zzr swingarm swap?

[cafejunky78]

Surfing the web I have seen a few people that put a zzr swingarm under there xs11. I was wondering if any one one this site has done it and if so what mods were needed to do it, or is it a bolt in swap? I like the idea of this arm just because there are tons on ebay, If there is an easeir swap that wold give me that fatter tire, please let me know.

[xschop]

zzr

I have a complete ZX11 rear-end and custom spacers left over that I will part with. Just PM me

[fredintoon]

Surfing the web I have seen a few people that put a zzr swingarm under there xs11. I was wondering if any one one this site has done it and if so what mods were needed to do it, or is it a bolt in swap? I like the idea of this arm just because there are tons on ebay, If there is an easeir swap that wold give me that fatter tire, please let me know.

Hi Cafe,
A swingarm upgrade could improve a bike's handling by being stiffer or giving a longer wheelbase
but I dunno that you can fit a fatter rear tire no matter which swingarm you swap in.
A ZZR or any other swingarm has to line up with where the driveshaft exits the tranny
and that exit is at a certain unchangable offset from the bike centreline.
The only way I can see to fit a significantly fatter rear tire is to swap in a swingarm that lets
you offset the rear wheel away from the driveshaft and thus moving it off centre
and doing that can't be a good thing.

[cafejunky78]

What about a chain drive swap?

Hello Fred, I am planing on doing a chain drive swap. That should give me the clearance for a fatter tire. I want the chain drive for a couple of reasons the biggest reason is the wider tire, the second is that I hear that the shafty sucks up almost 10 ponys.

[fredintoon]

Hello Fred, I am planing on doing a chain drive swap. That should give me the clearance for a fatter tire. I want the chain drive for a couple of reasons the biggest reason is the wider tire, the second is that I hear that the shafty sucks up almost 10 ponys.

Hi cafe,
shows I dunno what a ZZR is don't it?
If it's just for looks, a fat rear on an XS11 is fine. Thing is, modern bike frames are designed to use a fat rear tire while 30 year old ones weren't so don't hope for improved handling.
Yes, a chain drive will put more power onto the road. Chain drives also do NOT thrive on neglect like a shaftie but need to be nurtured like a sick child while they throw oil streaks onto your rear wheel and your left pant leg.
I am also not sanguine about the maximum transmission sprocket size being only 13T. Conventional wisdom puts the optimum sprocket size at 17T and the absolute minimum at 15T.
Chain drive is a thing I lived with for all my biking life until I got the XS11 which has power to spare anyway, at least it has for the needs of a timid and elderly sidecar operator.

[cafejunky78]

I guess that just goes to show

I guess that just goes to show that there is always at least two sides to ever idea. I am not going to lie looks are a big factor but I have ready threads on here were they have been tickled with how there bike preformed, no torque steer and what not.

[xschop]

Goin' chain

If you put solid engine mounts in, the flex of the bike in hard cornering is no longer felt. I had just the rears done to mine and it was a big improvement even after installing the chain drive. I can also say that out of the 3k miles I put on the last O-ring 530 chain I installed, I had to adjust it only once. I used a compound called JP chainguard and that kept it even more quiet.

If I had to do it over again, I would use 60-70A polyurethane engine mounts on the front mounts (4ea) and solid alloy on the rears......Just an idea from someone who's been there and done that.

[xschop]

teeth

I ended up putting on a 14T front and 42T rear for a perfect 3:1 ratio that I feel is even better than the 2.9:1 ratio of the XS750/850 FD mod that I pioneered and Maximan (Cody) published. I ground off 2mm from the engine case facing and discovered that a 15T could be installed but not necessary. 14/42 is where this bike should have been from the factory, but Yamaha wanted the 1/4 mile bragging rights.
And YES, all torque steer is gone after installing a chain, especially the left hand low cornering shaft kick under hard acceleration that feels like you are about to be eating asphault if you throttle it too hard.

[cafejunky78]

What about a mono shock?

hello, when I asked you(xschop) about the zx11 rear end you had, you said all I would need is Kz1000 shocks. What would be the advantage of running the kz1000 shocks over the oem zx11 mono shock. Relocating the battery is one thing, but I am going to tuck that in the rear hump on my seat either way I go. I am not trying to be hard headed or anything like that I am truly asking because there is a lot of knowledge on this site.

[xschop]

zx11 mono?

The ZXR1100 is the rearend I have and have made adapters for. Member Scappod has this rear end and a chaindrive. Sorry for the confusion. The Zx11 is a monoshock and can be done. I believe PGGG has put one on over on the U.K. site and his bike is chain driven as well. The ZXR dual shocks would be choice if you can get them for less than 300-400 Bucks, But I discovered the Kz1000 shock work just as well at less than 100 bucks brand new....Hope this clears the air....

[cafejunky78]

Shocks?

I am not sure if I read that part in your Bolt-on Chaindrive And Fat Tire thread correctly, but is it true the kz1000 shocks in the factory locations on the frame will make it sit 1.5 to 2 inches lower. If so would the hayabusa front end but it back to level?

[xschop]

Busa

That sounds about right. But the KZ1000 shocks should be 14.25" I2I and that drops the rear from stock about 1 to 1.5" which would be a perfect compliment to the Busa front end. The center of gravity fools you into thinking the bike is lighter.

[cafejunky78]

what about length?

Did I read correctly that zxr11 are is about 3.5 inches longer then the stock unit if so how does that effect handling?