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  • final drive mod...

    What exactly is this modification......have seen it mentioned several times, but have no clue as to what it is.......
    '81H (my first XS ) "Grey Ghost"
    Stock Pilots/ 110 mains (to change)
    4:1 Jardine w/ headerwrap
    Windjammer(wiring issues)
    SonyMarine unit for Ipod/Polk Speakers
    New paint/brakes to come!!
    ===============
    '80G FrankenBike (parts bike)
    ===============
    '80G to fix "BlackSunshine"
    Stock Pilots/125 mains
    Pod filters; 4:1 Kerker??
    SS Brake lines w/ new M/C's
    LED Brake Lite
    Needs paint....

    It is better to be thought a fool than to open ones mouth and remove all doubt....

  • #2
    It is the process of modifying the final drive from an XS750/XS850 to fit the XS/XJ1100 with the intent of either better fuel economy and/or greater top speed.

    details here : http://www.xs11.com/xs11-info/tech-t...-6th-gear.html
    K. Johnson
    -1978 XS750SF - brought back from the dead with carb
    triple clean and boots
    -1982 XJ1100J - brought back from the dead by
    replacing motor after throwing #4 rod
    -1985 XJ750XN - shim job, oil change, ride. not bad for
    $500 including new rear tire.

    Comment


    • #3
      Yes, KJohnson is correct. Only thing I might add to help you understand would be the 750-850 FD's are taller geared than the 1100 FD. So RPM's drop somewhere around 800 rpm less once the swap's done. (It's almost like adding a 6th gear to the tranny.)

      Some say they see improvements in MPG, others say they don't... but almost all say they're glad they did the swap.

      It was thought up by a fellow member here... XSChop, then broken down and explained in detail by another member, Maximan.

      Best of luck in your endeavours...
      Bob
      '82 XJ1100J Maxim (has been sold.)

      '79 F "Time Machine"... oh yeah, Baby.... (Sold back to Maximan)

      2011 Kaw Concours 14 ABS

      In the warden's words from Cool Hand Luke;
      "What we have here is a failure to communicate."

      Comment


      • #4
        My reason for doing it was neither of those. Though better fuel mileage would have been nice.. I didn't get any better. What I did get that I wanted was a drop of @ 800 rpm at cruising speeds of @ 70mph. The bike always seemed like it was winding up too high for me and I was constantly trying to up-shift into another gear even though I was already in 5th.

        Tod
        Try your hardest to be the kind of person your dog thinks you are.

        You can live to be 100, as long as you give up everything that would make you want to live to be 100!

        Current bikes:
        '06 Suzuki DR650
        *'82 XJ1100 with the 1179 kit. "Mad Maxim"
        '82 XJ1100 Completely stock fixer-upper
        '82 XJ1100 Bagger fixer-upper
        '82 XJ1100 Motor/frame and lots of boxes of parts
        '82 XJ1100 Parts bike
        '81 XS1100 Special
        '81 YZ250
        '80 XS850 Special
        '80 XR100
        *Crashed/Totalled, still own

        Comment


        • #5
          I found with the swap, that I get the best mileage if I avoid 5th gear as much as possible. Of course, in the straights on slabs 70mph in 5th is about my average cruising speed. But between 50mph and 70mph I avoid 5th and the mileage jumps up. The engine seems to like the 4500-5500 rpm range, it just breathes better I guess. Some techno-guru here will probably have a long-winded explanation with charts and graphs and 8X10 glossys with writing on the back to expalin each one, and maybe even a dyno chart, but all I know is it works for me. YMMV.

          Comment


          • #6
            The carbs transition from pilot jets to main jet around 4200 RPM (about halfway to redline)
            Pat Kelly
            <p-lkelly@sbcglobal.net>

            1978 XS1100E (The Force)
            1980 XS1100LG (The Dark Side)
            2007 Dodge Ram 2500 quad-cab long-bed (Wifes ride)
            1999 Suburban (The Ship)
            1994 Dodge Spirit (Son #1)
            1968 F100 (Valentine)

            "No one is totally useless. They can always be used as a bad example"

            Comment


            • #7
              ok...

              Just to throw a silly question in the mix.
              the standards and the specials have the same final drive assembly... right?

              so this procedure would be the same on my special.

              Thank.

              Webs
              1979 XS1100SF Special.78 E motor/carbs, Jardine 4-2 exhaust, XS Green coils, Corbin seat, S.S. Brake lines, Hard cases, Heated grips.

              2012 FJR1300 Gen 2. Heli bar risers, R-gaza crash bars, mccruise cruise control.

              (2)2008 WR250R. Because kids outgrew others.

              2007 Suzuki V-Strom 1000. (Just added 2024) pre-crashed.

              1975 Kawasaki S1 250. My first bike. Still have it. NO I'm not selling it!!

              Most bike problems are caused by a loose nut connecting the handlebars and the seat!!

