How does your Vetter lower clear the Choke Lever?

[CatatonicBug]

I now have lowers on my Windjammer, but they were obviously not originally designed for an XS1100. Both pieces had already been trimmed to "work" on an xs11, but I can tell they were not made this way at the factory (serial number sticker on the left lower was cut in half). The right side is ok, but needed to be trimmed a little more to clear the valve cover. The left side, however, is a bit different. It had an oval hole cut out of the rear portion, I assume for some other model's Choke lever. It's nowhere near where the XS's lever is. Also, the bottom is cut short, so it does not scoop around as close to the bike as the right side does, probably to clear some other model's left engine cover. I have adjusted the lowers I have, so they will work fine, but the purist in me is still itchy to find the "right" pieces.

What I am trying to find is someone with a photo (or several) of an original, un-altered left lower, designed for the XS11. I even tried to look for pictures of Bob Jones' version, but all the pics I found only showed the right side. I just want to know what they are SUPPOSED to look like.

I did find one picture of Rasputin's bike in the Members Photos area, but it does not show any clearance for the choke lever. Is this how they all are?

[webbcraft2150]

The Vetter lowers clear my choke just fine, but then again I have the OEM Yamaha "Tour Pack". When I switched over the a Windjammer, everything still bolted up just fine. OEM lowers show up on E-bay pretty often or somone here may have a set to sell/trade/give away. The lowers are easily trimmed with a Dremel or small grinder. Be sure to mount the lowers with "well nuts" or you could have some cracking. You can find em at Lowes/Home Depot pretty cheap. I used stainless steel allen head bolts and washers to mount mine.

[CatatonicBug]

The Vetter lowers clear my choke just fine, but then again I have the OEM Yamaha "Tour Pack". When I switched over the a Windjammer, everything still bolted up just fine. OEM lowers show up on E-bay pretty often or somone here may have a set to sell/trade/give away. The lowers are easily trimmed with a Dremel or small grinder. Be sure to mount the lowers with "well nuts" or you could have some cracking. You can find em at Lowes/Home Depot pretty cheap. I used stainless steel allen head bolts and washers to mount mine.

I know they are easilly trimmed, but the purist in me HATES to trim/adjust things like this if it can be avoided. If yours clears, HOW does it clear? The rear portion completely covers the carbs and hugs them nicely. The ones I have seen, like the picture above (including Bob Jones' "Ol' Blackie", have a cut-out to clear the petcocks, but I don't even know if that is how they were originally designed.

The lowers are bike-specific, just like the mounting brackets. I just want to see how Vetter designed them in the first place to work with the XS11 and how it clears the choke lever. Do you have a picture of yours? Even the "Yamaha Tour Pack" version, as long as it's not the Pacifico setup - Those had no rear portion on the lowers.

Oh, and mine came with the well nuts, and SS socket screws, so I didn't have to go hunting for them. Vetter even sells them as a set for $27.50.

[motoman]

The "tails" on the lowers were NOT on the lowers for the Venturer or the 80 model. I have an extra set with the "tails" and I'm bettin' that Vetter fairing and lowers came of an 80-81 Suzuki GS850. Specially if you had to trim a bit off inside edge to clear cylinder fins. You can trim the 'tails" by cutting a radious at the top and follow down along same lines of outer portion.
'

[Rasputin]

Mine have not been cut and there is clearance...not much.. but it does work without any hassle. I would take a closer pic for you but right now the whole front end is apart. I am doing steering head bearings, fork seals, brake caliper and M/C rebuilds so the vetter is off to the side for a while.

[CatatonicBug]

I'm not understanding how there can be clearance for the choke lever without a slot cut in the "tail". The tail hugs the carbs so close that I can barely get my fingers between the carb and the tail. The bungee cord even holds it there, pressed against the airbox. How can you pull the choke lever all the way out when the tail is holding it in?

Also, is the cut-out for the petcock done at the factory, or was that done after-the-fact?

[skids]

I cut one and you really don't notice that there was an alteration. The plastic is easy to cut and smooth.

[CatatonicBug]

I cut one and you really don't notice that there was an alteration. The plastic is easy to cut and smooth.

I know. I had to cut the ones I got to make them work. I used a coping saw and some sandpaper, and it turned out fine. However, I am a purist, and what I want to know is how they were DESIGNED to look on the XS1100. Vetter made them with specific designs, custom-made for each model of bike, and I just want to know what the original design was for these bikes.

Doesn't anyone have an original, unaltered set they can take pictures of??

[Rasputin]

I can take a pic of the lowers I have and ya can compare em to yours. I may have time tomorrow or the next day to quickly mount it and take pics, but no promises

[CatatonicBug]

I can take a pic of the lowers I have and ya can compare em to yours. I may have time tomorrow or the next day to quickly mount it and take pics, but no promises

Sounds good. One question though. Since yours is the one in the picture I posted, is the cut-out for the petcock done at the factory, or was that done by an owner (you or a PO)? I have a right-hand lower, and it does not have the cut-out, but fits perfectly around everywhere else.

[Rasputin]

I just had to make a trip out to the garage and have a look see, but that cutout looks to be factory made. I know I did not do it and the edge looks the same as all other edges. If a PO did it then they did a marvelous job.

[Dragon Tamer]

Mine are the original Vetters to fit the XS. There is no cutout for the choke lever. It is however easy to use, your finger fits easily behind the lever to pull it out. At full choke the lever is touching the lower and a simple push on the lower pushes the lever back in. I will get pics for you later this morning and get them posted.

[Dragon Tamer]

As promised here are the pics.

Here is the lever in the running position, easily accessed- -

[IMG][/IMG]

And here is the lever in the full choked position, from here you can just push on the lower to reset it to the run position or you can easily get your finger to the outside of it by pushing against the lower as it will easily move out against the snugger strap. Either way, no problem- -

[IMG][/IMG]

Incidentaly, the petcock cutouts are factory.

[CatatonicBug]

Thanks for the pictures. Your lowers don't hug the carbs very close. Mine seem to sit a lot closer. Do they touch the airbox at the rear point of the lowers?

[Dragon Tamer]

Yes, they touch the air box. If you let the snubber get old and weak they even noise at you going down the road a little. I just put a new snubber strap on there every spring when I get her out of hibernation.