Wheel alignment

[79XS11F]

Does anyone have a method for confirming wheel alignment? On my chain driven bike lining up the rear sprocket lined up with the counter drive sprocket may not by default mean that the wheels are properly aligned. I figure I should confirm that the wheels are properly aligned and then adjust the rear sprocket as necessary.
Rob

[jjwaller]

Does anyone have a method for confirming wheel alignment? On my chain driven bike lining up the rear sprocket lined up with the counter drive sprocket may not by default mean that the wheels are properly aligned. I figure I should confirm that the wheels are properly aligned and then adjust the rear sprocket as necessary.
Rob

You blew my mind there for a second.
Actually had to go look at the 11.
Anyway, there is no adjustment, like on a chain drive bike, on the shaft drive XS11.
If nothing is bent or the swingarm bushings aren't bad, it has to be inline.
Can be checked. I use a straight edge held to the rear tire that extends to the
front wheel and measure to both ends of front wheel. repeat on both sides.
Usually needs 2 people to do this.
HTH

[79XS11F]

You blew my mind there for a second.
Actually had to go look at the 11.
Anyway, there is no adjustment, like on a chain drive bike, on the shaft drive XS11.
If nothing is bent or the swingarm bushings aren't bad, it has to be inline.
Can be checked. I use a straight edge held to the rear tire that extends to the
front wheel and measure to both ends of front wheel. repeat on both sides.
Usually needs 2 people to do this.
HTH

This is for on my chain drive converted XS11

[jjwaller]

This is for on my chain drive converted XS11

Well I guess that would make a difference! SABT
Another method is to use strings as straight edges.
Fasten to back of rear tire or use one long enough to wrap around
and reach past the front wheel, and then pull them taught,
while barely touching the front of the rear wheel, and then measure
the distance to the front and rear of the front wheel.
Can be done by one person if the front string supports are elevated
and you use weights to hold strings down.
Hope this makes sense.
HTH.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Rob,

DO you have a laser level? Perhaps, on centerstand, front wheel up on 2x4, then laser level against right side of rim, and mark where it hits the 2x4, then put on left side of rim, mark again on left side of 2x4, and see if the marks are equadistant from centerline of front tire? IF not, then adjust accordingly!
T.C.

[TopCatGr58]

After typing the above, I realized that the rear wheel could still be skewed at an angle left or right. ie. If the wheel is a few mm's off centerline to the right, then adjusting the angle of the rear wheel/axle so that the right side of the axle was slightly more forward than the left, would possibly put the laser shining equally on both sides of center line of front tire, but rear would still be askew!

Perhaps ensure that the front tire is truly straight, use the laser level on it against the wall in front, and then use the laser level on the rear using the same wall markings??
T.C.

[jjwaller]

Roger that TC:
I have been trying to find a thread on other forums (SOHC 4, DOHC 4, V65, and others)about the more high tech method of the Laser. I know I found an excellent detailed thread about using lasers at one time, but I can't find it now.
I'll keep looking.
Always love the High Tech approach

[79XS11F]

Hey TC. I just did a "dry run" working from the front wheel with the new tire on. I put a straight piece of angle iron against and across both sides of the front tire and made marks on the bench. I carried those marks to the back of the bike and could see right away that the front wheel was not sitting parallel with the frame. I have no way to confirm the front wheels true straight position so that did not work. I think the best I will be able to do is go to my stock bike and measure from the rear rims edge to a fixed point on the frames right hand side and duplicate that measurement to the hop up bike.

After typing the above, I realized that the rear wheel could still be skewed at an angle left or right. ie. If the wheel is a few mm's off centerline to the right, then adjusting the angle of the rear wheel/axle so that the right side of the axle was slightly more forward than the left, would possibly put the laser shining equally on both sides of center line of front tire, but rear would still be askew!

Perhaps ensure that the front tire is truly straight, use the laser level on it against the wall in front, and then use the laser level on the rear using the same wall markings??
T.C.

[trbig]

Anyway, there is no adjustment, like on a chain drive bike, on the shaft drive XS11. If nothing is bent or the swingarm bushings aren't bad, it has to be inline.

I know this won't help Rob, but this statement isn't correct about the stock 11. You've got maybe a 1/4 to 3/8" gap on each side of the swingarm between it and the inside of the frame. You can loosen the jam nuts, and with an allen wrench, suck it back and forth. I always just try to get it centered and just assume that's where it's supposed to be? I think this would get some clearance on those tires that just barely rub the shaft housing... but no idea how that would affect handling.. if any.


Tod

[79XS11F]

Yes Tod, There is the adjustment of the swing arms position to move the wheel left or right but when the swing arm is "properly" centered the position of the rear drive unit will pretty much control the wheels location. Anyway, with this chain drive rear end there are axle spacers but it appears that when the sprockets are properly lined up the wheels are not. The sprocket hub slides onto the wheels splines with no shims included that can be used to alter the hubs position.
I think I will have to perhaps clamp a piece of angle iron to the frame just below the plastic side cover and measure over to the rims closest edge and duplicate this measurement onto the hop up bike. I am hoping the frames are manufactured to a close enough tolerance for this to be useful or at least a good starting point. At this point I don't even know if the rubber seal that normally sits at the base of the wheels splines is to be left in place or removed. Having no instructions with this used kit has not been helpful.

I know this won't help Rob, but this statement isn't correct about the stock 11. You've got maybe a 1/4 to 3/8" gap on each side of the swingarm between it and the inside of the frame. You can loosen the jam nuts, and with an allen wrench, suck it back and forth. I always just try to get it centered and just assume that's where it's supposed to be? I think this would get some clearance on those tires that just barely rub the shaft housing... but no idea how that would affect handling.. if any.


Tod

[crazy steve]

On the chain and belt drive bikes I've owned, I've always put a straightedge on the rear sprocket towards the front one and adjusted the wheel until they lined up. The sprockets should be parallel to each other. If the straightedge hits the front sprocket at an angle, you need to look at the rear wheel spacers, although if it's off by less than 1/16" that doesn't seem to hurt. On a chain drive, do this without the chain installed; do the alignment, make some reference marks, then reinstall the chain, doing the final adjustment by moving the wheel +/- the same amount on both sides. This has always worked for me. Depending on the bike, you'll have to remove various bits to get a clear path for the straightedge.

A PITA the first time, but if you keep track of your 'reference' marks, easy after that.

'78E original owner

[Pat Kelly]

Here's the jig I used on my (chain) bike to align the tires



I cut a 2 X 6 board and layed it against the wheels. Notch the wood 1/2 the width of the tires