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A Momentary Lapse of Reason!

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  • A Momentary Lapse of Reason!

    Well, I can finally rest this afternoon! If you're having a nice lazy day and have the time to read this NOVEL, please continue along! I'm posting this partly to show that I just don't talk the talk, I occasionally walk the walk!

    Last week I saw a thread by Bigge Al from Greensboro, NC regarding his skipping 2nd gear, being his first bike, lack of $$ and mech experience (like Greg Maz) and so I offered to help him if he wanted to bring it up to my place. Well, he took me up on the offer, and hauled his XJ to my place this Holiday weekend. He had replaced the engine/middle/final drive oils when he got it, had some leaky carbs, used Seafoam which had calmed down the leaking...verified that he didn't have gas in his oil, but was possibly getting only 20 mpg. So..along with the skipping 2nd gear, I figured a carb rebuild and tune would be in order. Okay, a full weekend, plus Friday PM/Night, should be able to get things done and him back on the road home by midday Sunday! He normally works Saturdays, but would have the Holiday Weekend free, so we planned for it. BTW, Bigge Al likes Pink Floyd, so there will be many references to their work.

    We had talked a bit by email planning the supplies and procedures that we would be doing when he got here. I was able order the float valves and replacement clutch springs from MikesXS, along with the YamaBond equivalent sealant. I acquired the other stuff, oil/filter, spark plugs, gasket material, carb and brake cleaner, Synthetic Hypoid and Dexron ATF for fork oil. I had a mini die grinder and an assortment of diamond bits that I was anxious to try out vs. the Dremmel.

    He rolled into town at 4PM Friday with the XJ in the back of his pickup, we got it unloaded and got to work. Pulled the tank, seat, air filter and carbs...I feel for you XJ guys with OEM box! First I showed him the cam chain tensioner and we performed the basic adjustment. Then we proceeded to do a compression test. Got 155-130-135-160. A bit beyond the 10% variance, but attributed it to many factors, cold engine, possibly carboned chambers, see plugs below! Main thing was to prove it had decent comps! Also NOTE that it requires the use of the starter spinning the engine to get these readings, this will play into things later on.



    Then we pulled the valve cover, and checked the clearances. Only found 1 that was just slightly under at .003 for intake. Before I did the calculations I went ahead and used the Motion Pro valve bucket tool (THANKS John/WILDKAT ) and found the shim to be a 285. Then realised that using a 280 would make the clearance a whopping .008, and since we didn't have any replacement shims, we left the slightly close shim in there, but he knows how to replace it now!

    Next, we drained the fluids, engine, middle, final drives. The hex heads in his refill plugs had been rounded/wallered out, he had previously gotten them loosened with the screwdriver/chisel approach, but we needed to replace them. We then pulled the shift cover, clutch cover, mirrors, side covers, left rear turn signal, and also the clutch basket. Then we got the bike flipped over on it's back. Then we saw that the modified welded on mufflers on his OEM 2-1's for each side would not clear the tranny pan, so they had to come off. Then we got the tranny pan off without damaging the gasket, but we found a mysterious washer in it? When I got the clutch basket off, saw that there wasn't a "C/E" ring on the end of the shift fork shaft at the oil pump idler gear? And the "C/E" ring behind the gear was pushed farther inwards towards the engine past the notch?





    We had stopped about 7pm for 30 minutes for a nice home cooked chicken dinner with potato salad. We then removed the countershaft axle bolt, and the bearing cap/cover end from the other end of the countershaft. Then slid
    5th gear out, pulled the shift fork shaft out, let the shift forks drop out of the way, and with just some modest wiggling of the gears, got them out. But it was getting late, so we held off of the gear grinding for the next day. But we went ahead and pulled down the carbs, soaked the jets, emulsion tubes, found the pilot screws were some 5-6 turns OUT , found some black gunk in the right bank of carbs inlet channels, spritzed them thoroughly with cleaner, bench synched, then put them back together with the new float valves. I had bought a 180 piece set of metric nitrile o-rings, but a size that seemed right was too thick for the valve seat seal, finally used a smaller overall diameter, but it had a smaller section thickness that worked, and got them back in. Got the carbs all back together, and went to bed about midnight!

