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D@#$ Airbox

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  • #16
    My 2 cents

    Water pump on transverse mounted motors. Get readY to cut a hole in the wheel well. DAMHIK
    Lee aka trainzz

    I am my inner child!!

    I have no idea how you managed to make that connection within your brain, but I applaud whatever cellular mutation just took place.

    1980 XS11 Special-"Thunder Pig"
    1980 XS11 Special-"Crazy Trainz" (project bike)
    1979 Xs1100 Standard ( parts,parts,parts)

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    • #17
      Originally posted by HobbyMan View Post
      To remove and replace the carbs, the easiest way that I have found is as follows.
      Removal. After disconnecting the fuel lines and such: Unbolt the 3 securing bolts to the airbox. Loosen all of the clamps on the car (all 8) slide the bands to the opposite ends of the joint. Slide the carbs back to separate from the intake manifold boots. Make sure the wire clutch cable clip is out of the way. While straddling the bike, rotate the carbs forward. stop when the intake boots are between the butterflys and the carb tops. Then the carbs should slide easily out by rotating them back and forth and a little elbow grease. Then the airbox slides right out.

      Installation: Put the airbox in place. Slide the carbs in the way they came out. Put the carbs in the airbox rubber and then push the whole assembly forward so the carbs slide into the intake boots. I usually tighten the clamps and then put the airbox bolts in.

      Once you do this a few times, it should only take you about 2 min to pull the carbs out or pull them in if the bike is already broken down (tank off etc...) Don't dump the air box just because it makes it seems like it is a pita to put the carbs in.
      I also take out the battery, and loosen the 4 wingnut bolts just so the top airbox bracket will slip over the middle frame bracket. This will gain you a lot of room to move.
      XS1100SF
      XS1100F

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      • #18
        carb removal

        takes less than fifteen min. and that's on a factorydresser having to remove lowers on fairing. One trick is doing it several times. The other is to let front portion of lower air box drop down and there's plenty of room to slide carb bank out to left side of bike. Prior to back in spray silicone inside carb. boots and air box boots as well. Rocking carb bank up and down coming off and on and same with air box will allow then to pop right back on. Going back together including fairing lowers consumes bout twenty minutes. If you have the stock air box, use it as the upper portion inside has some unique features and designs that are tied in with proper vacuum slide operation of the CV carbs which also will save you alot of tuning frustration!
        81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.

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        • #19
          Exactly.

          Once you take the time to learn I can't see installing 4 seperate pod filters being any faster.

          I pop the carbs in and out quite regularily. Takes about 5 minutes, not counting the actual reason you took them out in the first place (adjustments/repairs).
          Nice day, if it doesn't rain...

          '05 ST1300
          '83 502/502 Monte Carlo for sale/trade

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          • #20
            Originally posted by Crazcnuk View Post
            Exactly.

            Once you take the time to learn I can't see installing 4 seperate pod filters being any faster.

            I pop the carbs in and out quite regularily. Takes about 5 minutes, not counting the actual reason you took them out in the first place (adjustments/repairs).
            I don't remove the pods. They stay on the carbs.

            I rejetted this morning, 7 minutes from first turn of the screwdriver to engine start.
            Ich habe dich nicht gefragt.

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