              Comment


              • #8
                wow... that post was poorly written!!!

                lets try this again...

                why are we swapping out the entire housing?
                are the ring and pinion different(other then gear ratio).

                it just seems more prudent to swap out the gears like you would on any other vehicle.
                BUT!!, I've never torn down the drive on this bike to see how complicated the guts are.

                if someone know the answer please let me know

                Thanks.

                Webs
                1979 XS1100SF Special.78 E motor/carbs, Jardine 4-2 exhaust, XS Green coils, Corbin seat, S.S. Brake lines, Hard cases, Heated grips.

                2012 FJR1300 Gen 2. Heli bar risers, R-gaza crash bars, mccruise cruise control.

                (2)2008 WR250R. Because kids outgrew others.

                2007 Suzuki V-Strom 1000. (Just added 2024) pre-crashed.

                1975 Kawasaki S1 250. My first bike. Still have it. NO I'm not selling it!!

                Most bike problems are caused by a loose nut connecting the handlebars and the seat!!

                Comment


                • #9
                  I did my special and used a generic 750 rear with no problems. The one thing I woudl pay attention to is the pinion nut. It's been a couple of years since I did it but I recall removing it to put the washer in to block off the hole the 750 uses for lubrication and the 11 does not. I do beleive it does matter how much you tightent that nut back down. I also beleive the manual covers that. But i recall someone in one of the early conversions did not tighten it adequately and it ended up coming loose and lost a tooth or two on the gear. I'm not sure on these bikes but overtightening a nut on a pinion shaft can cause issues also do to gear alignment.

                  Or I could be totally full of ****. But I've probably put 15000 miles on mine since then and love it. I honestly can't say if the mpg is better or not at this point, the coil change seams to of been better for that, but being able to leisurely cruise anywhere from 70 to 90 mph without the bike sounding like it's all the way wrapped out is great.
                  79 XS11 special

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    why are we swapping out the entire housing?
                    are the ring and pinion different(other then gear ratio).

                    it just seems more prudent to swap out the gears like you would on any other vehicle.
                    It's a lot less work to just swap out the entire housing. The gears would probably swap, I don't know for sure, but why tear apart two housings when you don't need to.
                    79 F full cruiser, stainless brake lines, spade fuses, Accel coils, modded air box w/larger velocity stacks, 750 FD.
                    79 SF parts bike.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      IMHO Red Bandit has it. The housings are identical in size shape, layout....etc. And in order to tear one down, it has to be completely removed from the bike. To use the 750 drive, you simply remove the pinion nut, add sealant and washer, replace nut properly torqued, add a spacer to the drive shaft, install.

                      Seems ALOT simpler than tearing down the drives and swapping gears around. And honestly that would be out of the comfort zone at least for alot of folks, again, IMHO.
                      Life is what happens while your planning everything else!

                      When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.

                      81 XS1100 Special - Humpty Dumpty
                      80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection


                      Previously owned
                      93 GSX600F
                      80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
                      81 XS1100 Special
                      81 CB750 C
                      80 CB750 C
                      78 XS750

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by MindWebs View Post
                        lets try this again...

                        why are we swapping out the entire housing?
                        are the ring and pinion different(other then gear ratio).

                        it just seems more prudent to swap out the gears like you would on any other vehicle.
                        BUT!!, I've never torn down the drive on this bike to see how complicated the guts are.

                        if someone know the answer please let me know

                        Thanks.

                        Webs
                        I know enough about setting gears up to know I don't like to do it for fun.
                        The gears are custom fit to the housing, and each other, with different shims. Engagement, backlash, preload all need to be set. By using the entire housing, you don't need to fuss with it. Almost plug-n-play. I could switch it back in an hour an go to the drag strip, or something.

                        Besides which, you aren't going to find just the gears. You'll end up buying the whole unit anyway.
                        XS1100SF
                        XS1100F

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          And, IIRC, the gears will NOT swap between housings! You also have the problem with the spline difference between the 750/850 and the XS1100 pinion shaft. That is why you need to block the two oil holes in the 750 FD, as the 1100 coupler will NOT fit.
                          The swap is a great thing for the bike, but I notice I drop to 4th a lot more to pass going up hill.
                          Ray Matteis
                          KE6NHG
                          XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
                          XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I'm running a 850 drive in hilly, twisty slow-driving country. Pulling 48 mpg on liesurely cruises through the coast range. 4th gear now produces the same rpms at 60 as 5th gear used to. 5th gear dropped to 3450 from 4000. It is like an extra top gear. Strangely enough, although 1st gear is taller, it's no problem for the bike. Bolt on and GO!
                            1980 XS 11 Special: The King of Kong, 9th wonder of the world. Pacifico fairing, chopped shield, Yamaha hard bags, Diamond seat, T-Kat fork brace, XJ top end, YICS Eliminator, '80 carbs from Spyder Cycle Works, K&N Air filter, Fuse block, stainless steel valves & reg/rect from Oregon MC Parts. Raptor CCT, XJ air shocks, 850 FD, Sportster mufflers, Standard handle bar, Tusk Bar Risers, SS braided brake lines. Cat Eye speedometer. HID projector beam headlight, LED running lights.

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