    Saturday, had breakfast, got back to garage at 9am, and started to try to do the grinding on the gears. Even with my spare 10 gal tank along with my 4.5 gallon pancake compressor, it wouldn't provide enough continuous volume of air to effectively drive the grinder more than 20-30 seconds! And the only cylinder shaped grinding stone (white) wasn't holding up very well anyways, and was wearing away way too fast! SO....we decided to make a run for parts, the C/E rings, possibly the K&N 33-2586 that was mentioned in Maximan's substitute filter for XJ's tip, as well as some fresh grinding bits for my trusty Dremmel! Also wanted to try to find some single walled rubber fuel line, he had gotten some that he was told was single walled, but was regular 1/4" ID double walled stuff! Napa didn't even have any, but got the C/E ring clips. Went to LOWES and got the stones, and also some air fitler FOAM that I thougth we could use in place of the badly clogged OEM filter element material.





    We got 2 of these packages, put them across the filter, and cut off the ends, and used the cut off for the open middle section. Then used some gasket red RTV to seal it to the frame. Here's "AL" being attacked by the sharp metal screen edges of the filter frame!!


    Spent about 1 hour on this shopping spree, got back and got to work! I got the gears ground in about an hour, ALL 4, 2nd, 5th, and 1st and 4th since we were in there and they also showed some signs of wear, skipping wasn't too far away! Stopped for 15 minutes for a sandwich break. Got the gears all cleaned up, oiled and back into the engine with a minimal battle with the forks, the shift shaft with proper new C/E clips, found where that washer needed to go, and then "AL" mentioned that it seemed like he didn't have a
    5th gear when riding! A closer look at the shift drum revealed the bent tang and missing 5th gear dowel that wasn't found in the oil pan!

    Fortunately I was able to canabalize a parts engine for the dowel and unbent plate! Pulled clutch basket apart, all frictions miked to about 2.95 or so, well beyond the 2.8 minimum(only 30K on the Odometer), springs measured to just within spec, but were possibly 25 years old, so replaced with the new almost 2mm longer MikesXS springs! Just deglazed the steels, a couple had some blue friction burn markings. Got the clutch basket back in just fine, making sure the gears engaged the oil pump idler gear. A trick to verify this is to use a mirror to peak around behind the basket!



    We stopped for a great 4th of July dinner, SWMBO cooked some fine NY Strip steaks, Garlic mashed potatos, and a healthy garden salad!

    "AL" made a run to the auto store for the replacement middle/final drive refill plug bolts/nylon washers. I pulled the rear wheel and final drive off, cleaned and regreased the wheel and drive splines, and put it back together. We also bled all of the brake lines, topped off the MC's. The rear brake pedal didn't want to return, found the big return spring had come undone from it's retaining position and was bent!

    So...got the clutch and shift covers and tranny pans back on. Flipped the bike back over, and proceeded to work on the FUSEBLOCK, classic broken clips, spliced in single glass fuseholders. "AL" drained the fork tubes and got some yucky grey fluid out! Pulled the fork caps to be able to refill. When putting the drain bolts back in, one broke off in the tube! Was actually able to drill it and use an easy out to get it. Used a spare metric screw with an O-ring to seal it. Was able to get the caps back on fairly easily since jacking up the front end to release tension. Refilled all fluids, put the carbs back on with OEM box, new foam air filter, new NGK plugs, hooked up portable synching fuel tank, reconnected charged up battery, and turned key, hit the starter, and engine cranked, popped to life for second and then died!

    Then wouldn't crank! Kept hitting starter button, no go, just pilot box lights flickered a little, but nothing! We had previously repaired the clutch interlock switch...wire had gotten pulled from switch. Hooked up jumper box with it on the starter side of the solenoid, and applied power and it cranked and started and kept running. So we proceeded to perform the vac. synch utilizing the YICS tool, BTW, the 5/32" vac hose works, the 3/8" fuel line was too wide! I then thought that since the solenoid had worked before, and quit, and we had not done anything else, that it must have gone bad, took one off of parts bikes, wired it in, but it also didn't work. Checked the continuity of the blue/white wire to the ground/starter button, it was good. Then checked the red/white wire and was NOT getting 12 volts!?

