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  • Mutt carbs

    I'm looking into a set of carbs w/a broken float post on 2 different carbs. #2 is the only carb not able to be swapped by any of the remaining carbs. My question is can you install 2 #2 carbs on one bank and blind plug the vaccum port on the body of the one not in the #2 position?
    Josh Yoquelet -- I'm having dreams of my XS
    '79 XS11SF "stock"- 4/1 Kerker, T.C.'s fuse block
    '79 XS11SF "bobber"- Rotted in a pine tree for 10 years
    '81 Air forks w/23,000 miles
    New steering head races and bearings
    '78/'79 standard wire harness
    Drag bars, w/Mikes controls
    T.C.'s fuse block
    PNM Coils
    7mm Dyna Wires
    NGK Resistor Caps
    Custom 1" clutch and 9/16" MC

    http://xs11bobber.tripod.com

  • #2
    As far as I know, you cannot. You have the port where the fuel tee goes into the left side of the carb on both, and therefor cannot hook them both up together.

    These carbs are annoying! All the parts seem the same, but there are minute changes that make them different. There are tons of really easy ways to fix the posts...Seal-all, someone used solder to build them back up, get creative! But make sure the gas won't eat it up!

    -Rick
    1979 XS1100 Standard

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by xs11bobber View Post
      I'm looking into a set of carbs w/a broken float post on 2 different carbs. #2 is the only carb not able to be swapped by any of the remaining carbs. My question is can you install 2 #2 carbs on one bank and blind plug the vaccum port on the body of the one not in the #2 position?
      Hi Josh,
      yeah, all the carbs are made from the same basic casting and machined a bit different to suit where they go.
      A #2 carb could be given minor surgery and have it's vacuum port blocked to work at #4 position.
      To make a #2 carb fit at #1 or #3 positions you'd have to seal off the fuel tee port and machine one on the other side.
      A guy with the skills and machine tools to do that would find it easier to make and install new float posts on his broken carbs.
      That, or PM Andreas.
      Fred Hill, S'toon
      XS11SG with Spirit of America sidecar
      "The Flying Pumpkin"

      Comment


      • #4
        Here's one way to fix a broken post. I used a brass picture frame hanger and a very small cotter pin. I got the idea from another member who did a very similar repair.

        I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.

        '79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines

        Comment


        • #5
          Well, the last notice I got from andreas he wanted $170 for a set, and who knows the condition. I was thinking if I could take 2 and 3 that's left of my parts carbs and buy 1 of the few sets on eBay with a couple broken float posts I could just swap them out. If I could get a good #2 to work in a #4 position, then it sounds like this may be possible. But then #4 on my parts carbs has a broken float post and seems it may be repairable if I use the right bonding agent. Does gas eat solder? Maybe if I could JBWeld it on the broken point then solder around it? What other methods have been used?
          Josh Yoquelet -- I'm having dreams of my XS
          '79 XS11SF "stock"- 4/1 Kerker, T.C.'s fuse block
          '79 XS11SF "bobber"- Rotted in a pine tree for 10 years
          '81 Air forks w/23,000 miles
          New steering head races and bearings
          '78/'79 standard wire harness
          Drag bars, w/Mikes controls
          T.C.'s fuse block
          PNM Coils
          7mm Dyna Wires
          NGK Resistor Caps
          Custom 1" clutch and 9/16" MC

          http://xs11bobber.tripod.com

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by xs11bobber View Post
            Maybe if I could JBWeld it on the broken point then solder around it?
            You're gonna find that solder doesn't stick too well to aluminum, unless you know some trick that I don't.
            2H7 (79) owned since '89
            3H3 owned since '06

            "If it ain't broke, modify it"

            Comment


            • #7
              Sorry Phil... don't know too many tricks in the motorcycle field, but thanks for the heads up
              Josh Yoquelet -- I'm having dreams of my XS
              '79 XS11SF "stock"- 4/1 Kerker, T.C.'s fuse block
              '79 XS11SF "bobber"- Rotted in a pine tree for 10 years
              '81 Air forks w/23,000 miles
              New steering head races and bearings
              '78/'79 standard wire harness
              Drag bars, w/Mikes controls
              T.C.'s fuse block
              PNM Coils
              7mm Dyna Wires
              NGK Resistor Caps
              Custom 1" clutch and 9/16" MC

              http://xs11bobber.tripod.com

              Comment


              • #8
                I have used sealall in something emersed in gas and it held up really nice. It smells like crap but it sets fast and holds well! Try that!
                1979 XS1100 Standard

                Comment


                • #9
                  well boys... I'm goin with andreas. I might experiment with some techniques on post repair on the spare bodies. I'm going to need to do some research and I will post anything, if anything, useful comes of it. I do like dbeardslee's approach
                  Josh Yoquelet -- I'm having dreams of my XS
                  '79 XS11SF "stock"- 4/1 Kerker, T.C.'s fuse block
                  '79 XS11SF "bobber"- Rotted in a pine tree for 10 years
                  '81 Air forks w/23,000 miles
                  New steering head races and bearings
                  '78/'79 standard wire harness
                  Drag bars, w/Mikes controls
                  T.C.'s fuse block
                  PNM Coils
                  7mm Dyna Wires
                  NGK Resistor Caps
                  Custom 1" clutch and 9/16" MC

                  http://xs11bobber.tripod.com

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Drill a hole into both ends, use a steel roll pin or equal with slow JB Weld. Make sure to align properly. I also clamp in a vice overnight. This has worked on a number of carbs with some in service for over 8 years and still perfect.
                    Good luck hope this helped.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I do like dbeardslee's approach
                      Josh - I can't take credit for it - I got the idea from another member. Seemed like the best/easiest fix. The more narrow the blade used to cut the slot the better, and in retrospect, it probably would be best to offset the slot a little bit away from the float. That way when you make the bend in the brass you can bring it into full contact with the top of the cut-off post which will help stabilize it. A roll pin would probably be a better choice for the pin. It doesn't have to be too tight as the bowl will hold it in place. My $.02
                      I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.

                      '79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines

                      Comment

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