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  • 80 MNS restoration

    I am restoring an 80 MNS, at least I think it's an 80, built in November of 80. I bought the bike in 82, it had been in a wreck, had to restore it, 3500 miles. I rode it till 94, I remember it as the smoothest, most comfortable bike I had ever ridden, next to a dresser which I have no interest in, and it packed a punch. I really loved this bike, still do. I could afford a newer bike but I don't want one. I just want to get back on my XS [called Sheba] and head out.
    I don't know why I stopped riding her, I think it was when I bought a Mustang. In any case she was running fine at that time 20,000 miles. In I think 2002, I wanted to bring her out of mothballs and go riding, changed liquids [thank God I did that], cleaned carbs and started her up. There was a nasty misfire on #3 cylinder, tried all kinds of stuff and concluded that the coils were bad. She sat again till last week. I am retired now and have the time to do this right. I replaced the engine oil and the pistons are free, will replace all other fluids when I am sure the engine runs right, no riding.
    On thinking now about the misfire, which I am sure I will still have to deal with, it seems that since she was still running fine when I parked her, that due to the wasted spark system and the other 3 cylinders running fine that the coils must be OK. Whew! that was a weird sentence, my apologies to grammar buffs. Anyway it seems like it must be either the coil wire or cap, tried new plug.
    I pulled the carbs and they are frozen shut by gas varnish, I am pondering which type of solvent to free the slide and dissolve the varnish. The carbs are painted black with plastic and rubber parts in them, even the floats are frozen. Last time I rebuilt then I used a Safety Clean machine which worked fine, but I no longer have access to it. I need a solvent that will free the slide without harming the rubber or paint.
    The gas tank has surface rust inside it which mixed with the old gas has made a type of sludge. My plan is to clean it out as well as possible with rocks or nuts or coarse sand or maybe all of them at once and then treat with Ospho. This is some neat stuff, it is a mixture of phosphoric acid and some other chemicals. The other chemicals perform what is known as a phosphate conversion, closely related to parkerization , think that is misspelled, sorry again grammar buffs. Parkerisation? is used as a very durable coating on firearms. Basically this conversion turns rust into an inert compound which forms a protective coating to prevent more rust. If I can get the tank clean enough I will just Ospho it and run inline filters. Ospho can be had at any auto body supply shop or any body shop can order it for you. I have used this stuff a lot and it works. I am wary of using any sealer that is used over anything but bare metal, problems with sealers can create nightmares.
    I am sure I will be running into other problems as well. I have already learned a LOT from this wonderful site and will try to keep you posted as to my progress. Thanks in advance for any tips or suggestions.
    Doug
    81 LH

  • #2
    Welcome to Ch 11

    Welcome, Blackdog.
    I know an owner who swears by the Yamaha carb cleaner for soaking the carbs. It's water-based and he says it will not harm the rubber and plastic parts.
    Personally, I've had very good luck with the carb cleaner sold at Advanced Auto and even the one sold at Walmart. They both melt the varnish away easily, but be careful with getting it on soft tissue skin and your eyes.
    Congratulations on your retirement (wish I was there).
    Good luck on your project.
    1980G Standard, Restored
    Kerker 4 - 1
    850 Rear End Mod
    2-21 Flashing LED Arrays on either side of license plate for Brake Light Assist, 1100 Lumen Cree Aux Lights,
    Progressive springs, Showa rear shocks
    Automatic CCT
    1980GH Special, Restored
    Stock Exhaust, New Handlebars, 1" Spacer in Fork Springs, Automatic CCT, Showa Rear Shocks
    '82 XJ1100 (Sold)
    Automatic CCT, RC Engineering 4 X 1 Exhaust, K&N Pods, #50 Pilot Jets, YICS Eliminator. Sorely missed.

    Comment


    • #3
      Welcome to the site! Nice to see another MNS out there. Be careful with the rust removal in the tank - you don't want to damage the fuel sensor sending unit. Carb cleaner in the spray can is usually all it takes to clean the carbs. If you want to, you ca take them apart (separate them from each other) and put them in an ultrasonic cleaner. Harbor Freight sells a small one rather cheap. I've heard some people have really good results with the ultrasonic cleaner and simple green. Just be careful not to soak the carbs in carb cleaner, as that will kill the butterfly shaft seals.

      Next step is to post some pictures! We like to see what we're talking about here! (Use photobucket.com to upload, then link to the pictures in a post here)
      1980 XS850SG - Sold
      1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special (Sold) - purchased 9/29/08
      Fully Vetterized and Dynojet Kit added, Heated Grips, Truck-Lite LED headlight, Accel Coils, Irridium plugs, TKAT Fork Brace, XS850LH Final Drive & Black SS Brake lines from Chacal.
      Here's my web page devoted to my bike! XS/XJ User's Manuals there, and the XJ1100 Service Manual and both XS1100 Service manuals (free download!).

      Whether you think you can, or you think you cannot - You're right.
      -H. Ford

      Comment


      • #4
        Yes, any spray carb cleaner will free the stuck parts. Seafoam makes a cleaner called Deep Creep that is a spray and would likely work well.

        If your bike was made in 11/80, it's an '81. The vehicle year change over is at the end of August, so, in any given year, vehicles made after aug are models of the following year.
        Nice day, if it doesn't rain...