    Again, it was now midnight, and "Time" to rest, the brain was fried, and I felt like we had hit "Another Brick in the Wall"! It was at this time that I thought of Randy or 3Phase/Scott..electrical Gurus..."Wish you were Here", to help me diagnose this beast! I reviewed the XJ wiring diagram on my way to bed.

    Sunday Morning, 9am, started to troubleshoot. Took the alleged bad solenoid, hooked the red/white and blue/white wires to my booster box, and got the required click/click sound, it was actually good! Put it back in. Then pulled the connectors for the side stand switch connecting all 3 wires together, still nothing. Pulled the clutch switch connector, same! Pulled the tipover switch connector and still nada. This was when Al mentioned that he had had an intermittent starting problem before. The neutral light was on. So....then took a jumper wire to provide 12 volts to solenoid red/white wire, and it cranked with the starter button just fine. SO....since time was not on our side, and "AL" wasn't worried about the safety interlocks, we elected to do the down and dirty quick fix and just spliced the aux terminal power supply that we hadn't run thru the fuseblock into the solenoid switch, he always checks to make sure it's in neutral before starting anyways, and it fired up. Rolled it out, and took it for a test run up and down the neighborhood, shifted just great thru all 5 gears. I hadn't had a chance to ride it before, but "AL" said after his test run that it definitely had more power, pep, and throttle response than before. You could say that it would "Run Like hell".

    We got it loaded into his truck and he was on the road going back home by 1pm, and I got word that he made it by 6pm safely! I took my shower, did the weekly shopping, and have been sitting here resting and composing this report for the last few hours while watching TV!

    Here's hoping the rest of you had a restful and enjoyable Holiday Weekend. Mine was a bit busy, but helping a fellow Xsive get his bike into proper running order was also very rewarding.
    T. C. Gresham
    81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
    79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
    History shows again and again,
    How nature points out the folly of men!

  • #2
    Well done, TC. Sounds like a pretty good week's worth of work, even if you did pound it out in a weekend!
    Ken Talbot

    Comment


    • #3
      Good job helping out a friend It took me a lot more than a 3 day weekend to do my tranny fix!

      You mentioned that you changed the clutch springs with new ones from MikesXS. Did you use the heavt duty ones Part #39-6506? I'm curious because mine need to be replaced soon.
      Ray

      '79 XS1100 Special - An XS Odyssey <<-- Click it, you know you want to!
      '07 FJR1300

      Comment


      • #4
        Hey Silent,

        Yes, those are the only clutch springs they offer, and after doing a little research first, found that the later model 650's used the same part # as the XS11's, and so I felt confident that they would work just fine. The clutch lever pull was pretty beefy, and as I stated, they measured almost 2mm longer than spec!

        Ken, yep, it did feel like a week's worth of stuff, now I get to go to work Monday and REST!
        T. C. Gresham
        81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
        79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
        History shows again and again,
        How nature points out the folly of men!

        Comment


        • #5
          Awesome work TC. Now I feel lazy!. All I did was replace my fork cover gasket yesterday, and replaced a fuse box for another memebr today.
          Life is what happens while your planning everything else!

          When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.

          81 XS1100 Special - Humpty Dumpty
          80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection


          Previously owned
          93 GSX600F
          80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
          81 XS1100 Special
          81 CB750 C
          80 CB750 C
          78 XS750

          Comment


          • #6
            Great job helping out Al as you did. Well done!

            Also, thought I'd let you know I got my new fuse box you sent me installed on the XJ a few weeks ago. It all went together well behind the cover, looks great, and that's one less future worry! Thanks, again T.C.

            Now go get some much needed rest! LOL
            '82 XJ1100J Maxim (has been sold.)

            '79 F "Time Machine"... oh yeah, Baby.... (Sold back to Maximan)

            2011 Kaw Concours 14 ABS

            In the warden's words from Cool Hand Luke;
            "What we have here is a failure to communicate."

            Comment


            • #7
              And the "C/E" ring behind the gear was pushed farther inwards towards the engine past the notch?
              Which would seem to indicate that his pin is broken off on that shaft also? It would have to go past that keeper pin to be able to get to that notch..


              Tod
              Try your hardest to be the kind of person your dog thinks you are.

              You can live to be 100, as long as you give up everything that would make you want to live to be 100!

