Electrical problem or main fuse?

[B@tm@n]

Hi all,

I had to cover the last 200 miles of an intense trek covering over 1,000 miles around Upstate NY and New England, without headlight, turn signal nor rpm gauge and instrument cluster lighting. Fortunately, since it was getting dark, my hazards and rear taillight were functioning (but not the brake light).

Of course the first thing I checked was the fuse panel (right side) which revealed no fault.

Since my shop manual is of no help in this matter, what other checks should I perform before taking the bike apart?

Thanks,

Puzzled...

B@tm@n

[dbeardslee]

B@tm@n - I checked my Haynes manual, and it looks like all four of the items you mentioned have connections in the handlebar switch. I'd start by taking it apart and making sure the connections are good. Over time they get pretty cruddy inside.

[CatatonicBug]

I would look at the electrical connector behind the fuse block. There is a big white plastic connector there that connects the alternator to the battery. It gets corroded and heats up, melting the connector and shorting out. The Tach is connected to the alternator, so it tends to be an indicator.

[ScottsXS]

i just had the same problem dont check the fuse check the fuse connection. for me the signal fuse clips lost their strength and broke.....real easy to check, with running grab onto the signal fuse and wiggle

[B@tm@n]

Thanks for the quick response!

B@tm@n - I checked my Haynes manual, and it looks like all four of the items you mentioned have connections in the handlebar switch. I'd start by taking it apart and making sure the connections are good. Over time they get pretty cruddy inside.

I'll look into it!

[B@tm@n]

Thanks for the quick response!

I would look at the electrical connector behind the fuse block. There is a big white plastic connector there that connects the alternator to the battery. It gets corroded and heats up, melting the connector and shorting out. The Tach is connected to the alternator, so it tends to be an indicator.

I'll be checking that too!

[B@tm@n]

Thanks for the quick response!

I would look at the electrical connector behind the fuse block. There is a big white plastic connector there that connects the alternator to the battery. It gets corroded and heats up, melting the connector and shorting out. The Tach is connected to the alternator, so it tends to be an indicator.

i just had the same problem dont check the fuse check the fuse connection. for me the signal fuse clips lost their strength and broke.....real easy to check, with running grab onto the signal fuse and wiggle

Another helpful clue. I should be running my machine in no time now!

[B@tm@n]

Electrical problem solved

Hi all!

Well, turns out the issue was in a way worse than we all anticipated!

Due to my limited tooling, ressources and experience I had no other choice but to hand over my prized possession to a trusted shop here in Quebec City.

Fortunately, the head mechanic is an old acquaintance who's been there for nearly forty years (he started at age 16!). He confided that very few people could have located the fault which was in part due to the age of the bike and its dated and complex electrics.

Bottom line, all that was needed was a main relay and to be safer he replaced the old fuse panel with a more modern and reliable version.

While they were at it I had all the oils, engine, trans, diff, changed. All this for $350. Not cheap you say? Maybe, but saving hours of frustration and riding before the cold season, that's priceless!

Thanks again to all who make owning an XS11 such a unique experience. And thanks for caring for your fellow riders.

B@tm@n

[CatatonicBug]

What's a "main relay"? Must a terminology mixup, but I'm just trying to picture the repair in my mind.

Glad you got it all sorted out, and now you won't have to worry about your fuse block anymore! Do you know if the mechanic moved the main (30amp) fuse to the new fuse block too? Some people forget that one.

[dbeardslee]

There's a starter relay (the little square box near the fuseblock that the positive battery cable runs to), and there's another relay under the gas tank on a rubber mount. Was it one of those that was replaced?