Air Filter?

[Tigerman_87]

Hello everybody! I am new to this site, and forums. First, a little about me!
My name is TJ, and I live in Iowa. I am 22 years old, and I bought my first motorcycle in August of 08. My first bike was/is an XS1100F and I love it! I get lots of compliments from older bikers when I am filling up, or when I have it parked somewhere. I am also in to cars alot. I have a 1972 Monte Carlo project car.

On to my question. This might be a little noobish...but where should I buy an air filter? Nobody around here sells them for my bike, except the local Yamaha store...but they are like 58$ is that normal?

I am actually not sure if I need to change it, but I bought the bike 1 year ago, and haven't changed it. I also haven't changed the oil ( I am doing this tomorrow).
The bike has never been rebuilt, or anything like that. But it runs great for being 30 years old (40k miles...38.5 when I bought it ) The only problem I see with the bike, is that if I do not ride it, or start it for like 2 weeks, when I first start it up, it puffs some smoke/exhaust from front of the bike, and from the tail pipe. Not huge plumes or anything, and it all stops after about 30 seconds of warming up. If I ride it everyday, which I usually do, I have no problems. However, the first time I took it out this year it was low on oil, so I added some. I had to add 2 quarts to get it to be level! It drips a tiny bit of oil...but barely noticeable. Like 2 drops for 1 week of sitting.

Anyways, the oil level looked a little low so I added about 1/2 a quart, and it turns out it was already overfull, and I put even more in >.<. I didn't know this til today, but the problem I had was that the last ride I went on, it started spitting mad amounts of smoke out of the tailpipes ( it did stop) and it frightened me, and it was seeping oil out of everywhere. I took it to my cousin who used to build drag bikes, and he told me I just overfilled the oil. He said the smoke was most likely from too much oil being in the engine, and it got into the airbox (which is how it was seeping out of there). So I am going to change the oil and filter, put in the CORRECT amount of oil, and clean out the airbox/change the air filter.
I had O'Reilly's order my oil filter, it will be in tomorrow, and I am getting 4 quarts of Mobile 1. The only problem is I can't find an air filter >.<

Sorry for the long post, but I felt the need to give out some info for my first post

[bikerphil]

This is a good site to get parts for our bikes, relatively cheap...

https://www.partsnmore.com/index-yamaha.htm

Always check your oil level with the bike on the centerstand. Synthetic oils will somtimes make the clutch slip. Welcome to XS11.com!

[CatatonicBug]

Welcome to the forum! Looks like you've got some reading to do. Be sure to read throug EVERY tech tip in the "XS11 Info" section at the top of this page. You may not need it right now, but you will at some point down the road.

You didn't say how you determined that you had overfilled your oil, so I'll mention one thing about that. Always fill it on the CENTER stand (or held straight up), NOT on the side stand. The little viewing window is at the bottom of the engine case, just above the brake pedal. The top of the oil should be level with the center of the window. Also, Synthetic oil (like Mobil 1) has been reported to cause the clutch to slip. Its usually safer (and cheaper) to stick with regular 20W50 dino oil. Lots of threads on that topic here, so if you're interested, you could read for days!

Air filters (and oil filters) can be obtained at many online vendors, including e-bay. There are 2 types, and you get to choose which one you like better. The foam type needs to be oiled (by hand, rubbing the oil into the foam) and is cheaper, and the other type gets washed and sprayed with filter prep stuff in a spray can.

PartsNmore.com sells them for $18.00



And Bikebandit.com sells them for $48.10
You'll notice that prices vary a lot between vendors, so it helps to shop around.

You've found the right place for all possible information you will ever need about these bikes, and there are a ton of great people here to help you learn it. Ask any question you might have, and you will be sure to get an answer - sometimes it's even a helpful one!

[MrOzz]

Welcome to the forums. Tons of great people here to answer your questions.


You can go with the stock air filter or you can also buy a K & N filter that fits the stock location. The K & N Part # is YA1400. I found it for $40.00. I think I got it from Denniskirk.com.


Ozz

[Elevener]

I bought the Uni filter from here for $18.95 http://www.repairmanual.com/motorcyc...4/0/2983/10200

The only problem I had was the clips on the back wingbolts wanted to tear the foam so I took them off. Now I keep checking to make sure they are tight.