              Current bikes:
              '06 Suzuki DR650
              *'82 XJ1100 with the 1179 kit. "Mad Maxim"
              '82 XJ1100 Completely stock fixer-upper
              '82 XJ1100 Bagger fixer-upper
              '82 XJ1100 Motor/frame and lots of boxes of parts
              '82 XJ1100 Parts bike
              '81 XS1100 Special
              '81 YZ250
              '80 XS850 Special
              '80 XR100
              *Crashed/Totalled, still own

              Comment


              • #8
                TC is the Man!

                I will attest to TC's hands on approach...He does indeed practice what he preaches...Its been 11 months now since we had my Max flipped in your garage so those pics of Al's look quite familiar...I certainly hope you had cooler weather this time around
                So now Al has joined me in the distinction of having one of the alltime great Gurus' work on the endemic tranny syndrome and other assorted maladies...TC I am eternally grateful..(on knees bowing)....
                1980 XS650G Special-Two
                1993 Honda ST1100

                Comment


                • #9
                  Wow! is all I have to say!
                  I did attempt to adjust my idle mix screws to the sweet spot and resync.
                  Tore into the wiring harness, found the diode (it looked terrible) replaced it with what I thought was one from Radio Shack that would work. It didn't.) so I made a jumper and bypassed the headlight relay and unhacked my headlight hack. That was Friday, my paid holiday.
                  Then I selfishly celebrated the Fourth all day with the kids and grandson.
                  Went to church, had lunch with some friends and went to another party.
                  TC, you are a great friend to all XS'ives!
                  I did meet a fellow '79 XS1100 Standard owner who is not a member of the board. I promptly let him know he needed to be on here. He has rebuilt a bunch of bikes but had a beautiful bike at the big neighborhood fireworks show. Said the XS11 was by far his favorite bike ever.
                  Great report TC!
                  Bothell, WA
                  1980 XS1100SG

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Good work, TC ...

                    you ARE the bomb-schnizzle !!

                    I gotta' thank you also for helpin' to keep the NC XScessives on the road. I need some guys to hang out with here and G-boro is only an hour. Missin' my old Lower California buds, 3Phase, Planedick, Garth, Mike and Tom.... did I miss anybody?
                    80G Mini-bagger
                    VM33 Smooth bores, Pods, 4/1 Supertrapp, SS brake lines, fork brace

                    Past XS11s

                    79F Stone stocker and former daily driver, sold May '10 now converting for N.O. to cafe style
                    79SF eventually dismantled for parts
                    79F Bought almost new in 80, sold for a house
                    79F The Ernie bike sold to a Navy dude summer 08
                    79SF Squared-off Special, Vetter/Bates tour pkg., Mikes XS coils, G rear fender and tail light. Sold June 09

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Great job T.C. helping a fellow XS'er! That is alot of work done in a short time! One piece of advice for the future pertaining to R&R of any front forks on a motorcycle. I realize that alot of those here just drain and refill with new fliud, that fluid most of the time being ATF(DextronII or III). With MANY years of racing motocross, ATF is a band-aid or substitute when you don't have proper fork oil availible. This may attribute to many here going to different fork springs. The properties of ATF do NOT provide the proper dampining through those tiny orfices. These orfices also with many years of having oil pass through them is what creates heat from friction, yes there is friction from oil forced through a small orfice at a high rate of speed, as I can attest to front forks being very hot after a moto. It is not as exaggerated on our street bikes, but still exist. This friction also causes those tiny orfices to slighty enlarge from there original size. The cure for this on our XS'es and other older street bikes is to go to a heavier rating FORK oil, rather than changing the fork springs. If the resting spring height is even somwhere close to to original height, the stock springs will work just fine by design to the limitations of what these machines were capable of as far as handleing. May not always be the case, but my Venturer1100, having been factory full dresser all its life and 75,000 miles on chassis handles superbly well using the best fork oil on the market(Silcolene) 15w with 3-5lbs. in air forks no matter what the load. Have had this bike since new with only having to replace fork seals once(2yrs. ago) and at that time went to the heavier fork oil, getting back the proper dampening that it originally had. Tkats fork brace is bar-none the cheapest and best handling improvement that can be made on our XS's, and he deserves alot more credit than he recieves for his dedication to these awesome classic machines. Just my input and information based on many years of motocross racing and dealing with setting up front and rear suspensions that are left in stock form on motocross bikes that work in way more extreme conditions. Another key to long fork seal life is use OEM seals on ANY bike, that also based on mine and others with a long history of seeing suspensions used in extreme and punishable conditions.
                      81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Hey Tod,

