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  • how bad did I screw up?

    I broke the float post but it broke even with the pin seat. Float seems tight, but still a littlr worried. See pics if they actually work.



    good posts:




    Bad post:



    Misc pics:








    Is this gonna stay together or cause a nightmare??

    p.s. how do you upsize an image? sorry about the small pics
    Last edited by gk45241; 06-28-2009, 07:48 PM.
    Gary King
    79 xs 1100 special/ standard front end
    bobbed with love.

  • #2
    not good.....

    it's been done before, by many others...

    some say jb weld it, some say have it brazed back on.

    on mine i took a sander and "ground" the cast leg down till it was big enough
    for a metric bolt.

    then drill and tap the casting run your bolt in measure for the hole you'll have to drill in the bolt for your float pin, find the right size bit for the pin hole, don't make it tight, but it can't be sloppy either.

    then cut the head off the bolt and depending on what diameter bolt you went
    with, you may have to "shave" the side of the bolt a bit for clearence on the float.

    just for future reference to anyone, when the float bowls are on, the pin can't
    move. so there in no point in pushing the pins in "tight".

    hope this helps.

    Webs
    1979 XS1100SF Special.78 E motor/carbs, Jardine 4-2 exhaust, XS Green coils, Corbin seat, S.S. Brake lines, Hard cases, Heated grips.

    2012 FJR1300 Gen 2. Heli bar risers, R-gaza crash bars, mccruise cruise control.

    (2)2008 WR250R. Because kids outgrew others.

    2007 Suzuki V-Strom 1000. (Just added 2024) pre-crashed.

    1975 Kawasaki S1 250. My first bike. Still have it. NO I'm not selling it!!

    Most bike problems are caused by a loose nut connecting the handlebars and the seat!!

    Comment


    • #3
      I've also read of people drilling a small hole in the remaining part of the post and then using a small piece of wire to hold the float pin down on the remaining post. If you do a search I'm sure you'll find a million ways to fix it...
      1979 xs1100 Special -
      Stock air box/K&N Filter, MAC 4-2 exhaust, Bad-Boy Air horn, TC fuse box, Windshield, Soft bags, Vetter Fairing, Blinkers->Run/Turn/Brake Lights, Headlight Modulator, hard wire GPS power

      Short Stack - 1981 xs1100 Standard - lowered for SWMBO.

      Originally posted by fredintoon
      Goes like a train, corners like a cow, shifts like a Russian tractor, drinks like a fish, you are gonna love it.
      My Bike:
      [link is broken]

      Comment


      • #4
        When I broke mine I "glued" it back on with JBWeld. Has been doing fine since.

        Darrell
        Darrell
        78E
        80G project
        06FJR

        Comment


        • #5
          yep... but

          JB weld does work!

          BUT!!! if you use seafoam, or yellow "heat"(methenol) or other cleaners
          or performance enhancers, it WILL eat the JB weld. and you'll be back to
          problems again...

          that is the only reason i caution you aginst it.
          other then that it will work, and it's a good product.

          it's your baby, do what you think best.
          1979 XS1100SF Special.78 E motor/carbs, Jardine 4-2 exhaust, XS Green coils, Corbin seat, S.S. Brake lines, Hard cases, Heated grips.

          2012 FJR1300 Gen 2. Heli bar risers, R-gaza crash bars, mccruise cruise control.

          (2)2008 WR250R. Because kids outgrew others.

          2007 Suzuki V-Strom 1000. (Just added 2024) pre-crashed.

          1975 Kawasaki S1 250. My first bike. Still have it. NO I'm not selling it!!

          Most bike problems are caused by a loose nut connecting the handlebars and the seat!!

          Comment


          • #6
            I've also read of people drilling a small hole in the remaining part of the post and then using a small piece of wire to hold the float pin down on the remaining post. If you do a search I'm sure you'll find a million ways to fix it...
            I have one broken post (courtesy of the PO) that was repaired with the tie wire method. It was like that when I bought the bike and it's held up great.
            I know this, because Tyler knows this.

            1980 SG
            3J6 003509
            Kerker 4-1 (sans baffles)
            Fuse Block Upgrade
            Mike's XS Green Coils
            Pods w/Homemade Velocity Stacks

            Comment


            • #7
              I've had one broken post in the #4 carb for 5 yrs with no problems. Mine was also broke at the hole, the hole cleaved in half so I was left with a nice half-moon seat for the pin. If you install the pin with the head end on the good post, it will stay put

              Comment


              • #8
                If it's the right post (rear view when on the bike) that's broken, you can leave it alone no problem. If it's the left post, that is the one that stops the float from dropping down. It will cause the float to drop down to far and bind with the needle and cause a flood.
                79 F full cruiser, stainless brake lines, spade fuses, Accel coils, modded air box w/larger velocity stacks, 750 FD.
                79 SF parts bike.

                Comment


                • #9
                  one of my post were broke i drilled a hole and used a file to knirl a roll pin and tapped the post back on the roll pin u cant pull it apart if you tried

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Experiment

                    You might try to finish my experiment.
                    Nubee

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Wire method

                      I 've used the wire method and works just fine. Which carb did you break? I have a parts set that I used the #2 carb to replace the one I broke and still have the #2 carb I repaired. If you can't fix let me know, I might have the one you need. If you decide to replace the carb, you may as well order the butterfly seals and replace them.JAT
                      78 XS1100E Standard
                      Coca Cola Red
                      Hooker Headers

                      http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/p...m/DSC00580.jpg

                      1979 XS1100 Special
                      http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/p...m/DSC00612.jpg

                      1980 XS Standard
                      http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/p...m/DSC01137.jpg

                      2006 Roadstar Warrior
                      http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/p...um/warrior.jpg

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Use epoxy

                        I tried JB weld and it does not work for me. THe post became weak. The 5 minute JB weld does not hold up. Maybe the long cure JB weld does. Anyway, I used epoxy, two part, putty and it does fine. I also applied clear nail polish over the epoxy just to give it more gas resistance. I would suggest if you use JB weld, use it without putting the carbs back on the bike. Fill the bowls with gas overnight with a hose attached to the inlet. let set and check after a day or so. The JB weld I used become soft and gummy overnight........good luck, Mike
                        mike
                        1982 xj1100 maxim
                        1981 venture bagger
                        1999 Kawi Nomad 1500 greenie
                        1959 wife

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          There's another product called quicksteel or quickaluminum, it's a 2 part putty that you knead together, then mold it around the broken base and broken post, it sets up in a few hours, and can then be filed, sanded, etc. There's little room around the base of the float post and where the float bowl comes down against it, but I was able to use this and it's held quite well for a few years now. I, too, had used JB Weld, but found it had gotten soft and lost it's hold, but I also use Seafoam as well.
                          T.C.
                          T. C. Gresham
                          81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
                          79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
                          History shows again and again,
                          How nature points out the folly of men!

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I would use MindWebs method. I have seen it and it looks to be the best solution that I have ever seen. May be just a little bit more work than gluing it together but it is something that will not let you down on the road somewhere.
                            The Old Tamer
                            _________________________
                            1979 XS1100SF (The Fire Dragon)
                            1982 650 Maxim (The Little Dragon)
                            another '82 650 Maxim (Parts Dragon)
                            1981 XS1100SH (The Black Dragon)

                            If there are more than three bolts holding it on there, it is most likely a very important part!

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