clutch slips after second gear fix

[greg maz]

anything above 4k rpm Klonks says wait

I changed the clutch lever return spring, and the adjustment on the handle bar is at minimum

did I tightened the star plate too much or somthin?

[CatatonicBug]

The star plate should have been torqued to spec., so that's not the issue. Have you properly adjusted the clutch? There is a section in the manual about how to do it. Loosen the lock nut and the screw in the center of the clutch arm, and tighten the screw just till it seats. Then tighten the lock nut again, without allowing the screw to turn.

[greg maz]

THX!

guess I can do that without draining the oil by laying it on the side

rode Angeles Crest Highway 2 yesterday, the bike having no power under 2.2 k rpm and slipping around 4, some end turns got me the chills in those twisties and it was a bit hard going above 60mph

other than that, Klonk still makes klonk and the gears are just fine

How's the countershaft going catanonic?

[greg maz]

sorry it was petejw having trouble putting back all the little gears on the little shaft in the even littler block

[CatatonicBug]

No need to drain any oil at all. Only 2 phillips screws to access the clutch arm. Actually, if you ever needed to, you can remove the entire right side cover of the engine and remove the clutch without draining the oil at all. Just do it on the side stand, and the level is low enough that it stays away from the edge!

Mine is all fixed. Did that in Kansas City last weekend. I tore the entire rear end off this past Saturday to find a leak that we thought was coming from the middle drive, and ended up being a leak past the o-ring on the starter! My crankcase breather hose had a PCV valve in it, and I think it was causing a bit of positive pressure to build up in the crankcase, pushing oil out past the starter. I have installed a new hose, so we'll see if the leak continues. I'm hoping my boots will stay oil-free now...

[greg maz]

I had oily feet the whole time I was riding 2 CB650, tore the whole upper engine and got new oem gasket, they just leaked

one of the big things that I like form the yami is that unlike most japaneses from the same era, they don't piss!

sounds like you got it down, enjoy

[greg maz]

yep forgot that adjustment

went around the block
hammer 1st & 2nd so to speak

Klonk is back

[petejw]

yep that was me lol
ive had it back together for a while, i just couldnt
get that shaft back in after doing the washer swap,
so i just cut back the gears and all was sweet.
Glad to hear you got yours going well.

[Ken Talbot]

the adjustment on the handle bar is at minimum

There's most of the problem! The adjustment at the handle is only for adjusting the cable slack. It is NOT for adjusting the clutch. To adjust the clutch, you need to remove the sidecover and follow the clutch adjustment procedure. Check outthe clutch adjustment procedure.

[greg maz]

Thx Ken

it's not the first time I do this adjustment but I forgot ,it's was an easy fix.

I dunno how I could be mobile without internet

[greg maz]

Glad you made it too Pete

I read some member signature that said more or less:

"get a bigger hammer!"

[Bigfoot]

Loosen the lock nut and the screw in the center of the clutch arm, and tighten the screw just till it seats. Then tighten the lock nut again, without allowing the screw to turn.

Someone please correct me if I am wrong (and I don't have my manual handy) but I thought the correct proceedure was Loosen the lock nut and the screw in the center of the clutch arm, and tighten the screw just till it seats then back off 1/4 turn. Then tighten the lock nut again, without allowing the screw to turn.

[CatatonicBug]

Someone please correct me if I am wrong (and I don't have my manual handy) but I thought the correct proceedure was Loosen the lock nut and the screw in the center of the clutch arm, and tighten the screw just till it seats then back off 1/4 turn. Then tighten the lock nut again, without allowing the screw to turn.

I stand corrected! Sorry about that. Page 39 and 40 of the Yamaha manual explains it exactly as you describe. Back out 1/4 turn before tightening the lock nut. I should have looked at the manual before typing.