        '05 ST1300
        '83 502/502 Monte Carlo for sale/trade

        Comment


        • #5
          Thanks

          Thank you guys for your input, I had completely forgotten about fuel sensor. I am going to have to read up on how to remove it. Special thanks to CatatonicBug. The first time I was on this site I downloaded manuals, what a nice thing for you to do. I will rely on them heavily. Today I am off to the parts store to get some carb cleaner and attack those carbs. Once again thanks to all of you.
          Doug
          81 LH

          Comment


          • #6
            No problem. It's the least I can do to return the huge amount of help I've received on this site. If you're not sure of the "official" model yerar of your bike, you can compare your Serial Number to the list I posted in this thread, and that will tell you for sure. As a quick check, if you have swirly wheels like the XJ, it's an '81. If the wheels are like all the other XS's, it's an '80.
            Last edited by CatatonicBug; 07-28-2009, 09:25 AM.
            1980 XS850SG - Sold
            1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special (Sold) - purchased 9/29/08
            Fully Vetterized and Dynojet Kit added, Heated Grips, Truck-Lite LED headlight, Accel Coils, Irridium plugs, TKAT Fork Brace, XS850LH Final Drive & Black SS Brake lines from Chacal.
            Here's my web page devoted to my bike! XS/XJ User's Manuals there, and the XJ1100 Service Manual and both XS1100 Service manuals (free download!).

            Whether you think you can, or you think you cannot - You're right.
            -H. Ford

            Comment


            • #7
              Its an 81, thanks.
              Doug
              81 LH

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by CatatonicBug View Post
                No problem. It's the least I can do to return the huge amount of help I've received on this site. If you're not sure of the "official" model yerar of your bike, you can compare your Serial Number to the list I posted in this thread, and that will tell you for sure. As a quick check, if you have swirly wheels like the XJ, it's an '81. If the wheels are like all the other XS's, it's an '80.
                the 81-h doesn't have the swirly wheels

                Comment


                • #9
                  Right! Only the '81 LH does. They used the MNS in '81 as a precurser to the XJ. Same wheels, and same linked brake system (rear MC runs rear brakes AND the left front brake at the same time). None of the other XS's had those features.
                  1980 XS850SG - Sold
                  1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special (Sold) - purchased 9/29/08
                  Fully Vetterized and Dynojet Kit added, Heated Grips, Truck-Lite LED headlight, Accel Coils, Irridium plugs, TKAT Fork Brace, XS850LH Final Drive & Black SS Brake lines from Chacal.
                  Here's my web page devoted to my bike! XS/XJ User's Manuals there, and the XJ1100 Service Manual and both XS1100 Service manuals (free download!).

                  Whether you think you can, or you think you cannot - You're right.
                  -H. Ford

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by pinkelephant View Post
                    the 81-h doesn't have the swirly wheels

                    Nice looking specimen of an 'H!
                    Ken Talbot

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      For the gas tank yu may want to do the electrolosis cleaning. Member 3Phase did a great writeup on how to do it recently.
                      Life is what happens while your planning everything else!

                      When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.

                      81 XS1100 Special - Humpty Dumpty
                      80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection


                      Previously owned
                      93 GSX600F
                      80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
                      81 XS1100 Special
                      81 CB750 C
                      80 CB750 C
                      78 XS750

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Pinkelephant...
                        That IS a beauty!
                        '82 XJ1100J Maxim (has been sold.)

                        '79 F "Time Machine"... oh yeah, Baby.... (Sold back to Maximan)

                        2011 Kaw Concours 14 ABS

                        In the warden's words from Cool Hand Luke;
                        "What we have here is a failure to communicate."

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Thanks for all the replies, as far as photos go the bike is in pieces and I am sure you all know what an XS 11 looks like. Couldn't work on it yesterday because of photo shoot, but day before I went to Advance and got carb cleaner. Decided to clean one carb individually first, to get my feet wet. Found spray with nozzle too explosive to use so I filled shot glass with cleaner and brushed it on. After about 3 hours of daubing it finally loosened up so I could disassemble and properly clean, except for the pivot pin for the floats. Tried carb cleaner, brake cleaner, and WD40, am using plastic and wood drifts to tap with but I am afraid of applying too much pressure to the delicate upright posts. I'll figure something out. I realize this is a very inefficient way of working but I have the time. Other 3 carbs will be treated as a unit. I am missing some hardware from last disassemble, brackets and hardware for the air cleaner box, one clamp where the box connects to the carb, screws for the ignition side cover [allen heads], and the tank bolt and big washer for the gas tank. More than willing to pay good price if anyone has a parts bike. Waiting to see if anyone has any ideas for pivot pin before I proceed. Thanks again for the help I have gotten, have to look for 3phase article on tank. This is a wonderful site, if only people in the "real world" could treat each other the way you all do here.
                          Doug
                          81 LH

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Hey BlackDog,

                            First, take a look at this tech tip for one technique!

                            Next, look at this thread about a special tool by Ken Talbot for ideas that you could make yourself to do the job.

                            The design of the pin is stupid! It's actually larger at the head than further down the shaft, and so that's partly why it sticks in the float post when it's pressed all the way in! And trying to tap it out from the other side is often what causes the post that it's wedged into to break!

                            A heat gun with some penetrating oil/PB Blaster spritzed on it, and the heat cycled, hot, cool, hot, cool, can help break corrosion between the steel pin and the aluminum post! Good Luck!
                            T.C.
                            T. C. Gresham
                            81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
                            79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
                            History shows again and again,
                            How nature points out the folly of men!

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by pinkelephant View Post
                              the 81-h doesn't have the swirly wheels

                              Thats the bike I always wanted...an '81 Venturer with the 6gal tank and Yamaha touring pkg...and thats a beaut!!!!
                              1980 XS650G Special-Two
                              1993 Honda ST1100

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