Need an electric guru

[BigDick]

I have a large bag of 3 amp diodes good for up to 250v. You don't by a diode based on it's minimum voltage. I'll send you one for the cost of postage.

Geezer

I really appreciate it, I went ahead and just ordered the one from yamarobbers. $11. Next time I'll send you shipping costs if that's ok.

[TopCatGr58]

"b.walker5"; could you say more as to why the rail type fuse block would be the wrong type for a replacement. (And anybody else that might have an opinion about this..............)

Hey Carlton,

A couple of folks have done the RAIL TYPE/Gang type fuseblock repair, IIRC, it was SCOTT/3Phase, but not sure, but what he did was combine all 3 of the POWER supply wires into the main terminal for the GANG fuse block, so that it could then feed the individual fused circuits/terminals that came off of the other end of the gang block! The fuseblock that I sell has separate rails/circuits for each fuse, with the wires being plugged into both sides of each fuse slot, just like the OEM fuse block is set up!

Those folks with plenty of electrical knowhow like 3Phase have no problem rewiring their fuseblock to use the GANG type, but most of "us" shadetree survivalists are happy just using the same style as the OEM, just using the solid ATCO style fuses instead of the glass ones!
T.C.

[b.walker5]

"b.walker5"; could you say more as to why the rail type fuse block would be the wrong type for a replacement. (And anybody else that might have an opinion about this..............)

If you check the wiring diagram you'll find that 3 of the fuses are tied together with a common feed but the 4th is the main fuse and is fed directly from the battery, which feeds power to the main switch, which in turn supplies power to the other 3 fuses. If you have a common rail fuse block for all 4 you would have all circuits live all the time, rendering the main switch obsolete. Also, its a lot simpler for the average DIY guy to figure out when changing blocks. Wire for wire changes are easier to understand than being left with a few wires with no homes.

[oldnortonrider]

OK; TC & b.walker5 ~~ I appreciate the input. I did put one of these GANG/RAIL types on my '81, a few months back. Had to strain my brain a bit, to really "think" my way along. It works alright, but would not have been a proper mod, except for the fact that the '81s do have the main fuse separate and on the other side , in its own separate jim-dandy fuse holder. If main 30 amp fuse was on fuse block, together, with the other fuses, as is the case with '78s, '79s, and '80s~~definitely would want to use the type that TopCat has available.

It's actually a long story, as to why I "did not go ahead" and get TC's fuse block to start with;..............I didn't realize this "gang/rail type" was what I actually had until I got 15 miles back to home base from the autoparts store, and saw that it wuz MUCH different than what I had intended it to be. I was really quite confused for a good while, and pis**d, to boot, but had to get it done that same day. And to make things still yet more complicated, the PO had a different glass type fuse panel on there, and had spliced a bunch of different colored (wrong colors) wires to the wires that I was working with.............lotsa black tape, and splicings to unwind..............you get the picture...............

.............yes; it can be made to work; proper; "with the '81s". But, like b.walker5 sez: you'll end up with a couple wires "lookin' for a home". I don't recommend this type fuse block, unless you kinda get "stuck" like I did.

I did learn a good bit, making this "complicated" conversion. I've changed a few things since I first did it. I still may end up getting TC's fuse type, and put it originally, the way I thought I was starting out to put it.

[3Phase]

It was not I!

Carlton, if you're popping fuses and burning bulbs but not burning up wires then it's most likely that the voltage is rising too high. Check the voltage with a meter as you raise engine above 2000 RPMs.

If the voltage regulator is not regulating the voltage there could be a bad ground connection; a bad connection at the regulator (the two thin Brown and Green wires under the seat connect to the volatge regulator) or the regulator/rectifier unit itself is bad.

A couple of folks have done the RAIL TYPE/Gang type fuseblock repair, IIRC, it was SCOTT/3Phase, but not sure, but what he did was combine all 3 of the POWER supply wires into the main terminal for the GANG fuse block, so that it could then feed the individual fused circuits/terminals that came off of the other end of the gang block! The fuseblock that I sell has separate rails/circuits for each fuse, with the wires being plugged into both sides of each fuse slot, just like the OEM fuse block is set up!

Those folks with plenty of electrical knowhow like 3Phase have no problem rewiring their fuseblock to use the GANG type, but most of "us" shadetree survivalists are happy just using the same style as the OEM, just using the solid ATCO style fuses instead of the glass ones!
T.C.

It was Yamaha!

