Breathing life back into my XS1100E

[RidetoXS]

Ok, I've been asked for more current photos. This thread should (hopefully) document the process of restoring my bike that has been sitting idle for over 15 years.

Back in her prime:



Today:

Had to move stuff just to get at her:







Decade of dust.....



This looks nasty.....view inside the tank



Not a Yamaha trunk, I think...came with the bike.



So, as soon as the Honda V65 is out of the garage (not mine, but I'm selling it nonetheless - long story), I'll pull her out into the open and start going over stuff.

[DiverRay]

Do a search on electralisys(sp?) for the rust in the tank. I used it on a tank, and it works VERY WELL. Looks like you need to pull it out and wash it BEFORE you start the actual work.

[latexeses]

Dittos to DiverRay's post. I had a rusty tank and did the cleaning soda and battery charger clean-up and WOW. I found it hard to believe something so cheap and easy could work so well... Member 3Phase recently cleaned his tank by this method and the results were great as well.

A good going over with a wet rag and some soap and your baby will look pretty fresh!

[RidetoXS]

So, what do you coat the inside of the gas tank with after you de-rust it? Or doesn't it matter?

[Pat Kelly]

Keep it filled with freash gas. Ride it long and often and keep refilling it. This keeps the tank rust-free and you happy because you're riding the bike .
(I coated my E tank(s) with the Caswells tank liner. My LG is rust-free and uncoated....so far)

[RidetoXS]

Ok, kinda thought so.

Been checking various things - brakes are gone, but reservoirs are full. Carbs have some action, but I'm looking for replacements anyway (the PO (that would be me) accidentally drilled out a needle seat in one carb a few years ago trying to clean things - don't ask). Obviously, we need new rubber, and mufflers. Electrical should be ok. I opened up the oil filler cap and peaked inside - looks great, no rust, light coating of oil, so think I'm good there. Haven't pulled a plug yet - biggest fear is a seized piston.

[TopCatGr58]

You said needle seat, did you mean float needle seat?? IF so, those are replaceable, so a new carb isn't necessary. IF you mean a pilot screw or pilot jet hole, that's a different story!? The biggest thing that wears out or gets holes in them are the rubber vacuum slide diaphragms, but if they are in good condition, then just a cleaning and rebuild of carbs will be all that's needed!!

The brake calipers are probably just frozen/corroded in place. OR also the rubber plunger parts in the MC's are damaged? I'd pull the calipers off, then try to pump out the caliper piston with the brake lever, tear the calipers down, clean the piston, rubber square O-ring removing it from caliper body, clean/scrape out corrosion from inside the O-ring groove, etc., reassemble with new brake fluid, and it should be good, do a good bleeding of the lines looking for black particles...the innards of the rubber/vinyl lines breaking down with age. Many folks replace their lines with with SS braided ones, best upgrade to the braking system you can do! The MC's may be alright, but rebuild kits are available for them also!

Okay, pull the plugs, get some Marvel Mystery oil and pour a few ounces down each cylinder, let it sit a day or so, then try to turn the engine...not with the square wrench fitting of the left timing plate, but use the right ALT mounting bolt instead, much stronger. Remember to NOT turn the engine over using the starter or running it with the ALT cover off, will blow oil galley plug out and get gallon of oil over garage floor very quickly!! IF the garage was relatively climate controlled, there's a chance of some light rust forming from moisture getting in thru open valve thru intake or exhaust side, but hopefully just very thin layer, and MMO can help break it down/loosen it up. Can substitute Dexron Tranny fluid for MMO!

Don't assume electrical, take apart and INSPECT and CLEAN ALL connectors, junctions, especially grounds to frame, battery and at middle drive to frame, etc.!
T.C.

[RidetoXS]

Ok, moving slowly due to time constraints, but I aired up the tires nad moved her into the garage proper. Hooked up a booster box to the bat terminals, all lights work ok. Pulled number 1 and 4 plugs, both look fine, and no sign of rust in the cylinders. Things are looking better.....

Opened up the oil filler, oil does not look like the black, sludgy mess I was expecting - actually, it's a nice honey brown. (Did I change it before parking it? I don't remember ) It looks very good, but I'll change it anyway, of course!

Well, next is pulling and electrolysizing the gas tank, and pulling the carbs (she stiill has smooth throttle movement, too! ). Have to find out what seat I drilled out way back, and how much that's going to screw things up.

[oseaghdha]

I had to wake mine up from a 16 year 'sleep'. I think it took me three or four long weekends to get it on the road.
You will want to soak the cylinders with MMO like TC said, or you can use ATF.
New fuel lines, clean out the brakes. I had to get a rebuild kit for the front M/C, the rear was ok after I took it apart and cleaned it. The spooge' holes will need attention. Take all the calipers apart and clean behind the piston seals, change all the fluids. I put in some 30wt crap oil for the first 50 or so miles, then changed it for good oil just to make sure all the dustballs and critters were flushed out.

Take the petcocks apart and clean/refurbish, add fuel filters. Of course the carbs will need a lot of attention.

Once you get it running you will probably start upgrading/replacing stuff.
Fuse Box
Clutch Springs
Brake Lines

Oh, and have a look at the pickup coil wires!

Drop me a line if you need some help, I'm up in Waukesha.