Is it a common problem

[Elevener]

For the cam chain tensioner not to hold an adjustment? After I adjust it the bike sounds fine but after a short ride it gets noisy, adjust again and sounds fine.

[thewiz]

Shouldn't be ...

that way. Don't misunderstand me here, please, are you sure that you're getting the set screw and lock nut tight. Carefull though ... only takes a few pounds of torque ... could possibly be a worn or bent plunger rod where the set screw contacts it.

[John]

Or stripped threads in the tensioner body.

[Elevener]

Set screw is tight, not stripped. I have only ridden this bike a few hundred miles now. Its noisy when I get home so I just readjusted it before.

But I just went out and started it after it cooled down (without adjusting it) and it isnt noisy? Are these motors just twice as noisy when hot?

[thewiz]

Don't know about MORE noisey ..

but the oil certainly thins. What are you running? I like the 15w40 Dello or Rotella.

[Ivan]

I have had mine loosen up when I run excessively hard for a while...

**cough cough***like when trying to keep pace with TRBig **cough cough**

[Ken Talbot]

I assume that when you are adjusting it, you are following the correct procedure (i.e. remove the timing plate cover on the left side, rotate the engine a couple of turns clockwise, stop rotating exactly when the "C" mark on the timing plate aligns with the stationary pointer, loosen the lock nut, loosen the stopper bolt, thghten the stopper bolt to 4.3 ft-lb, tighten the lock nut to 6.5 ft-lb, reinstall the timing plate cover).

Sure sounds to me like the threads in the body of the tensioner are stripped, but they have just not peeled out of the hole yet.

BTDT...

[TopCatGr58]

I have had mine loosen up when I run excessively hard for a while...

**cough cough***like when trying to keep pace with TRBig **cough cough**

Hey Ivan,

I've run mine for several hours in the 5-7.5 rpm range when running thru the twisties, and have never had mine work loose.

I know the great team that got your machine put back together (BIG KUDOS) are already done, but IF it's using the same motor, then perhaps you or they need to take the valve cover off, and protect the cam chain slack and remove the tensioner completely to inspect it for pending/existing housing thread strippage!? Perhaps time for a helicoil fix? I would hate to see all of their hard work go to waste by throwing a cam gear/crank gear tooth and bending a bunch of valves ala Bohn Frazer!
T.C.

[Elevener]

Well, I certainly bought this bike for thrashing. Not to start an oil thread but Im running Valvoline Max life 20-50 in it right now. Figured a 30 year old bike could use a little conditioning. My whole life I used GTX 20-50 in everything from Harleys to Toyotas. Till my 3rd old Dodge just decided it didnt like it ( noisy) Never had a vehicle that didnt like one type of oil before. I think Ill change it today.

Ken- I adjusted it per the book. I actually have my motorcycle certification but am the first to admit I got it long ago and then got into hotrods so never really put it to work. I think it may not be the tensioner. Maybe Im just not used to it yet, just the fact its much noisier when hot bothers me.


* cant spell

[GARTHXS]

jat

do not use oil with friction modifiers in it it will make your clutch slip eventually

Well, I certainly bought this bike for thrashing. Not to start an oil thread but Im running Valvoline Max life 20-50 in it right now. Figured a 30 year old bike could use a little conditioning. My whole life I used GTX 20-50 in everything from Harleys to Toyotas. Till my 3rd old Dodge just decided it didnt like it ( noisy) Never had a vehicle that didnt like one type of oil before. I think Ill change it today.

Ken- I adjusted it per the book. I actually have my motorcycle certification but am the first to admit I got it long ago and then got into hotrods so never really put it to work. I think it may not be the tensioner. Maybe Im just not used to it yet, just the fact its much noisier when hot bothers me.


* cant spell