Race bearing woes

[xs11bobber]

I have been tearing the bike down all day. Started around 6am. I was originally just going to clean and change out my new forks, which turned into caliper rebuilding, which turned into race bearing replacement. Being new to bikes I read up on this plenty before attempting, but boy I'm having a hard time. I know all about the dremel and the notch with the chisel. I know about the bead with the welder and it just falls out. I know about the alignment tool bend with a custom "notch" in it to fit the bearing edge. These things are just flat kicking my a$$. I've probably ruined 2 very good craftsman screwdrivers, broke my chisel, head fell off my 1lb hammer, upgraded to the 2lb. sledge and smashed a knuckle.

There has got to be something to make this a little easier. I haven't tried the welding, but the house is only a 60amp service and the welder in the attic needs 100amp.

Is there anything I can do? Please help me. I'm going now to get a new chisel... maybe a few in different sizes.

[bikerphil]

Try to squirt some PB blaster in there and get a long drift that will fit in there. Sometimes it helps to bend the drift to get a good angle. The race really doesn't have to be hit with much force, you just have to find the "sweet" spot. Keep at it, you'll get it. The last two that I had to do, I had to get a bit creative to get those head bearing races out.

[DiverRay]

A Dremel or other type of grinder is all that will work, sorry. You can try getting a cut-off blade for a drill, but I don't think it will turn as fast as needed. I just replaced a set on an '80 Special, and needed to cut both races out of the steering stem.
The bottom bearing on the triple tree CAN be worked up. Start with a chisel, and tap it between the bearing and the bottom of the TT. It should start to work up so you can use a punch on the under side to get it off the stem. Some heat from a propane torch will help, just try to heat the bearing, and keep the heat off the TT as much as possible. I used a water pipe with one end ground flat to install the bearing. You may have to grind down the outside of it as well, because you ONLY want to contact the race, NOT the bearing itself.

[fredintoon]

- - - There has got to be something to make this a little easier. I haven't tried the welding, but the house is only a 60amp service and the welder in the attic needs 100amp. - - -

Hi Josh,
why is the welder in the attic?
FWIW, the amperage quoted on a welding machine is the maximum output amperage at the low voltage the welder puts out. For instance, my Lincoln 180 Amp buzzbox works off a 30 amp 220V outlet. The usual 100Amp (max) welder is a 110V and needs a 20Amp 110V outlet.

[xs11bobber]

I stopped by Sears and picked up a new drift. I didn't have one and I think pops would s#@t a chicken if he saw that I borrowed his drift and bent the hell out of it(he can have the new one). I also got a concrete chisel, 2 different punch type chisels, and 2 different air hammer chisels and picked up a new 1lb also. I think the concrete chisel would be tits if it's strong enough.

I went back at it when I got home and easily got the top out. a little more pounding with a chisel on the dremel cut was all it needed. I got the bottom cut and that was it. I didn't want to pound after dark. So I'm going to get back at it in the AM.

I'm deffintely going to look into that welder info as well. Thing has been in the attic for nearly 14 years because pop always told me that the service to the house wasn't big enough. It's deffintely an old skool welder. I really enjoy welding too. It's going to erk me if I could've been using it all these years. There were so many go-kart projects and ideas back in the day hahaha

[xs11bobber]

The bottom bearing on the triple tree CAN be worked up. Start with a chisel, and tap it between the bearing and the bottom of the TT. It should start to work up so you can use a punch on the under side to get it off the stem. Some heat from a propane torch will help, just try to heat the bearing, and keep the heat off the TT as much as possible. I used a water pipe with one end ground flat to install the bearing. You may have to grind down the outside of it as well, because you ONLY want to contact the race, NOT the bearing itself.

I tap between the bearing and the little metal plate that's on there correct? Or is it between the little metal plate and the TT? I just know she's on there good and needs a LOT of persuading... maybe my BFH isn't big enough.

I think there's going to be a lot of cursing tomorrow

[DiverRay]

To pull it, tap between the little metal plate and the TT. As you have a dremmel, you can also cut the bearings off, and THEN work on getting the race off. Just try not to destroy the "seal" they put under the bearing. That is why I was tapping from underneath. If you don't care about the seal, just cut the race with the dremel and remove with a chisel.

[xs11bobber]

I've been cleaning parts for the majority of the morning, but am about to go for the bottom races and bearing. Is there anywhere I can get the "seal" just in case? I already ordered the Partsnmore head bearing kit and front wheel bearings. They should be here tomorrow... I hope. A lift would be so handy now. Staring up into the steering head with the center stand down and it resting on the rear wheel is a B#$@H. I think I might try taking my dremel and drilling a little bit of the thicker part of the bearing away. Maybe it'll break a little easier. I'll keep you all posted.

[John]

When you finally get the old lower race removed use your Dremmel to cut a notch in the race land inside the steering head, so if the task ever needs to be done again, it will be much easier.

[xs11bobber]

When you finally get the old lower race removed use your Dremmel to cut a notch in the race land inside the steering head, so if the task ever needs to be done again, it will be much easier.

I haven't gotten to it yet (working on the ole' man's bike). I have the flat spots at dead center front and back, are you saying notch those more?

[John]

It has been my experience that there are notches to remove the upper race, but none for the lower, that's why I suggested grinding some for the lower race, just in case the bike lives long enough to ever need another set of bearings.

[xs11bobber]

So to finish things... I got the bearings yesterday from partsnmore.com. A big box for such a little package, but i'm not bitching. right away I threw the races in the freezer soon followed by the lower TT. I did finally figure out my main problem with removing the old races. I was trying to basically cut the old races as vertical as I could. Well, a round wheel in a tight space on a ever so thinckening material was leaving plenty uncut and not allowing it to break with the chisel. A 'flatter' cut from dead bottom to as far top as I could go without removing needed material equaling about 1.5" in length was what I did on the bottom and this allowed more material to be removed in the thicker part of the race. I popped the chisel twice and it was out like nothing. I used the old races to pound the new frozen to my fingers races in. I found the old bottom race inverted worked the best at putting in the bottom. I packed the bearings, then used the old bearing inverted on top of the new to pound it on. I didn't have a pipe, but I had an old headlight ear that actually worked pretty good to seat the bearing. It's a really soft material so I was careful. Then the rest is pretty much history. Thanks for everyone's help