The Headlight, Signal and Ignition circuits already have the Brown wire in common. They're on when the key is turned on and they're spliced and soldered to the main Brown wire from the ignition switch just upstream of the fuse block. The Blue wire for the Tail light circuit runs on a separate wire and it, too, comes on when the key is on.

I replaced the Yamaha fuseblock with a Littlefuse fuseblock from Radio Shack.




I've done enough rewiring and rewrapping of the O.E.M. harness and I don't want to do any more whilst all of the magic purple smoke remains inside of the conductors. As a bonus, the old-school fuseblock fits inside the original Yamaha factory fuse cover. That give me enough room to store a spare TCI underneath the right-hand side cover.

I do not want to walk....


Regards,

Scott

[BigDick]

I've done enough rewiring and rewrapping of the O.E.M. harness and I don't want to do any more whilst all of the magic purple smoke remains inside of the conductors.

heh, sounds like me man. I've had it unwrapped from the neck to just at the back of the gas tank. Then, from just back of the battery on all the way to the end. At least now I know where everything goes and that there's no breaks or thin points.

[oldnortonrider]

Carlton, if you're popping fuses and burning bulbs but not burning up wires then it's most likely that the voltage is rising too high. Check the voltage with a meter as you raise engine above 2000 RPMs.

If the voltage regulator is not regulating the voltage there could be a bad ground connection; a bad connection at the regulator (the two thin Brown and Green wires under the seat connect to the volatge regulator) or the regulator/rectifier unit itself is bad.



It was Yamaha!

The Headlight, Signal and Ignition circuits already have the Brown wire in common. They're on when the key is turned on and they're spliced and soldered to the main Brown wire from the ignition switch just upstream of the fuse block. The Blue wire for the Tail light circuit runs on a separate wire and it, too, comes on when the key is on.

I replaced the Yamaha fuseblock with a Littlefuse fuseblock from Radio Shack.




I've done enough rewiring and rewrapping of the O.E.M. harness and I don't want to do any more whilst all of the magic purple smoke remains inside of the conductors. As a bonus, the old-school fuseblock fits inside the original Yamaha factory fuse cover. That give me enough room to store a spare TCI underneath the right-hand side cover.

I do not want to walk....


Regards,

Scott

Scott; thanks for the input. No, I wasn't popping fuses or burning out bulbs, but did have gremlins that I couldn't quite explain. Sort of "trial-and-errored" my way to changing the fuse block. When the 28 year old fuse block was off, to where I could better examine it~~was way ready for a change out. Gremlins gone (to my satisfaction), after fuse block replace.

I've soured up on glass fuses over the past few years. Mostly don't like the "clamp-type" that grabs the ends of the fuses~~those type fuse blocks. They seem to not really grab the ends of the fuses proper, after a few years.
Hard to work with. Spade fuse type=very user friendly. Color coded!!! Whut more could ya ask for.

Also, a major help as of late, was a battery replacement. Now, when it's sat overnite, it's at "12.7 volts", which is what it's supposed to be. The battery I replaced had gotten to where it would only be at "12.25", after overnite. I could get it to go, but not cheerful. I get about 3 years out of a battery.

"Spare TCI"; nifty. heh-heh.

[3Phase]

At least now I know where everything goes and that there's no breaks or thin points.

Yes, that's the pretty much the what and why of it right there. I made a schematic and posted it somewhere around here.

but did have gremlins that I couldn't quite explain. Sort of "trial-and-errored" my way to changing the fuse block. When the 28 year old fuse block was off, to where I could better examine it~~was way ready for a change out. Gremlins gone (to my satisfaction), after fuse block replace.

Sorry, was trying to stay on-topic and not hijack the thread but I should have addressed the above to Richard!

I had an elusive, intermittent, electrical problem hit and the fuse block basically crumbled in my hand on the first day of a 3-day weekend -- had to do something and it eliminated a few problems!

"Spare TCI"; nifty. heh-heh.

I kid you not. It's held onto the fuse cover with straps run through the TCI mounting holes and behind the fuse panel. The side cover simply snaps in place.

The Littelfuse fuse block was just going to be temporary until I could get a modern one from TC and lose the quaint, antique, glass tubes. I would have replaced it but the spade fuse blocks are all too tall to allow a spare TCI to fit underneath the side cover and I haven't had one single problem with the new glass fuses or the fuse block.

It's not broke; don't fix it!


Regards,

Scott