[Tigerman_87]

Welcome to the forum! Looks like you've got some reading to do. Be sure to read throug EVERY tech tip in the "XS11 Info" section at the top of this page. You may not need it right now, but you will at some point down the road.

You didn't say how you determined that you had overfilled your oil, so I'll mention one thing about that. Always fill it on the CENTER stand (or held straight up), NOT on the side stand. The little viewing window is at the bottom of the engine case, just above the brake pedal. The top of the oil should be level with the center of the window. Also, Synthetic oil (like Mobil 1) has been reported to cause the clutch to slip. Its usually safer (and cheaper) to stick with regular 20W50 dino oil. Lots of threads on that topic here, so if you're interested, you could read for days!

Air filters (and oil filters) can be obtained at many online vendors, including e-bay. There are 2 types, and you get to choose which one you like better. The foam type needs to be oiled (by hand, rubbing the oil into the foam) and is cheaper, and the other type gets washed and sprayed with filter prep stuff in a spray can.

PartsNmore.com sells them for $18.00



And Bikebandit.com sells them for $48.10
You'll notice that prices vary a lot between vendors, so it helps to shop around.

You've found the right place for all possible information you will ever need about these bikes, and there are a ton of great people here to help you learn it. Ask any question you might have, and you will be sure to get an answer - sometimes it's even a helpful one!

Thanks for the info! When I checked the oil, I would set it upright, and look at the little window. I probably didn't get an accurate reading because I didn't have it on the center stand, I was holding it upright. I probably didn't have it completely upright, for fear of the bike falling on me :P
When I took it to my cousin's, he showed me how to put it on the center stand, and that is when we found out it had too much oil.

He said besides having too much oil, some gas might have gotten into the oil. If this is the case...thats bad >.< So I think when I change my oil, I might change it twice.

Empty old oil, put in cheap O'Reilly's brand oil, let it run some, empty, then change the filter and put in the oil.
And while we are on the subject, you mentioned Mobile 1 and other synthetics might make the clutch slip...I don't want that, but I want good engine protection. What would you reccomend? I usually use Valvoline in my cars. And what weight is best?

[CatatonicBug]

I usually use Valvoline in my cars. And what weight is best?

You've just asked the question that opens the BIGGEST cans of worms on this site... There are preferences all over the place, and everyone will give you their own reasons for what oil to use. However, Viscocity is "usually" 20W50 (some run with lighter grades, especially in cooler climates or winter), and MOST people avoid synthetics in the engine (some use it with no problems). Middle and final drive can be synthetic though, and any 90w synthetic will be fine. Be sure to change those oils at least once a year.

As for brand, if you prefer Valvoline, go right ahead and use that. I was raised as a Castrol kid, and others like brands like Amsol. You'd probably even be fine with the cheap O'Reilly brand. The main thing to look for is the EPA stamp on the label. Make sure it DOES NOT have Friction Modifiers in it.

You can test for fuel in the oil by dipping a stick in the oil, and trying to light it. If it lights easily, there is fuel in it. If not, you're probably safe. Fuel usually gets in the oil only if the carbs have gotten stuck, and the petcocks leaked at the same time. You'll usually see fuel in the airbox before it gets in the oil. Unless it's been a long time (several years) since it's last oil change, a single change should be fine either way.

BTW, we are a picture-loving bunch here, so please post some pics of your ride so we can all see what you've got! You have to upload them to a hosting site like Photobuket, then link to them in your post here. More details are in the How To section of the forum.

[Bigge_al]

Did not notice if Bug offered but Bug has the owners manunals and repair manual on his personal site if you look at one of his post or replies to see the link for free download.

[Tigerman_87]

Did not notice if Bug offered but Bug has the owners manunals and repair manual on his personal site if you look at one of his post or replies to see the link for free download.

I found the link to his site with the manual a few days before I created my account :P Tomorrow when I get off work I changing the oil, and then I will take it for a cruise, and a bath

I will take some pics after that.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Al,

It's in his(Bug's) signature!