                        After reading the other shift shaft thread, I made sure that the pin was in place, and it was. I was fairly fatigued last night, and my CRS may be acting up, I just remember that the "C" ring was out of the groove, and BENT, the shift shaft can move a little sideways, and the "C" ring was just a few mm's towards the pin, the shaft moving outwards and the pin also moving outwards out of the slot. This was the "C" clip just behind the oil pump idler gear which is proximal to the pin, not the shift pawl end which is ofc at the other end of the shaft. Yes, IF the inner "C" clip was closer to the engine on the pawl end, then it would have indicated the movement of the shaft towards the shifter side, and most surely would have broken off the pin, looks like he/we got lucky in that respect.

                        Motoman, I did a modest search on the NET for the use of ATF fluid(Castrol Synthetic Blend) for fork oil, it being very low in foaming/bubbling action, and that it's weight was listed as being very close to the 10 wt real fork oil. Also, saw that DiverRay uses it, and felt if it was good enough for him(Certified Mechanic), then I felt it would be good enough for me and AL. I can definitely understand the need and use of REAL fork oil for competition motocross type fork action, but with the modest action of our street machines, and that he also had air shock capabilities, and that a budget substitute was desired, decided to go with the ATF. We do appreciate your knowledge and expertise in this area, and I'm sure we'll take it under advisement. We may try out the ATF and compare the dampening affects on our rides for ourselves.

                        I know that I put on 4" over length front forks, and used the OEM springs, having to put in a 4" spacer, and used OEM seals and REAL FORK OIL, and still experienced some diving action under braking, even with 15 wt oil. My bike has an estimated 60K miles on the lower fork components, so perhaps my dampening holes have enlarged some? I have air shock capabilities, but that seemed to make the ride too harsh. I have thought to go with Progressive springs, but since they are made for Standards, and regular specials need a 4" spacer, then I will need an 8" spacer! But just like clutch springs, I'm sure that fork springs also loose their SPRING with age and stress under 25 years of use.

                        Yeah, there were a few more things that I would have liked to do, like some polishing of many of the covers, and he'll need to put on a new front tire soon, but lack of time and finances limited what we could do. But he did learn a few things during the procedures, and will be able to do the rest easily himself. I sent him home with a copy of the XJ manual. Thanks for the comments.

                        Any other suggestions on the lack of power to the starter solenoid trigger wire? I figured the starter safety cutout relay may have been going bad, due to it's intermittent behaviour, and I think we tested all of the safety interlocks, the clutch, sidestand, tipover? Oh well, it starts NOW!
                        T.C.
                        T. C. Gresham
                        81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
                        79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
                        History shows again and again,
                        How nature points out the folly of men!

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          nice work

                          Hey TC
                          Nice work,
                          I also use atf for fork oil, my bikes naked.
                          Did you do the 2nd gear washer swap?
                          I tried to do it on mine, but couldnt get the shaft back in.
                          pete


                          new owner of
                          08 gen2 hayabusa


                          former owner
                          1981 xs1100 RH (aus) (5N5)
                          zrx carbs
                          18mm float height
                          145 main jets
                          38 pilots
                          slide needle shimmed .5mm washer
                          fitted with v/stax and uni pod filters

                          [url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3pA8dwxmAVA&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL[/url]

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            TC,

                            Never entered my mind that you were a bench warmer who was content to stay on the sidelines. I just knew you had Game and when the moment came you would share those skills.

                            Congrats on getting the task done with both time and budget constraints.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Well done TC, Well done!
                              The Old Tamer
                              _________________________
                              1979 XS1100SF (The Fire Dragon)
                              1982 650 Maxim (The Little Dragon)
                              another '82 650 Maxim (Parts Dragon)
                              1981 XS1100SH (The Black Dragon)

                              If there are more than three bolts holding it on there, it is most likely a very important part!

                              Comment

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