slow lazy clutch ???? clunk when you shift????

[mxmikie]

you start your bike in gear with the clutch pulled and it wants to drag you down the street ???? bike been sitting for a while and now when you ride it it clunks when you shift ??? the bike has more than you want "gear clash" well for about $8.00 you can get rid of most if not all of the above problems i have a 1978 xs w/48,000 on the clock bike sat since 2000 the "gear clash" and the lazy clutch syndrome had set in since i live in the middle of nowhere i only noticed it when i was going to town and then when i got back (middle of nowhere = no shifting) then one of the guys in town said that heard me coming a mile away he asked if i had fine or lumpy grind in the cases then i thought might be time for a clutch then i thought if im going to replace the clutch lets try somthing so i went to my oil and additive shed and there on the wall was a tube of equa-torque rear diff additive for posi-trac rear ends in cars (about $8.00) i added it to the crankcase of the bike and went for a ride looks like i don't need a new clutch i cant believe how smooooooth and quite the trans is ....... just thought i would share

[GARTHXS]

tractor

these bikes will shift like a tractor any way and if you let it sit on the side stand for a while the oil drains out if the clutch , i like to warm mine up and work the clutch a few times and make sure it is upright and then it will go a little easier into gear from start

[randy]

That diff additive might be great for bevel cut gears and limited slip diff clutch packs, but what will it do to rod & crank bearings? You do know that our engines & trannys share the same crankcase oil?

You might have tried a simple clutch adjustment before going for a fix in a can.

[mxmikie]

putting the bike on the side stand and working the clutch while the bike warms up will not get rid of the varnish on the clutch(cause of sticking-drag-lazy) as for harming the engine equa-torque is a friction modifier equa-torque will remove varnish and make your oil slicker and it wont harm your seals but if you like working your clutch while your bike warms up and you don't mind the sticky/lazy clutch and all the gear clash when you shift(cold or hot) then all i can say is you better not invest the $8.00 for the snake oil and keep on clashing

[jmnjrpa]

Hey MX,

Give us a heads up in a couple of months. I for one would like to know if it is holding up.

Thanks

[motoman]

We'll know, when it spins a main bearing...............

[3Phase]

... if you let it sit on the side stand for a while the oil drains out if the clutch ...

Not to hijack the thread but the clutch and the transmission get pressurized oil from the oil pump.

If you lose oil pressure at the clutch the whole engine loses pressure.


Regards,

Scott

[TopCatGr58]

Hey MxMikie,

IF you wanted to get rid of VARNISH on your clutch plates, then a 1/2 bottle of Mystery Marvel oil running in a warm engine with NO LOAD for 5 minutes, and then draining, and then replacing with fresh oil would be another recommended technique. The friction modifiers of the Equa-torque would concern me because of actually making the friction plates and steels TOO slippery, causing clutch slip. That's why they/we recommend if folks use auto oils to be sure that the lower half of the API seal is blank, no friction modifiers in it so as to not contribute to clutch slippage.! YMMV!

A fellow Newby Xsive had put in 5-30 oil in his machine and noticed that the engine shifted very roughly, etc.. Once we changed it to a good brand 20-50 blend, it shifted much smoother, ran quieter, etc.!
T.C.

[tjhummer]

I use Amsoil. I know it's pricey, but I like the ratings it gets and I have no clutch problems.

[mxmikie]

1900 miles and it just keeps getting smoother and smoother

[Macamon]

The calm before the storm. I would be very afraid.

[mxmikie]

another 1400 miles it feels like a new bike .......