Hey Tiger,

The early model carbs use SOLID metal float needle valve/seats combos, and they can get a groove worn in them that can prevent them from sealing properly. Then the carb floods, can flow forward into the engine, past the rings and into the oil! Also debris, rust particles, etc., from the gastank can get into the carbs, and wedge between needle/seat and also cause to flood, leak. The petocks are vacuum controlled, but they too can get worn, and not seal completely when the engine shuts off, leaks down the fuel lines to the carbs, and along with the leaky needle valves, you get fuel in the oil!

SO....would suggest a look inside your carbs, cleaning them, installing inline fuel filters, and possibly even doing the Viton rubber tipped valve MOD usin the XV900 valve seats/valves...they are screw in and will fit the carbs, the later model XS carbs used a different design, and do not work with the early carbs, and you can't just put the needle valve in the old seat, it will stick!

The oil gets contaminated with just a few thousand miles worth of riding, and so using Synth ends up being a waste anyways, just change it with DINO every 3K miles, or sooner if you like, and it's the API seal that you want the lower half to be blank..no friction modifiers!

Yes...Please read thru the tech tips before doing any of the service, and come back here with any questions you can't find answers to!
T.C.

[Tigerman_87]

Well I changed the oil, it wasn't THAT dirty, but HOLY CRAP THE OIL FILTER!!! That thing was so dirty and cruddy its not even funny! And there was indeed too much oil in the bike. I also dipped a screwdriver in the oil I drained and tried to light it, and no go. That means no fuel in the oil! I got all the parts cleaned up good, and put in the perdy new filter with some 20-50 castrol (didn't have anything but 10-30 for valvoline). I took off the airbox, and there was about 1.5 inches of oil in there >.<. I cleaned it out well, and took out the filter.





The bottom half was drenched in oil, but I soaked it up, and blew off the filter. I don't have the money to get a new one right now, I spent most of my check on supplies for my project car. But after all the work I took it out for a ride and HOLY CRAP. I think it is almost to its power potential! Me and my buddy went out to this 10 mile stretch of backroad. It is super smooth, no bumbs, some real gradual curves... and no cops

He has a 2005 1100 Buel, and I blew him away! We got on this road and I rode her wide open. Scared me a bit when the front end started getting....feathery...

anywho, i promised pics of her, so here you guys go

[CatatonicBug]

Nice ride!! Good to hear you got her running well. That air filter should be fine for now. It's not perfect, but as long as it's not soaking in oil anymore, it should be fine. I would imagine the PO got lazy and only changed the oil, and not the filter, leading to the nasty oil filter. Just keep up on the regular maintenance, and you've got yourself a bike that will easily run another 30 years! Isn't it cool to be able to show up a modern bike with something this old?!

[Ivan]

Thanks for the info! When I checked the oil, I would set it upright, and look at the little window. I probably didn't get an accurate reading because I didn't have it on the center stand, I was holding it upright. I probably didn't have it completely upright, for fear of the bike falling on me :P
When I took it to my cousin's, he showed me how to put it on the center stand, and that is when we found out it had too much oil.

He said besides having too much oil, some gas might have gotten into the oil. If this is the case...thats bad >.< So I think when I change my oil, I might change it twice.

Empty old oil, put in cheap O'Reilly's brand oil, let it run some, empty, then change the filter and put in the oil.
And while we are on the subject, you mentioned Mobile 1 and other synthetics might make the clutch slip...I don't want that, but I want good engine protection. What would you reccomend? I usually use Valvoline in my cars. And what weight is best?

Valvoline four stroke motorcycle 20w50 has been about the same price as regular car oil at autozone the last few times i have been there. No problems with it. I haven't had any problems with synthetic, or even tractor oil from orschelins, so YMMV

[CatatonicBug]

Valvoline four stroke motorcycle 20w50 has been about the same price as regular car oil at autozone

I refuse to buy oil at autozone. They charge way too much. WalMart has 5qt jugs for the same price as Autozone's 4qt jugs. My cage uses exactly 5qts, so it bugs me that Autozone doesn't sell the 5qt jugs. Same goes for filters too...

[Ivan]

I refuse to buy oil at autozone. They charge way too much. WalMart has 5qt jugs for the same price as Autozone's 4qt jugs. My cage uses exactly 5qts, so it bugs me that Autozone doesn't sell the 5qt jugs. Same goes for filters too...

Well, i have yet to find any MC oil at MalWart for less than $9 a quart. But it changes from store to store...kinda like the azz pads only being for sale in Ada, OK.