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Does this sound like a brake or drivetrain issue to you?
Alas, I do not play guitar. I would like to learn, though. Maybe next summer (this summer being, of course, "buy a motorcycle", "learn to ride a motorcycle", and "learn to fix said motorcycle").
I've got the rear MC pulled apart as much as I can, reservoir, drain plug, and all. All the wires I was using were either too large, too weak (they bent), or both. I'll give the needle a try, I think. In another first, I actually used the tech section article BEFORE asking a question!
I used the wire inside of a garbage bag twist tie..strip off the outer coating and the bare wire was strong enough and the right diameter to go thru the spooge hole...
Well, the garbage tie trick worked- I was able to clear the hole out a little.
My NEXT question- how deep should I be able to get the wire in? It bottomed out after about 1/8 inch. Is this normal, or is there something stuck in there worse than I know?
Looks like you're in cold country .... If you're not too busy with school or skiing or ... perish the thought, work .... ssshhhh, winter is a good time to start playing ... riding and wrenching is limited then too.
79F Stone stocker and former daily driver, sold May '10 now converting for N.O. to cafe style 79SF eventually dismantled for parts 79F Bought almost new in 80, sold for a house 79F The Ernie bike sold to a Navy dude summer 08 79SF Squared-off Special, Vetter/Bates tour pkg., Mikes XS coils, G rear fender and tail light. Sold June 09
Well, the garbage tie trick worked- I was able to clear the hole out a little.
My NEXT question- how deep should I be able to get the wire in? It bottomed out after about 1/8 inch. Is this normal, or is there something stuck in there worse than I know?
You need to get all the insides out of the M/C, then blow brake cleaner thru the hole. Make sure it comes out somewhere else, which is on the other side of where the piston seal sits. That is what relieves the caliper pressure when you release the brake.
79F Stone stocker and former daily driver, sold May '10 now converting for N.O. to cafe style 79SF eventually dismantled for parts 79F Bought almost new in 80, sold for a house 79F The Ernie bike sold to a Navy dude summer 08 79SF Squared-off Special, Vetter/Bates tour pkg., Mikes XS coils, G rear fender and tail light. Sold June 09
Between the spooge hole and frozen-up calipers, I think I solved the problem. Got it all back together and on the bike, did a bit of brake line bleeding (after spending about 15 minutes trying to remember how), and the brakes seem to me working like they should. The wheel FINALLY spins nicely, and the brakes seem as grabby as they can be during a bench test. They also release just as nicely.
Of course, I'll know if I need to re-do anything once I get it out on the road. Which means I need to get it running. Which means I need to tear into the carbs- AGAIN. Thankfully, my replacement float needles just got here today. After spending all my time and energy on the brakes, though, the carbs will have to wait until tomorrow.
I've said it before, I'll say it again- thank you everyone who participated. I would be up a creek without a paddle without this site. Thanks.
79F Stone stocker and former daily driver, sold May '10 now converting for N.O. to cafe style 79SF eventually dismantled for parts 79F Bought almost new in 80, sold for a house 79F The Ernie bike sold to a Navy dude summer 08 79SF Squared-off Special, Vetter/Bates tour pkg., Mikes XS coils, G rear fender and tail light. Sold June 09
once you get it on the road
a good way to see whats going on
is to put a mile or two on it
coast to a stop, without using the brakes
then put your hand on the disks to check for heat
careful they could be hot
if they are too hot to touch, you may have a brake shoe dragging
http://home.securespeed.us/~xswilly/
78E main ride, since birth the "good"
78E Parts, the "bad" fixing up now
78E Parts the "ugly" maybe next year
79F Parts
80G Parts
75 DT 400B enduro
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