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1100 Carb sync. Please read

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  • 1100 Carb sync. Please read

    If you want a "GOOD" carb synconization, you must FIRST calibrate your Vacuum gauges!!

    (Moderators note - the following link will generate a pop-up ad that may be offensive to some)

    Here is the procedure: http://www.megaupload.com/?d=WC0A3044

    The download is free, the process is free and requires no parts or money.
    this will help you properly calibrate your gauges to top performance.

    If an Admin would please install this to the tech page!! Please.

    I did the calibration and then sync'd the carbs, Now my XS11 special will almost throw me right off the back of the bike.

    Good luck and happy tuning!!!
    Last edited by Ken Talbot; 07-28-2009, 06:46 PM. Reason: Add spam warning
    1979 XS1100SF Special.78 E motor/carbs, Jardine 4-2 exhaust, XS Green coils, Corbin seat, S.S. Brake lines, Hard cases, Heated grips.

    2012 FJR1300 Gen 2. Heli bar risers, R-gaza crash bars, mccruise cruise control.

    (2)2008 WR250R. Because kids outgrew others.

    2007 Suzuki V-Strom 1000. (Just added 2024) pre-crashed.

    1975 Kawasaki S1 250. My first bike. Still have it. NO I'm not selling it!!

    Most bike problems are caused by a loose nut connecting the handlebars and the seat!!

  • #2
    Originally posted by MindWebs View Post
    Now my XS11 special will almost throw me right off the back of the bike.
    well... thats what happens when you let your wife drive!
    Austin Ingalls

    MIDNIGHT FURY
    1979 XS1100 Special [Full Restore Project]
    XJ maxim rear air shocks
    KERKER 4-into-1 exhaust
    Pod Filters

    Money pit.......
    BLACKED OUT

    Comment


    • #3
      I calibrated my gauges by attaching them, one-at-a-time, to my vacuum brake bleeder. I pumped the bleeder up to 20 cm of vacuum on the bleeder's gauge and checked the reading on each synch gauge. I put little pieces of tape on each gauge so I would remember to take the appropriate 'kentucky windage' when doing the synch. I recently purchased a carbtune pro, and found that I had my gauge set dead on using the above procedure. If you don't have a power bleeder, you can achieve very good results by attaching them to the same carb tap, at the same rpm, and taking a reading. I looked at the above link, but I'm hesitant to download executable files unless I really know the website I'm downloading from.
      I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.

      '79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines

      Comment


      • #4
        I have sticks.
        They're always calibrated!
        XS1100SF
        XS1100F

        Comment


        • #5
          JC Whitney Gauges

          I bought a set of vac gauges from JC Whitney to do my carb sync. They are similar to the ones used/calibrated in the "download" mentioned. (Mechanical diaphragm and a pointer/needle...).

          Before I actually used them on the bike, I "tee-d" them all together so the four gauges would read the single vacuum connection. None of them read the same amount so I took the gauge covers off and adjusted each one to read the same number.

          Didn't use a calibrated vacuum source so now there may be an error in the actual vacuum present and what the gauges read. But then again all of the gauges read and would read the same amount of vacuum whichever carb they were hooked up to. Still good enough for determining which carbs are higher/lower than the others.



          And YES....even though the bike would start/run, the "sync" did wonders for performance and peace of mind.

          Comment


          • #6
            I have sticks.
            They're always calibrated!
            I started with a set of mercury sticks. They were great until I got a backfire through the carbs while doing a synch. It shot fuel down the line and contaminated the mercury destroying it's usability. That's one thing I like about the carbtune - it uses steel rods instead of mercury, and if you get fuel in the chambers it can be taken apart and cleaned. Works just like mercury sticks but without the problems associated with mercury.
            I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.

            '79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines

            Comment

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