about 6 bucks but made the job easy.

[psycoreefer]

Well THE bolt was waiting for me when I got home, screwed it in and....


I still had to use my 4' extension on my 1/2" drive ratchet to get enough force to pop it off. Also this time the engine was hot, not sure if that made a difference or just having the right tool.

Anyways this is what it looked like

Seems a PO may have had trouble with it and gooped some permatex on there...

The new seal from napa - Part number NOS-12711, cost 8 bucks, double lipped!








I did screw up the threads on the end of the removal bolt, but it didn't hurt the threads in the crank. I pulled out the manual during re-assembly and found that the bolt that holds the rotor is only supposed to be tightened to 47ft-lb... seems like it took twice that to break it loose.

[79XS11F]

On both my rebuilt engines I used what was sold as a heavy duty 2 leg pulled that I got at Princess Auto. The legs are very large so I had to use care to not damage the engine cases when setting it up. I threaded the rotor bolt in to the bottom then backed it off 1/8 of an inch for the center of the puller to push on. I loaded up the puller and then heated up the rotors center area as evenly as I could. When it got to the right temperature, it poped off without jumping off the crank because the bolt was there to stop its movement.
Rob

[Steptoe]

it,s been ages

here it is in action, heaps easier to use the steel hammer straight up
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=klbObXhE3cI

[Courtney]

I have the removal tool from my Honda Hawk and it fit my XS. I'm glad I keep all my tools. But..... I now have kids and a wife to lose them for me.

Hi Pat! Haven't talked to you for forever! Hope all is well? Aren't kids and wives a hoot?