Oil control rails and rings

[Rickrod3]

I did a search for oil control rails as well a read all the threads on piston rings.
Could not find the answers I'm looking for.
I'm working on a 1100F which had a stuck engine so far the cylinders, pistons and compression rings are within spec. I'm not totally sure how to check out the oil control rails.
I notice they consist of 2 thin rings which sandwich another part.
I see how you would be able to check the end gap on the 2 thin rings but is there something that needs to be done with the center piece?

I also noticed the holes below the oil control rings are partially blocked Is I was thinking of using a torch tip cleaner to clean them up.
Are there any things I should be careful to avoid?

All my ring end gaps are with in spec. I was thinking of trying to match up the rings on different pistons and cylinders so I get the end gaps closer to .2MM.
Is that a good Idea?
BTW I honed the cylinders.
Lastly reading a ring installation pdf file from wisco they recommend the second compression ring to have a larger end gap than the 1st.
Is that good general practice or just for the wisco rings.
I'm using stock rings with the standard bore since luckily they are still within spec.
Thanks in advance
Rick

[trbig]

I'm not totally sure how to check out the oil control rails.

The way I check the rings is to set them in the cylinders , then use a piston upside down in the cylinder and push the ring down to the stroke area. As you stated, on the oil rings, there are two "Rings" sandwiching another wavy looking ring. You check these top and bottom oil rings the same as the other compression rings, but their tollerances aren't as strict as the compression rings. On my bike, it's .2-.9mm normal with a limit of 1.5mm. The compression rings show a .2-.4mm with a 1mm limit. There is no gap check for the wavy looking ring. A warning... on assembly of the oil rings, make sure the wavy ring ends butt up together.. not overlap each other. Otherwise excessive oil consumption will result.

I also noticed the holes below the oil control rings are partially blocked

These are just going to be carbon build up. You can use a dental pick or small jewelers screwdriver... maybe even a small drill bit. Not sure the torch thing will work since it's been cooked there already... but I don't see what it would hurt. There's several around the skirt, but make sure the two on each side underneath that oil the piston pin are clear also.

Lastly reading a ring installation pdf file from wisco they recommend the second compression ring to have a larger end gap than the 1st.

My Yamaha book doesn't say anything about that, so maybe it's just them? As long as they are still in spec, I don't see where there'll be a problem.

The most important thing is making sure the end gaps are in the proper positions around the piston as you assemble it back. Also... be careful. Used rings are very brittle, so warping them around to get on and off the piston lands can snap them. Also.. make sure you clean the carbon out of those ring lands before assembly.

Good luck..

Tod

[oseaghdha]

Expander

Get one of these. It's a piston ring putter onner.

[Ivan]

The oil return slots being plugged up is fairly normal on most any engine. BTW there is a technical term for that carbon build up, its called "coke". I have no idea why, but that is what it is called. There really isn't enough oil flow through those slots to keep them clean, if the oil rings are doing their job.

Also if you use a piston ring expander, be darn careful, as it is very easy to break the rings with them. I have a method of putting rings on pistons that makes the ring expand as little as possible. Hard to explain, but I'll try.

The gap in the ring needs to sit down near the groove, and the rest of the ring over the crown of the piston. The ring will be at an angle to the piston at this point. Having some oil on your thumbs and the piston and ring will help here, but isn't totally needed. Holding the piston firmly in your hands or in a soft jaw vice, simultaneously push with your thumbs on either side of the ring where it is resting on the crown of the piston. Next, slide your thumbs along the edge of the crown, pressing the ring over the edge, keeping your thumbs moving at the same rate toward the point opposite the ring gap. If done correctly, this will use the absolute minimum flex needed to install a ring. The lower compression ring goes on first. Run it down to the first groove, and then repeat the process to get it to the second.

Working on a 12V149 Detroit diesel is where I learned the process. They have large pistons, and using a ring spreader just wasn't enough. If you did try to expand the ring, it would break every time. It seems like a ring set for those was close to 150$ for each piston, so the boss got really unhappy when you started busting them. When I learned the above method, I have yet to break a ring. Even on the huge pistons.

Tod, the apparatus he is talking about isn't the torch, its a bunch of small wires of different sizes that have serrations on them, like really small rat tail files. They are used to clean the hole of an acetylene torch when they get gunked up.

[trbig]

Yeah.. I get it now. Sorry. I know what those are and have used them. I think those would work well.

Ivan's description is how I put the rings on as well.

Tod

[Rickrod3]

Thanks TR & Ivan.
I understand your ring installation technique.
I will definitely be reinstalling them using it.

Rick

[DenyP]

Sorry, Wish I could help! Todd and Ivan seem to have it in hand!

Deny