Do you use the octy or not?

[markb80]

After years of off and on messing with fuel line routing I figured out a nice way to run the fuel lines so that no kinking occurs (NONE) and octopus eliminated. I posted drawings of it on the yahoo group. It involves using 2 fuel "Y"s instead of the "T"s. The Y's are available at z1enterprises. I will find the email with the scanned in drawings and post. It works better than pics and the boots hide the details. The stock routing with the octo commonly develops a kinked line on the left side, not necessarily shut but restricted. Bad design from the factory in my opinion. The single vacuum shutoff could have worked but the petcock angles on the special are wrong even for the factory routing. I will try to post drawings this weekend. I have had zero kinking with this setup, only nice smooth bends. Main feature is that the fuel Y's sit vertically between the 1-2 and 3-4 intake boots. Fuel lines from petcocks in this approach are routed to the Y's or the gap between the 1-2 and 3-4 intake boots. If you plan to use the factory petcocks as manual I recommend the factory rebuild parts, not aftermarket, especially the o-ring around the valve. The aftermarket ones are slightly bigger which makes the valves stiff.

[jjwaller]

I have not have any of the above insurance policies on my bike. Just a small gas tank and two filters. No petcocks see:

The fuel tank I can completely understand with that seat.
Couldn't possibly ride it any longer.
Question is, what are all the red, black wires and associated stuff in the 2nd shot??
Not to mention the thing sitting on the "seat"

[xs11bobber]

The fuel tank I can completely understand with that seat.
Couldn't possibly ride it any longer.
Question is, what are all the red, black wires and associated stuff in the 2nd shot??
Not to mention the thing sitting on the "seat"

Mine looked like that for a while, lol

[Clerek]

C'mon you can't judge the before picture...

I can take another picture with the carbs off tomorrow if you would like! The whole wiring harness was crap, so the red, white and black wires are my attempt to remedy that old crap with new crap...

-Rick

[trbig]

[QUOTE]I figured out a nice way to run the fuel lines so that no kinking occurs (NONE) and octopus eliminated./QUOTE]

Nothing complicated or any "Y" needed. Run the line from your left petcock to your right #3&4 carbs and vice-versa to the other side. Nice gradual loop, no kinks. No diagrams needed..


Tod

[markb80]

I think the diagrams would be good to post as there is a trick to it, I don't know how to add pics. The image feature wants a URL. If anyone wants to see the diagrams (and I think they will be very helpful) tell me how to add pdfs. thanks

[markb80]

I have done what you said re-using the T's and over time the lines start to kink due to the sharp bend required to route the fuel line out of the petcock and above the air box boots (but that is using standard rubber line). The problem is the petcock angles were wrong from the factory. They point about 45 degrees downward rather than near level. The petcocks point to the gap between the 1-2 and 3-4 carb boots. So I make use of that by putting a Y there (which meets the petcock angle perfect) and then snake the other fuel line from each petcock under and over the intake boots to the other Y. The bottom outlets of each Y cross each other and go under the airbox boots and to the carbs. This works MUCH better than re-using the T's and laying the lines on top of the airbox boots. Been there, tried that. However, if you use a non-hardening vinyl fuel line it may be fine and never kink to run them that way. I gave up on vinyl after getting sick of the earlier type that hardened. Rubber seems to work the best over time, but more prone to kinking than some. Tygon isn't bad, but tears easy and gets hard quicker than rubber.

If anyone can tell me how to post a pdf I'd be glad to, but the website will only let me enter a URL

[Clerek]

If you send me the pdf I can put it up on this thread.

iclerek@gmail.com

My email goes to my phone so I will do it as soon as I get it!

-Rick

[trbig]

I have done what you said re-using the T's and over time the lines start to kink due to the sharp bend required to route the fuel line out of the petcock and above the air box boots

Why are you trying to run them on TOP of the boots? Run a nice loop under your boots from one petcock to opposite side carbs..

I'm sure some would like to see how you have it, but you sure are making things harder than they need to be. Rubber, vinyl or whatever line.. no kinks that way.


Tod

[Geezer]

Nice paint job on the wheels.

Geezer

[markb80]

You can't just run one loop, each petcock has 2 outlets on the special. One is on and reserve, other is prime (or one is on and other is prime and reserve, can't remember). If you want full functionality you need both lines from both sides. Putting the T's under the airbox boots would cause sharp bends. What you said works for the standard tank though.

I sent a pdf to the member who said he would post it.

Keep in mind that the kinking issues that happen when you try to eliminate the octopus also happen to some degree if you don't eliminate the octopus. The factory setup had 8 fuel lines, 16 clips and 2 T's. Good Lord! It only works w/o kinking if fuel lines are preformed or cut to exactly the right length.

The best setup for the special is the one that doesn't cause fuel starvation due to kinking (either at first or over time) regardless of whether you have the octopus or not. Just getting that to happen is an accomplishment.

[markb80]

In the hand drawings I sent (soon to be posted), the lines from the petcock to the Y's must be short 1-2 inches (adjust length for good fit). Leave some slack in the loops under the airbox boots so the tank can be lifted without pulling lines off. Also, to remove carbs I take the bottom of the airbox off and undo the fuel lines at the carb (reaching up). The lines stay put pretty well as they are laced around the airbox boots and the carbs come out. You can try putting inline filters in the loops underneath if you like. A buddy did that with the 90 degree fuel filters. It worked once the air bubbles were out of the filters.

[Crazcnuk]

"Many don't feel the need for a 3rd backup"

Not sure what your 3rd back up is.

There are two things that keep your gas in your tank, the float needles, which will leak on you sooner or later' and your vacuum shut off valves.

If you eliminate the shut off, you just have the floats.

If you have some other shut off valve, then you added it, which means your the one that paid for them.

The stock system works fine. I just leave it alone. I don't really care about the hoses or anything esle as I tend not to have to do anything with them most of the time.

I don't shut my petcocks off, as I have no need to, hence the beauty of the automatic system.

[Clerek]

In the hand drawings I sent (soon to be posted), the lines from the petcock to the Y's must be short 1-2 inches (adjust length for good fit). Leave some slack in the loops under the airbox boots so the tank can be lifted without pulling lines off. Also, to remove carbs I take the bottom of the airbox off and undo the fuel lines at the carb (reaching up). The lines stay put pretty well as they are laced around the airbox boots and the carbs come out. You can try putting inline filters in the loops underneath if you like. A buddy did that with the 90 degree fuel filters. It worked once the air bubbles were out of the filters.

These are the pictures he was talking about

-Rick

[Clerek]

Nice paint job on the wheels.

Geezer

HA thanks! I messed it up when I mounted the tires so I have to touch them up, or not. It looks good the way it is too!

-Rick